HOW TO ?? REMOVE PAINT + SURFACE RUST. .Bonanza fenders +badge ..
- Thread starter phxminiguy52
- Start date
If you don't mind taking the pop rivets off the badge, soak the fenders and badge in a solution of vinegar and salt ( 1 cup salt per gallon vinegar) for about a week) will be all clean. Quick soak in baking soda and water to stop the acid in the vinegar. Works really well. You have to sand with fine sand paper and prime right away or you will get flash rust. ( Cleaning vinegar works best).
I use paint stripper on chrome, or steel that I want to remove all of the paint from. For chrome that is rusted, I soak it in muriatic acid, reduce, but only because I have a pool and keep that stuff around. It's not as caustic and dangerous as everyone wants to tell us. I've been using it on mini bike and other rusty parts for years. I wash with soap and water, then towel dry. No rust problems like that. (Edit: We live in AZ, and I don't even bother with a water separator on my air tank) You can then polish it with a power tool (drill press, etc) using a more gentle round wire brush.
With those fenders, some paint stripper, and then some hardy brass or bronze polish would probably get the rust staining out. I cant see the level of corrosion in the photos.
With the badge, it depends on the type of paint used. I'd start with lacquer thinner on a rag. I have done that precision work with paint stripper using a small brush (1/4") brush some on, and have water in a bowl near by to neutralize, and work back and forth until you get it down. Again, it really depends on the paint.
With those fenders, some paint stripper, and then some hardy brass or bronze polish would probably get the rust staining out. I cant see the level of corrosion in the photos.
With the badge, it depends on the type of paint used. I'd start with lacquer thinner on a rag. I have done that precision work with paint stripper using a small brush (1/4") brush some on, and have water in a bowl near by to neutralize, and work back and forth until you get it down. Again, it really depends on the paint.
Try a laquer thinner soak on the badge, dependent on the paint they used it may lift easy:
can do the same on the fenders, but what I keep in my garage to strip paint off of steel and chrome is Zep industrial cleaner in a big storage tub. If its cheap spraybomb it will lift off pretty fast. take them out and hose them off and use nothing coarser than super fine 0000 steel polishing wool
you can do plastic and steel parts, absalutly NO ALUMINUM in there though!!!!!!!
can do the same on the fenders, but what I keep in my garage to strip paint off of steel and chrome is Zep industrial cleaner in a big storage tub. If its cheap spraybomb it will lift off pretty fast. take them out and hose them off and use nothing coarser than super fine 0000 steel polishing wool
you can do plastic and steel parts, absalutly NO ALUMINUM in there though!!!!!!!
Thank you Roadrunner, Markus, Havasu Dave.. I'll give it a go with the methods you guys mentioned and post a follow-up pic. I'm anxious to see how they turn out so I'll get busy tonight. And yes Dave I've got some muriatic acid for the pool. That's a great idea. I know how to handle it so I won't get burned. 
the rust is very surface type and not deep. The paint looks like it will come off easy on the fenders . But the Chrome is so cheap, I sure don't want to take it off 2 . These will be for a rider.. and you know how important the badges are. thanks a million Phx
the rust is very surface type and not deep. The paint looks like it will come off easy on the fenders . But the Chrome is so cheap, I sure don't want to take it off 2 . These will be for a rider.. and you know how important the badges are. thanks a million Phx
Try a laquer thinner soak on the badge, dependent on the paint they used it may lift easy:
can do the same on the fenders, but what I keep in my garage to strip paint off of steel and chrome is Zep industrial cleaner in a big storage tub. If its cheap spraybomb it will lift off pretty fast. take them out and hose them off and use nothing coarser than super fine 0000 steel polishing wool
you can do plastic and steel parts, absalutly NO ALUMINUM in there though!!!!!!!
can do the same on the fenders, but what I keep in my garage to strip paint off of steel and chrome is Zep industrial cleaner in a big storage tub. If its cheap spraybomb it will lift off pretty fast. take them out and hose them off and use nothing coarser than super fine 0000 steel polishing wool
you can do plastic and steel parts, absalutly NO ALUMINUM in there though!!!!!!!
