NOTE *I made my own jackshaft a while back to replace the worn one so this isn't 100% accurate to a stock jackshaft install. *
The driven and Driver are 30 Series Chinese, the belt is genuine Comet #203590A
While I had the shaft out I put 1/4-20 tapped holes on the ends of the shaft ... I drilled 3/4" deep and hand tapped.
The shaft was made from CRS rod.
There were spacers I made that went with the cat99 setup that were not needed as the 30 Driven is about .350 wider.
On the sprocket side I removed some shims and used the circle clip then I put a 1/4-20 button head with washers on the end as a security measure.
On the driven side that left the jackshaft about .020 below the driven outer surface. If I would have tightened the button head it would have pulled on the jackshaft putting a side load on the circle clip on the sprocket side, not good.
There is a 2-1/2" spacer behind the driven, I ground about .025 off the end to allow the driven to slide further on the jackshaft, now there is about .005 sticking out. The circle clip and spacers will not be needed.
Yes this did throw my belt lineup off by about .025 ... I can live with that. I could have milled the Driven tho.
The only other problem I've found so far is the TAV cover will hit the Driven as its wider.
I will make 2 1/2" spacers at work for each of the 2 mounting points.
So how does it perform?
Wowzer Wowzerton!
It is replacing a 46 year old worn unit so for me it was dramatic.
I'm not bragging about my weight at 285 lbs but keep that in mind as I describe how the TAVs perform.
cat99:
Pull the rope and the bike starts, with a liberal twist of the throttle the front end pulls up and your on the back wheel.
Approach a hill and the motor bogs down because the driven and driver springs are worn and cant get it into "low" without stopping. There is a "much felt" vibration at speed.
Series 30:
Pull the rope and the bike starts. Twist the throttle and the bike begins to move smoothly, the front tire stays down and engine RPMs go up like the belt is slipping like it is supposed to.
I have a sandy hill on my street ... the bike hits the hill and promptly the driven snaps closed and I'm in "low" gear and the back tire is not stopping, the bike stops because I cant get enough grip in the sand. I go at the hill again at a slightly better speed ... the bike hits the hill and the transition from speed to power is smooth, I make it to the top with ease.
On the street it seems to take a little longer to get to top speed but it seems to go faster when I'm there, all perfectly acceptable to me as trail riding is the bikes main focus.
The only vibration I feel is from the H50 popping away.
I am 100% satisfied.
The driven and Driver are 30 Series Chinese, the belt is genuine Comet #203590A
While I had the shaft out I put 1/4-20 tapped holes on the ends of the shaft ... I drilled 3/4" deep and hand tapped.
The shaft was made from CRS rod.
There were spacers I made that went with the cat99 setup that were not needed as the 30 Driven is about .350 wider.
On the sprocket side I removed some shims and used the circle clip then I put a 1/4-20 button head with washers on the end as a security measure.
On the driven side that left the jackshaft about .020 below the driven outer surface. If I would have tightened the button head it would have pulled on the jackshaft putting a side load on the circle clip on the sprocket side, not good.
There is a 2-1/2" spacer behind the driven, I ground about .025 off the end to allow the driven to slide further on the jackshaft, now there is about .005 sticking out. The circle clip and spacers will not be needed.
Yes this did throw my belt lineup off by about .025 ... I can live with that. I could have milled the Driven tho.
The only other problem I've found so far is the TAV cover will hit the Driven as its wider.
I will make 2 1/2" spacers at work for each of the 2 mounting points.
So how does it perform?
Wowzer Wowzerton!
It is replacing a 46 year old worn unit so for me it was dramatic.
I'm not bragging about my weight at 285 lbs but keep that in mind as I describe how the TAVs perform.
cat99:
Pull the rope and the bike starts, with a liberal twist of the throttle the front end pulls up and your on the back wheel.
Approach a hill and the motor bogs down because the driven and driver springs are worn and cant get it into "low" without stopping. There is a "much felt" vibration at speed.
Series 30:
Pull the rope and the bike starts. Twist the throttle and the bike begins to move smoothly, the front tire stays down and engine RPMs go up like the belt is slipping like it is supposed to.
I have a sandy hill on my street ... the bike hits the hill and promptly the driven snaps closed and I'm in "low" gear and the back tire is not stopping, the bike stops because I cant get enough grip in the sand. I go at the hill again at a slightly better speed ... the bike hits the hill and the transition from speed to power is smooth, I make it to the top with ease.
On the street it seems to take a little longer to get to top speed but it seems to go faster when I'm there, all perfectly acceptable to me as trail riding is the bikes main focus.
The only vibration I feel is from the H50 popping away.
I am 100% satisfied.
30 series are the way to go on a bike like that.
ut: what every......:doah: i going to just ride it and have fun with it.........:thumbsup:
