H40 leaking gas

#61
Cowboy when you unbolted the stator plate with the ignition coil did you re-set the ignition timing as HavasuDave mentioned? Otherwise it will never run right...it's not good enough to just set the point gap. To do this you will need the special Tecumseh indiator tool that screws in the oplug hole.... or you will need to remove the cylinder head.

This would be a good time to change the gasket and re-torque the head.:thumbsup:


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capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#62
Cowboy when you unbolted the stator plate with the ignition coil did you re-set the ignition timing as HavasuDave mentioned? Otherwise it will never run right...it's not good enough to just set the point gap. To do this you will need the special Tecumseh indiator tool that screws in the oplug hole.... or you will need to remove the cylinder head.

This would be a good time to change the gasket and re-torque the head.:thumbsup:


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I did not. Thanks for the reminder.

Tecumseh engines are new to me. I've always worked on Briggs and have been fortunate enough to not have to set timing on anything.

Are you referring to the Tecumseh Dial Indicator, part number 670241? If so, I don't have one. A quick look on Ebay shows they're fairly expensive ($60 or so). Is there a replacement or alternative tool that can be used? I'm not making any money on this and having a tool that I'll use 3-4 times in my life doesn't necessitate the expense.

EDIT: I just watched a video explaining how to do this with housing open so I don't need to buy the tool. I'm planning on cleaning the engine inside and out anyway. I'll just do it manually before I reassemble.
 
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bikebudy

Banned - Must pay $500
#63
Capgun, May I say I'm impressed with the gun-hoe attitude of not giving up.

You did a Master job of cleaning up the Coil and points assembly :bowdown:

" I swear I think I saw a puff of smoke out the side of the block "

You may have seen a puff from a blown or loose head gasket ? I would inspect that. Also be sure all is good at the carb mount and gasket.

I think you are doing a great job, keep up the good work. :thumbsup:
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#64
Capgun, May I say I'm impressed with the gun-hoe attitude of not giving up.

You did a Master job of cleaning up the Coil and points assembly :bowdown:

" I swear I think I saw a puff of smoke out the side of the block "

You may have seen a puff from a blown or loose head gasket ? I would inspect that. Also be sure all is good at the carb mount and gasket.

I think you are doing a great job, keep up the good work. :thumbsup:
Thanks.

I ordered a set of gaskets last night. I'm going to pull it apart from top to bottom and clean everything as I reassemble it. The fins on the block are gummed up from years of use and abuse and from all the times it's been painted over it's 35 year lifespan, so it really needs it anyway.

I guess when I started the restoration, I wasn't counting on having so much time wrapped up in the engine, but that's life. I've learned some things and it should make the next project that much easier.
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#66
Hey Capgun, if you want, I'll loan you my Tecumseh timing dial indicator, as long as you send it back.
That's mighty generous and trustworthy of you, but I'm going to set it when I pull the motor apart. There are ticks on the gearing that mark correct timing. If for some reason I can't find them or I have trouble with it, I might take you up on your offer then.

Thanks
 
#67
That's mighty generous and trustworthy of you, but I'm going to set it when I pull the motor apart. There are ticks on the gearing that mark correct timing. If for some reason I can't find them or I have trouble with it, I might take you up on your offer then.

Thanks
A lot of people here have helped me out, just paying it forward.

Not the cam timing, the ignition timing. After you get TDC, you set points at .020 gap. Then you move the piston backwards to .050 piston depth on an H40. You then move the magneto assembly back and forth until the points just make, using an ohm meter to verify. (Coil wire disconnected of course, since the ignition system needs to be electrically isolated)

The only other way to do it, is with a standard depth gauge or dial indicator fixed on the block, taking into account the head gasket depth.
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#68
Ahh, I see. I've got some standard depth gauges here. I'll give it a shot that way. I've printed out the manual and put it into a binder so I'll have it handy when I'm working on it. Hopefully that will help me through it.
 
#69
That motor is an HS40 and someone put a newer shroud on it, if you want spark to be correct you need to get HS40 parts and you will be good. I am just trying to help you out. Tecumseh made H40 later on also out of the small block engine but they have a completely different cam in them so timing is way different. They also have the carb on the other side and they did not have points, they are a magneto ignition.
 
