Recent content by caver1510

Here is my home made alignment rack.. You are looking at a 12" Rupp wheel. I got them to within .005. My suggestion would be to hammer out any dings before you get it rechromed. Use a spoke wrench, as they are wider than a regular open end wrench. This will be easier on the nipples. Black Widow...

I will post tomorrow the number of the bearing I used,

I got to thinking, and the bearings I used DID NOT have a flange on them. They pressed in all the way too the flange on the inside of the hub.

I am going to have to look, but I think the outside dimension was metric and they pressed in very nicely....I understand Rupp used two suppliers for the 12" rims. one from Italy and one from ??? Spain?, can't remember where....The guy from BW Motorsports told me, but they were both from across...

I have put several sets of these wheels together. NONE have the cup that you show. It looks like the cup has a flange on it to keep the bearing from going it too far. The bearings I have used have a flange on them and they had a spacer between the bearings.

That is EXACTLEY what I was thinking when I first saw the header

if you are banking on THIS to get chicks.......you would be better off by taking the $125.00 you would spend on it and search the Craigslist W4M

1971 Rupp Roadster2

Any suggestions for keeping the end of the spring in one of those 3 holes? No matter which hole I use, it seems to want to slip out. Seems it would be better if the end of the spring would be a little longer.

The welch plug in the bottom....in the bowl, keeps excess gas from sloshing out the vent hole on the side of the carb

Rupp used 20 spoke and 24 spoked wheels in the 12"....and 3 different spoke manufacturers...Some rims from Japan and some from Italy

Here is my question....As far as the Black Widow goes.....what is special about the serial number that says it is a Black Widow?

This is how high it is riding now, before I adjusted it, the belt rode in about 1/2" deeper