Just another day at my office...
A lot of text, so I took a cup of coffee to start with.
This is where I am at with the design of an improved TAV2-30 series driver clutch.
The picture shows the driver clutch at WOT position, but also (less clear) at the idle position.
The blue part will be a steel plate, welded to the movable sheave. This is where the arms/levers will push against, to make it move.
This is just a provisional design. It might change as I need to figure the shape of arms and the weights of arms needed.
And it all has to work with springs available that are capable of stretching enough and have the right force in idle position and at stretched position. At this time I haven't found any proper springs for it.
Also I don't know how much force is needed when there is belt tension to the movable sheave, to make it move.
The total weight of the new center section (including arms, dowel pins and blue steel plate), which will replace the stock weights, garter springs and drum is 312 grams. This is almost the same weight as just the stock weights in a driver clutch. I can say it will not be heavier.
But as this design needs a lot of thinking through regarding springs and shape and weight of arms, it will take time to figure it out. So it's a bit of "on hold".
It is "fairly" easy to create it with a proper engagement rpm, but what will it do at WOT? Will it create enough force to push against the belt tension or to much? Example: On WOT it might desire other springs or arms then on idle. While I need the same springs and arms on both positions and in between.
Yesterday I put the movable sheave in the lathe and made it true again. After that I mounted the primary clutch again. After I mounted it I put a dial indicator up against the drum and tried to make that true also and I ran the bike.
The vibrations were still there as soon as the driver clutch started to function. The vibration were less, but still there. With bot sheaves made true, I think that it's caused with play of the movable sheave on the splined driver hub, this might cause the movable sheave to be nonparallel to the drum side.
As a lot of people here on oldminibikes mention that a genuine Comet is superior to a Chinese (you get what you pay for), I
might buy a genuine Comet clutch and see if it doesn't create vibrations. Their price is almost the same as a complete Chinese TAV-2 kit, so I'll have to think about it.
If it doesn't create vibrations; I will keep running it.
If it does create vibrations; I will go further with my design "made in the Netherlands".
Does a genuine Comet clutch create vibrations?