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WrenchDad

Active Member
#71
I put a little bit of gas in the spark plug hole but I'm still not getting fire. The only sound I'm hearing is when I hold the throttle all the way open. I got one pop out of it. I swear I think I saw a puff of smoke out the side of the block when it did. I didn't try any more after that.

I checked it for cracks and didn't see anyway. I suspect it's a blown gasket. That's fine though, because I'm ordering a set so I can go through the motor and clean it piece by piece. As badly as this engine has had it over it's lifetime, I think it deserves it.
I just went thru this On my build off bike. I had the exact same symptoms the three head bolts that go thru the shroud were loose as soon as I tightened them it fired on first pull. May be that's not it but It definately sounds similar. good luck
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#73

Here is an HS40 engine that I built notice the carb an exhaust configuration.

Here is a newer H40 motor on a bike I had, the carb and exhaust are swapped on the newer motor and timing is completely different between the two.
Well I'll be damned. I thought this motor was original. I guess that explains the carb having a primer bulb on it.

I'm glad you pointed that out. I'd hate to go through everything and set it all up and still have problems afterwards.

Thank you
 
#74
:thumbsup: Ive been taking these motors apart and putting them back together since 1973 and over the years I have learned a few things. The primer bulb carbs have a fixed jet and only work well for what that motor was intended for...a better choice for carburetor would be an adjustable jet Tecumseh carb...that way they can be adjusted to whatever you do to the motor. Don't forget to check your valve lash it is very important.
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#75
Rather than getting a dial, I decided to try this the old fashioned way. I took the head off and cleaned everything really well. The old gasket looks brand new. I think that maybe the last time it was replaced, it wasn't cranked down tight enough afterwards. I adjusted the ignition timing as instructed above, and adjusted the coil housing. Everything looks like it lines up as it's supposed to. I put it all back together and cranked it down good and tight.

I decided that rather than wearing myself trying to get this thing to run, that I'd try using an 11/16 socket on my power drill and let the drill do the work. It worked like a charm... except when it started, I got excited and let off the trigger without removing the drill. There was an odd sound.

What happened next happened very fast but felt like an eternity.

The motor revved up to full throttle. The nut unscrewed and the flywheel came off. It fell a few inches to the pavement and shot sparks in every direction, then took off across my car port. When it ran into the brick wall, it didn't stop like I suspected it would. Instead, it shot up in the air like a bottle rocket, still producing sparks off of the brick wall. Finally, it landed with a thud and continued to spin in place until it finally lost it's momentum and fell over.

It took me at least 10 seconds to realize what I had just witnessed. I was still holding the drill with my jaw agape. As terrifying as it was, it was also kind of awesome, until I fully realized what had happened. I felt a sharp pain in my right knee. The flywheel had at some point struck my leg and taken some skin off on it's way to the ground, but it didn't look too bad. I was more worried about the flywheel.

I picked up the flywheel and the first thing I noticed is that the magnets are no longer inside. They were laying on the other side of the carport, no doubt slung when during one of the collisions. The shaft key also sheared in half. Aside from that it actually looks to be in decent shape.

I'm not sure if it can be fixed or not. I can see where the magnets used to be mounted, but I'll have to figure out which way they face (North or south, etc) so I can reattach them. I will also have to try to get them put back on in a way that allows them to have the same gap as before. Can this be done?

I learned a valuable lesson today. I don't know if this is a normal way to start a motor, or if it's ill-advised, but next time I'll just pull it until it starts or my arm is too tired. I have a feeling it will be an expensive mistake in the end. Either way, I don't think my drill will be used as an engine starter in the future.

So, does anyone have any tips or advice for reattaching the magnets to the flywheel? Can that even be done?

Thanks in advance!
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#79
I went ahead and mounted the magnets back onto the flywheel in the same position they were originally. I cleaned both the magnets and the flywheel before doing so. That should help it stick a little better. I used epoxy, so hopefully it will hold.

 
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