A 6 or 8 degree should work. Oh, and dont put the wire in the key as stated above. As already said, the taper of the flywheel holds it in place, the key just locates it. Use some valve grinding compound between the flywheel and crank and lap it in until you can see both surfaces are an exact match.
More compression will help your bottom end power(and everywhere else). You could throw in a set of ratio rockers for more lift as I believe the mod2 is a stock life cam just be sure whatever rockers you have that your valve springs don't bind due to the extra lift. 22mm carbs are fairly cheap, check ebay. The expensive part is the intake manifold. If you know someone with a lathe they could make you one, that's what I did. Stainless valves will flow a little more because they are undercut and are stronger.
It's one of those things where you can just keep going and going. Whats your budget?
A lot of this will move your powerband up so you may want to lower the gearing for a better holeshot but with the the extra top end revs have the same or greater top end.
More compression will help your bottom end power(and everywhere else). You could throw in a set of ratio rockers for more lift as I believe the mod2 is a stock life cam just be sure whatever rockers you have that your valve springs don't bind due to the extra lift. 22mm carbs are fairly cheap, check ebay. The expensive part is the intake manifold. If you know someone with a lathe they could make you one, that's what I did. Stainless valves will flow a little more because they are undercut and are stronger.
It's one of those things where you can just keep going and going. Whats your budget?
A lot of this will move your powerband up so you may want to lower the gearing for a better holeshot but with the the extra top end revs have the same or greater top end.
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You guys say what you will about the flywheel key and putting wire it the empty space but I have seen high compression motors kick back while trying to start them and shear the flywheel key. I built and run a 14:1 compression motor and every little bit you can do to avoid failures is a step in the right direction. Just my opinion.
If the flywheel slips is either not tight enough or fitted improperly. Ever see how the clutch mounts on a snowmobile? Its a tapered fit and in some cases highly modified engines can put out upwards of 300hp with a clutch that engages hard at high rpm they don't slip. Personally I use a key to locate the flywheel but I suppose the one advantage of not using one is if it does slip its less likely to damage the taper.
My two cents
My two cents