When I said "wire brush" I was refering to one I use at high RPM on aluminum just before I switch to the buffing pad and rouge. I don't do chrome with a wire brush that would make a mark on it.
Dont be afraid of the paint stripper on your chrome. We used it on aircraft aluminum- and I use it on everything, even plastic and FRP if you don't keep it on too long.
I use an estimated 25% ratio of muriatic to water. I hang the parts using a wire (coat hanger, etc) in the solution for only as long as it takes to see the rust beginning to fade. I then take it out and wash it with dish soap and water, using a piece of steel wool as a rag. If it takes the rust off, good, if not, it goes back in the acid. I have never eaten into any chrome, or melted any metal, except for one time I left a piece in over night, and I could see a line where the level of acid was. (not a chrome piece)
You have to wash it with soap and water. I used to neutralize with soda ash and water, (pool chemicals again, LOL) but didnt see any difference from soap and water. You also must dry it with compressed air or a rag, or it will be prone to rusting. Note that I have never experienced bare metal rusting while sitting in my garage. I also dont use a water separator on my air compressor, and I know that a rag soaked in reducer is dry in about a minute. We live in a DRY climate.
PS: In the time it has taken me to type this, I could have had both of those fenders done. LOL!
PPS: Evapo-rust is the stuff most people use- but it's expensive, and in AZ, you can't put it on a soak-rag and hope to do anything with it.
PPPS: By this time, with the old OldMiniBikes, someone would have mentioned using coca-cola and tin foil.
Dont be afraid of the paint stripper on your chrome. We used it on aircraft aluminum- and I use it on everything, even plastic and FRP if you don't keep it on too long.
I use an estimated 25% ratio of muriatic to water. I hang the parts using a wire (coat hanger, etc) in the solution for only as long as it takes to see the rust beginning to fade. I then take it out and wash it with dish soap and water, using a piece of steel wool as a rag. If it takes the rust off, good, if not, it goes back in the acid. I have never eaten into any chrome, or melted any metal, except for one time I left a piece in over night, and I could see a line where the level of acid was. (not a chrome piece)
You have to wash it with soap and water. I used to neutralize with soda ash and water, (pool chemicals again, LOL) but didnt see any difference from soap and water. You also must dry it with compressed air or a rag, or it will be prone to rusting. Note that I have never experienced bare metal rusting while sitting in my garage. I also dont use a water separator on my air compressor, and I know that a rag soaked in reducer is dry in about a minute. We live in a DRY climate.
PS: In the time it has taken me to type this, I could have had both of those fenders done. LOL!
PPS: Evapo-rust is the stuff most people use- but it's expensive, and in AZ, you can't put it on a soak-rag and hope to do anything with it.
PPPS: By this time, with the old OldMiniBikes, someone would have mentioned using coca-cola and tin foil.
