01 Oval Kart clean up

#1
I am working on a 2001 oval kart that I have plans of racing upon the arrival of the next oval track race season. I have never raced oval but it looks like a blast. My plans are to run a predator 212 Hemi with a RTC-8 head. Below are pictures of my starting point. I have replaced every bearing on the kart so far, spindle bearings, rear axle bearings, and tie rods. I am refreshing everything I can. It will be like my mini bike for a while, all ratty as its too cold to sandblast right now and I would like to run it a bit and not worry about scratches and what not. The kart is a 2001 Legend Vision kart. It is not like the newer karts that have heim joints for camber/caster adjustment. The only adjustment is the up/down of the wheel height, or so I think. Anyways, plan on having some fun with it no matter what. If you have any tips/suggestions please share as I am new to the whole kart setup task. The pictures look like the kart is pink, but its filthy, and it is actually the color of my compressor in the background. I will pressure wash it next warm day.

 
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#2
Hmmm where to start lol.

First thing you need to do is find your local tracks and look on their websites and get ahold of the track owners. Get a list of classes and their rules.
Generally speaking your only going to find 2 predator classes
1) SPG rules which allow some modification but they are pretty limited
2) Out of the box stock predator. Only thing you can do is vent the tank and adjust governor to 5500rpm max. Governor still has to be in tact.

The other very important thing is weight. Your going to have to scale the kart and add weight to meet minimum weight requirements to race at the track. This varies from track to track but expect anywhere between 350lbs and 390lbs predator classes.

Tires, tires, tires, tires, tires.
At the end of the day its all about tires. Tires are going to run you a ton of money unless you are lucky enough to have a track that runs burris of el tires.
Most tracks run maxxis, vegas, or hoosiers. Be prepared to spend 225 a set and to replace them about every 4-5 races.

Tire prep is super important. Be prepared to learn a whole new art to prepping tires and spend about 100-150 on prepping chemicals and materials.

Buy a tach. Your going to need a good tach like a mycrhon 4 so you can practice and compare lap times. Plus most tracks limit max rpm on predators and they can request you verify that on your kart stand..... you have to have a tach to be able to verify that.

Buy a full set of rear gears and a quality clutch.
Your track rules will dictate if you have to run a drum clutch or open. Try and race a drum clutch at an open track and you won't stand a chance.
Get an assortment of drivers for your clutch 15,16,17,18,19 and a full set of rear gears. Gearing changes with track conditions and the type of track dictates your clutch driver ( larger tracks larger driver, smaller tracks smaller driver ).

Lastly after all that is done get your kart to a shop or a friends and get it scaled out. You'll add weight and move things around to get the kart scaled out correctly.

If you don't have your motor, gearing, tires, and kart setup right you won't stand a chance out there.
Kart racing is very very very competitive. Be prepared to learn a lot and spend a lot of cash in the process.

Good luck :D
 
#3
Outcry, thanks much for the advice, I truly appreciate it. You must be part of the thunder stealer race team, just kidding. I have read similar things as you have stated on the predator class, that's its pretty limited. I have yet to check with my local race track to see what classes they run, all the classes is a mystery to me for the most part. Since they have the clone class, but the predator isn't part of that as the clone is 196 and the predator is 212. I have a bully clutch I picked up a while back to run. Now would probably be the best time to check the engine classes. I know the other guys with newer karts will be faster just based on setup. I am fully prepared to be laughed at, lol...should be fun though. Gotta start somewhere. I have a collection of maxxis wheels and rims, I know a guy who has a flat track they run ATV's on, that I can give it a go without other guys lapping me. Keep the advice coming. What suggestion would you give for an engine to run, or what do you run? Lastly I have 0 friends......that run oval karts so scaling is gonna be a bit tough, until I go to the track and practice/attempt to meet racers. My brother is considering getting a kart as well, so that should help as he has never met a stranger lol.

 
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#4
Well you couldn't have picked a better clutch. That's the exact clutch I run.
I would really suggest you run the predator class. Hopefully your local track has the box stock predator class in which case you won't need to spend any money on the engine.
If that's the case let me know and I can get you set up on getting it class ready.

