1971 HS40

markus

Well-Known Member
#1
Doing a few engines for one guy. Last one I shipped back up to him he reused my crate I made to send another down just for a basic rebuild/repaint ….my crates are doing pretty good

IMG_4210.jpeg IMG_4209.jpeg


does not look to bad but the block does have a few issues
IMG_4238.jpeg IMG_4239.jpeg

The intake flange bottom thread is broke and the actual intake has been welded/repaired. Not a big deal for me to fix the block, but firing up the welder, drilling and retapping cost time and money
IMG_4242.jpeg IMG_4243.jpeg

The bore was on the verge of having to go overbore, and after running a hone through it there are still few scratches that show through and I would be at the max according to the bore gauge and be starting with a pretty wide gap on the rings as well as a lot of clearance between skirt and cylinder, so it needs bored over. again no big deal for me to do and have the parts in stock but costs a lot and time consuming.

I have a few extra HS40 blocks accumulated so it will actually be a fraction of the cost for me to just use a donor that’s onhand (repeat customer discount of course;)) this one specs out really tight on the cylinder no repairs needed, just the standard valve recuts needed that were no worse than the original engine.

this is the donor, piston is clean and not scratched up as well so This will save on the parts bill as well.
IMG_4244.jpeg IMG_4245.jpeg
IMG_4244.jpeg




While the block was in the soak tank, I refaced the valves
IMG_4246.jpeg

Out of the tank, I resurfaced the deck, and deglazed the straight, clean bore. I removed all the cast flashing from the intake/exhaust ports (this one was pretty sloppy). Now it’s ready to rod the exhaust seat off the pitting and get both seats reduced down to proper widths and seated better on the valve faces via a multi angle seat recut
IMG_4248.jpeg IMG_4249.jpeg IMG_4250.jpeg

here the original block after cleanup, I will do the boring and welding to it at a later time as it i
IMG_4251.jpeg

today I will put the crank on the machine and polish the journals, it’s decent, the rod/main is on its last serviceable measurement but not egged out or grooved or gouged so it’s very doable… all other internals will be cleaned and prepped as well as the hardware and hope to get it at least into a shortblock, so I can get it off the bench and work on the carb and shrouding etc…
 
#6
if I may ask a question? how can you fix a Governor shaft that leaks oil on an HS40?
Years ago, I did a complete write-up on how to do it using common materials you can purchase at most hardware stores. Using the search feature on this forum enter the search words "Governor shaft bushing", then scroll down to the thread entitled "Worn governor shaft bore". Scroll down to (my) reply # 8- enjoy! *** Edit: If someone knows how to link that reply to this thread/post please do so- Thank you!
Michael
 
Last edited:
#7
Years ago, I did a complete write-up on how to do it using common materials you can purchase at most hardware stores. Using the search feature on this forum enter the search words "Governor shaft bushing", then scroll down to the thread entitled "Worn governor shaft bore". Scroll down to (my) reply # 8- enjoy! *** Edit: If someone knows how to link that reply to this thread/post please do so- Thank you!
Michael
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/worn-governor-shaft-bore.170803/#post-1250119
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#12
Did you sand blast those parts or something else?
combination, some things go in a soak tank then media blasted, some just get soaked and then cleaned, somethings just go through the parts washer, Engine block/internals after all work is done needs to get washed really well in clean hot soapy water since a lot of fine materials get imbedded from honing/boring/cutting, I am at that point this morning, gotta box and ship a couple of sold items out this morn and then its bath time for this HS :) IMG_3795.JPG
 
#14
it's that exact motor. The gray paint. another prob is I can't get it to idle. If I raise the idle the
comet converter ingauges If I lower the idle it stalls dead no happy spot?
it's almost like the fly wheel is too light
 
#15
it's that exact motor. The gray paint. another prob is I can't get it to idle. If I raise the idle the
comet converter ingauges If I lower the idle it stalls dead no happy spot?
it's almost like the fly wheel is too light
You might want to start a new thread about your idle issue, likely to receive more responses
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#17
it's that exact motor. The gray paint. another prob is I can't get it to idle. If I raise the idle the
comet converter ingauges If I lower the idle it stalls dead no happy spot?
it's almost like the fly wheel is too light
If its the correct carb for the application its probably something to do with the low speed/idle circuit if all else is in good operating condition.
 
#18
Ma
Doing a few engines for one guy. Last one I shipped back up to him he reused my crate I made to send another down just for a basic rebuild/repaint ….my crates are doing pretty good

View attachment 304312 View attachment 304313


does not look to bad but the block does have a few issues
View attachment 304314 View attachment 304315

The intake flange bottom thread is broke and the actual intake has been welded/repaired. Not a big deal for me to fix the block, but firing up the welder, drilling and retapping cost time and money
View attachment 304316 View attachment 304317

The bore was on the verge of having to go overbore, and after running a hone through it there are still few scratches that show through and I would be at the max according to the bore gauge and be starting with a pretty wide gap on the rings as well as a lot of clearance between skirt and cylinder, so it needs bored over. again no big deal for me to do and have the parts in stock but costs a lot and time consuming.

I have a few extra HS40 blocks accumulated so it will actually be a fraction of the cost for me to just use a donor that’s onhand (repeat customer discount of course;)) this one specs out really tight on the cylinder no repairs needed, just the standard valve recuts needed that were no worse than the original engine.

this is the donor, piston is clean and not scratched up as well so This will save on the parts bill as well.
View attachment 304318 View attachment 304319
View attachment 304318




While the block was in the soak tank, I refaced the valves
View attachment 304320

Out of the tank, I resurfaced the deck, and deglazed the straight, clean bore. I removed all the cast flashing from the intake/exhaust ports (this one was pretty sloppy). Now it’s ready to rod the exhaust seat off the pitting and get both seats reduced down to proper widths and seated better on the valve faces via a multi angle seat recut
View attachment 304321 View attachment 304322 View attachment 304323

here the original block after cleanup, I will do the boring and welding to it at a later time as it i
View attachment 304324

today I will put the crank on the machine and polish the journals, it’s decent, the rod/main is on its last serviceable measurement but not egged out or grooved or gouged so it’s very doable… all other internals will be cleaned and prepped as well as the hardware and hope to get it at least into a shortblock, so I can get it off the bench and work on the carb and shrouding etc…
Markus,
We have had some success using a brass
threaded bolt. First we chase the existing threads. Then thread in the brass bolt. Weld around it to build up material. We keep the heat on the low side of our mig.
Remove the bolt, face the surface and chase the threads.
It took us several tries on some junk blocks to get it satisfactory. Some times material doesn’t flow into the thread valleys real good. This works really good for relocating holes that are egged-out. I machined a long taper brass rod and locate the diameter and position of the hole. Then weld away. You can reach the brass melting point pretty easy, but it’s sacrificial.
Nice work.
 
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