Progress Update :
Lacquer thinner and 000 steel wool did the trick. Unfortunately the badge was already missing all of the paint underneath as there was no red on the rag or anywhere. But it's still a bonanza badge that's readable and there. The fenders came out unbelievable the Chrome underneath was really in good shape other than some light pitting. I took some pics of the fenders and badge and then what the heck threw together a mock-up with some of the spare Bonanza stuff I have laying around and a Briggs 3hp I had ready for use. Once I try Markus idea of flattening the frame with my car using a floor jack, I might actually have a running Bike by the end of the weekend , hard to believe. You might say right now it's a 500 kit. Thanks to all...Mark in Phoenix
Lacquer thinner and 000 steel wool did the trick. Unfortunately the badge was already missing all of the paint underneath as there was no red on the rag or anywhere. But it's still a bonanza badge that's readable and there. The fenders came out unbelievable the Chrome underneath was really in good shape other than some light pitting. I took some pics of the fenders and badge and then what the heck threw together a mock-up with some of the spare Bonanza stuff I have laying around and a Briggs 3hp I had ready for use. Once I try Markus idea of flattening the frame with my car using a floor jack, I might actually have a running Bike by the end of the weekend , hard to believe. You might say right now it's a 500 kit. Thanks to all...Mark in Phoenix
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Yes it's been stretched from underneath apparently to fit a larger engine at one time. Markus sent me a link showing how I might put it back into shape. Jack up your heavy vehicle using wooden blocks on the frame and ease it down to flatten it hopefully without breaking it. The frame, forks and fenders came as a package on the cheap side. I'm going to give it a go and will update with progress reports but it won't be till after Thanksgiving today. Happy Thanksgiving to you sir. Mark
I work with body shops often and a painter once showed me how he uses Easy-Off to remove painted pinstripes without damaging the underlying painted finish. Don't let it sit too long.
I prefer brass wool over steel wool for rubbing on chrome. I believe the softer metal is less likely to leave scratches.
Good luck w/the frame repair. That sounds like a great plan.
I prefer brass wool over steel wool for rubbing on chrome. I believe the softer metal is less likely to leave scratches.
Good luck w/the frame repair. That sounds like a great plan.
Tom, pin striping paint is generally a product called 1 shot, or a cousin. It is a lettering enamel, and cleans off extremely easy. It is reduced with paint thinner or turpentine. EZ Off will definitely remove it, as will paint thinner or giving it a mean look.
A quality pin striping artist will catalyze that paint before it is applied. You aren't getting that off with lye (oven cleaner) without ruining the paint beneath. A complete custom paint job will have clear coat applied over all of the artwork, so again, you aren't removing it with lye. The painter was fortunate he was working on a car with crappy pin striping, such as that applied at car shows under a tent in the vendor area. (wink) Hey, the price was right. I know guys who do this at car shows.
I didn't mention it above, but if you're better off using wadding such as dura-glit, or one of my favorites "Brasso" which contains I believe enough base to chemically convert any rust it doesn't remove. It provides a superior polish finish in brass, and is best with a machine on chrome where the rust pitting is not severe. I assumed the OP was referring to severely corroded chrome, which is why I championed the use of a 25% muriatic solution.
Since I long ago sold my lifted F250, I no longer have a vehicle tall enough to jam under the receiver to jack frames straight. I've reverted to using a stout cargo strap with strategically placed blocks of wood, and low heat. It's a slower job, but I get great control, and I dont damage ancilliary bits of the bike that were torqued when the frame was originally bent with a jack. It is slow, but not as slow as removing rust with brass wool, LOL.
A quality pin striping artist will catalyze that paint before it is applied. You aren't getting that off with lye (oven cleaner) without ruining the paint beneath. A complete custom paint job will have clear coat applied over all of the artwork, so again, you aren't removing it with lye. The painter was fortunate he was working on a car with crappy pin striping, such as that applied at car shows under a tent in the vendor area. (wink) Hey, the price was right. I know guys who do this at car shows.
I didn't mention it above, but if you're better off using wadding such as dura-glit, or one of my favorites "Brasso" which contains I believe enough base to chemically convert any rust it doesn't remove. It provides a superior polish finish in brass, and is best with a machine on chrome where the rust pitting is not severe. I assumed the OP was referring to severely corroded chrome, which is why I championed the use of a 25% muriatic solution.
Since I long ago sold my lifted F250, I no longer have a vehicle tall enough to jam under the receiver to jack frames straight. I've reverted to using a stout cargo strap with strategically placed blocks of wood, and low heat. It's a slower job, but I get great control, and I dont damage ancilliary bits of the bike that were torqued when the frame was originally bent with a jack. It is slow, but not as slow as removing rust with brass wool, LOL.