For a predator with the bully you will want to run bolts in both holes on those ears and use the black springs. When I get back around the shop I can tell you the spring height that will get you close to an engagement speed of 2800 (ideal for predator)

You will at the very least need to scale the kart to make sure you make weight with it for the class. You have to use lead weights that are cast into pucks etc and the track requires certain hardware for certain poundages. Typically ; 5 pound or less 5/16" bolt with double nuts or 6+ pounds either two 5/16 or 1 3/8" with double nuts.

Make sure you reach out and get the class info and rules as soon as you can. The more time you have to prepare the better.
Most tracks run a test and tune day a month before actual racing starts. Plan to spend a day out there testing and making adjustments.

Your probably going to want a 18 and 19 driver at least to add to the 15t already with your bully unless the track your running is very small.

I run predator but clone is extremely popular but not very beginner friendly. Clone classes comply with a set of rules and the engines race ready typically run anywhere from 1k to 1500 bucks a pop. Then they need to be freshened up every 10 races or so to stay competitive. Also clone classes are much harder on tires. Most clone class karts run a brand new set 1 race, flip the tire, then run one more race and the tire is done for.
Meet some competitive clone class guys and try and buy their two race takeoffs. They are perfect for predator class racing as you don't make enough power to need super fresh tires. Those tires usually sell for 10 bucks a piece so you can save a ton of money going that route.

If you don't already have safety gear you will need it. Almost every track requires a helmet that is at least snell 2005 rated, a neck brace, and a jacket. If you don't have a snell rated helmet Vega sells some inexpensive options for around 100 bucks that are kart specific helmets that are snell rated.

Hmmmm. I know I'm missing a ton of stuff but it should come to me as you ask more questions and get a bit further along.
Where are you located?? I could look for local tracks and see what the rules are.
 
#5
KMC if you find yourself extremely bored and want to rip that kart in your yard check out my youtube channel. Search Kart Art and my channel should come up. Right now I'm getting an 05 millennium tempest changed up for the yard and working on a drift trike with a race kart rear axle.
 
#6
OCD, thanks for that thorough explanation. I have spent a lot of time on bobs reading and trying to get up to speed. Seems like you are a ways ahead of me. I will reach out to my local track. I live in NW Arkansas. My local track is state line speedway in blue eye Missouri. They have a few YouTube videos of their track. I would like to get your clutch setup info as I have never setup a bully. I knew the tires were expensive and have purchased several sets of low race used sets with rims when possible. Have about 4 complete sets now, rights and lefts. Once I get class info I will report back. I want to get this thing on 4 wheels and go around the yard a few times, I have a set of tires perfect for that. I'll check out your videos for sure, but couldn't find kart art????
 
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#8
Tonight or tomorrow morning I'll be uploading two video's specifically on the predator 212.
I can't really get into specifics on this site about the first video but the 2nd video will be on nr racing's parts kits.
 
#9
I looked on their facebook and the only rules I saw was for 2014.
They had a stock appearing class for predator,clone, and flatheads.
Weight was 350 class or 400 class
You can do anything to the motor you want but it has to be stock appearing on the outside.

I really don't like those classes. You start getting into tech inspections and all this other jazz and competing against 1k dollar predator motors its not much fun.
Maybe the rules have changed?? If not get ready to sling some parts haha.
 
#11
I looked on their facebook and the only rules I saw was for 2014.
They had a stock appearing class for predator,clone, and flatheads.
Weight was 350 class or 400 class
You can do anything to the motor you want but it has to be stock appearing on the outside.

I really don't like those classes. You start getting into tech inspections and all this other jazz and competing against 1k dollar predator motors its not much fun.
Maybe the rules have changed?? If not get ready to sling some parts haha.
There is a phone number on their FB page. I don't have FB. But my wife does. I am going to call the phone number listed. I couldn't find anything current either.
 
#12
Tonight or tomorrow morning I'll be uploading two video's specifically on the predator 212.
I can't really get into specifics on this site about the first video but the 2nd video will be on nr racing's parts kits.
Which kit did you get from NR? I have their stage 3 on my mini bike predator motor.
 
#13
I got the stage 2. I didn't like any of the cam choices so I just figured I'd get the stage 2 kit for now.
I'll be ordering the black mamba cam, billet rod, and billet flywheel here in about a week.
The drift trike isn't getting any parts. It will be super light and never get traction anyways so basically stock predator for it. Possibly do exhaust and air intake and rejet but thats it.

I'm uploading the predator video now (video 1).
Should be available in about 10 minutes.
 
#14
I got the stage 2. I didn't like any of the cam choices so I just figured I'd get the stage 2 kit for now.
I'll be ordering the black mamba cam, billet rod, and billet flywheel here in about a week.
The drift trike isn't getting any parts. It will be super light and never get traction anyways so basically stock predator for it. Possibly do exhaust and air intake and rejet but thats it.

I'm uploading the predator video now (video 1).
Should be available in about 10 minutes.
Cool. I'll be sure to watch them. I just sold a black mamba Sr cam but for a non hemi. I have a black mamba Sr cam for my hemi predator. They are awesome cams. I want to get a Jr as well. Have you adjusted your governor to pull more RPM's? I don't have any governor parts as I bought a short block hemi from bobs, that might screw up my class.
 
#15
Yeah mine are all adjusted for predator class. You can probably get the entire throttle and governor assembly for really cheap on ebay or something I'm sure.

Heck I might even have an assembly laying around if you end up needing one.
 
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#16
Yeah mine are all adjusted for predator class. You can probably get the entire throttle and governor assembly for really cheap on ebay or something I'm sure.

Heck I might even have an assembly laying around if you end up needing one.
I did run across a predator engine box in top of my shed that had all my stock predator junk in it, including my old governor stuff. I don't know how interested I would be in running a governed class. I like to haul ace as much as the next guy, not that I'm a pro engine builder but I would rather get beat on an ungoverned engine I built, since it sounds like I will get beat regardless, and every engine builder has to start somewhere. I have spoken to a few guys about making some serious power, and considering getting a genuine GX200 block from NR racing: Block, GX200 : Genuine Honda They will over bore if for you as well, which a big bore GX200 will make some awesome power for a small block. I have yet to find the classes and have not gotten a response either, will try again.
 
#17
Pressure washed

Below are my cleanup pictures of my Kart. I pressure washed it and put on a GX160 with a black mamba sr cam, rtc-8 head, and arc billet rod. This one has a King Billet steel flywheel and a .670 bored carb from NR racing. Should be fun to begin with, at least to practice on. Since it has the original fuel tank, it starts to starve for fuel when 1/2 full. I have ordered a new RLV chain, and still need a new MCP brake rotor, the one on mine is bent and would create tons of heat if I ran it as is. The last two pictures are the kart sitting in my kitchen, and yes my wife said get that piece of junk out of here, but I kept it inside while mounting my seat, my shed is not heated. I am going to add two grease zerks to the steering column blocks, they squeak and feel some grease would suffice, and is in order.




 
#19
KMC that is just the rules they follow. They are pretty specific to clones and flatheads etc.
That doesn't tell you what classes they are running unfortunately. You need to ask them directly if they have a predator class and what those class rules are.
Kart is looking good. Don't spend too much time with the seat. It has to be no lower than 8 1/2" from the top of the axle typically and your going to move your seat around to set up the kart. Ideally you want to get the kart scaled with you in it and move the seat to better setup the weight on the kart.
 
#20
KMC that is just the rules they follow. They are pretty specific to clones and flatheads etc.
That doesn't tell you what classes they are running unfortunately. You need to ask them directly if they have a predator class and what those class rules are.
Kart is looking good. Don't spend too much time with the seat. It has to be no lower than 8 1/2" from the top of the axle typically and your going to move your seat around to set up the kart. Ideally you want to get the kart scaled with you in it and move the seat to better setup the weight on the kart.
Thanks, I will ask for a more specific answer. I have mounted my seat the best I could, I need it to be slid back just a touch to better allow leg room, or I might attempt flipping the pedals, but also getting longer seat sliders would help as they are maxxed out right now. I was reading on the AKRA 2017 rule changes on bobs. Very thorough. The tough part is going to be getting this thing scaled, I don't know anybody that has one at the moment, hopefully that changes. My spindles are the non heim ones, and it utilizes pills to adjust castor/camber. This kart may be difficult to get right, but it will be good to get my feet wet I suppose. To hook up my throttle I am going to attempt to run a top plate under my fuel tank, the top plate I am using is very small but has the perfect angle to make my tank more horizontal as well, we shall see. I do have a floor fuel tank as well as a fuel pump to fall back on if I need to just remove the stock fuel tank on my motor now.
 
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