Back to the original premise of this thread....
The Badger front end showed up today. Mine apparently is a takeoff as there is bolt marks where an axle was installed and the upper forks show where the neck bolt was installed. Some scratches in the paint on the lower shock bodies.
Side by side with the neck bars lined up, the axle sits 1" father from the neck and the handles are 1" shorter towards the neck.
Has the exact same DB fender mount bracket welded on. Steering stops are identical to stock DB. Same handlebar bends
Shiny chrome on really thinwall tubing. Even thinner than the stock DB. The area where the upper and lower forks bolt together is .048" wall thickness. Stock DB is .083" wall. The upper part of these bars is standard .083". Also notice the rust inside the tube. Not just surface rust..
There is no brake caliper mounts.
The lower "shock" bodies have the axle boss cast slightly forward for more caster. Total of 2" of "shock" travel. These only have internal springs, no hydraulics.
As far as the axle spacers and axle bolt, the easiest way I see is using the stock DB axle bolt and cutting the spacers to fit.
I also got the "number plate" which is nothing more than a piece of plastic with fake carbon fiber printed on it. Does not look good and is chipped in several places. At least I now have a template to cut out a piece of aluminum.
These forks look like they would be fine for a low speed bike, but I would not recommend them for offroad or high speed due to the thinwall tubing(flex/bending).
After some thought and a beer.......
Think I found an easy solution to the thin tubing. The lower shocks slide over the stock DB fork tubing. If you were to just buy the lower sections, then cut off the stock DB forks 7 3/8" below the lower neck brace, slide the lower shock on, then drill and bolt them on. This would put the axle at exactly the same height as stock DB. Then just cut your stock DB axle spacers to fit.
This would take care of the thinwall tubing issue as it would have the stock DB fork inside full length.
I would consider welding the lowers to the fork, but then you would not be able to take the lowers apart.
After some more thought, I don't think I would drill and bolt them. The tubing in the shocks is just under 1" OD. Some double split clamps and good to go.
The Badger front end showed up today. Mine apparently is a takeoff as there is bolt marks where an axle was installed and the upper forks show where the neck bolt was installed. Some scratches in the paint on the lower shock bodies.
Side by side with the neck bars lined up, the axle sits 1" father from the neck and the handles are 1" shorter towards the neck.
Has the exact same DB fender mount bracket welded on. Steering stops are identical to stock DB. Same handlebar bends
Shiny chrome on really thinwall tubing. Even thinner than the stock DB. The area where the upper and lower forks bolt together is .048" wall thickness. Stock DB is .083" wall. The upper part of these bars is standard .083". Also notice the rust inside the tube. Not just surface rust..
There is no brake caliper mounts.
The lower "shock" bodies have the axle boss cast slightly forward for more caster. Total of 2" of "shock" travel. These only have internal springs, no hydraulics.
As far as the axle spacers and axle bolt, the easiest way I see is using the stock DB axle bolt and cutting the spacers to fit.
I also got the "number plate" which is nothing more than a piece of plastic with fake carbon fiber printed on it. Does not look good and is chipped in several places. At least I now have a template to cut out a piece of aluminum.
These forks look like they would be fine for a low speed bike, but I would not recommend them for offroad or high speed due to the thinwall tubing(flex/bending).
After some thought and a beer.......
Think I found an easy solution to the thin tubing. The lower shocks slide over the stock DB fork tubing. If you were to just buy the lower sections, then cut off the stock DB forks 7 3/8" below the lower neck brace, slide the lower shock on, then drill and bolt them on. This would put the axle at exactly the same height as stock DB. Then just cut your stock DB axle spacers to fit.
This would take care of the thinwall tubing issue as it would have the stock DB fork inside full length.
I would consider welding the lowers to the fork, but then you would not be able to take the lowers apart.
After some more thought, I don't think I would drill and bolt them. The tubing in the shocks is just under 1" OD. Some double split clamps and good to go.
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Back to the original premise of this thread....
The Badger front end showed up today. Mine apparently is a takeoff as there is bolt marks where an axle was installed and the upper forks show where the neck bolt was installed. Some scratches in the paint on the lower shock bodies.
Side by side with the neck bars lined up, the axle sits 1" father from the neck and the handles are 1" shorter towards the neck.
Has the exact same DB fender mount bracket welded on. Steering stops are identical to stock DB. Same handlebar bends
Shiny chrome on really thinwall tubing. Even thinner than the stock DB. The area where the upper and lower forks bolt together is .048" wall thickness. Stock DB is .083" wall. The upper part of these bars is standard .083". Also notice the rust inside the tube. Not just surface rust..
There is no brake caliper mounts.
The lower "shock" bodies have the axle boss cast slightly forward for more caster. Total of 2" of "shock" travel. These only have internal springs, no hydraulics.
As far as the axle spacers and axle bolt, the easiest way I see is using the stock DB axle bolt and cutting the spacers to fit.
I also got the "number plate" which is nothing more than a piece of plastic with fake carbon fiber printed on it. Does not look good and is chipped in several places. At least I now have a template to cut out a piece of aluminum.
These forks look like they would be fine for a low speed bike, but I would not recommend them for offroad or high speed due to the thinwall tubing(flex/bending).
After some thought and a beer.......
Think I found an easy solution to the thin tubing. The lower shocks slide over the stock DB fork tubing. If you were to just buy the lower sections, then cut off the stock DB forks 7 3/8" below the lower neck brace, slide the lower shock on, then drill and bolt them on. This would put the axle at exactly the same height as stock DB. Then just cut your stock DB axle spacers to fit.
This would take care of the thinwall tubing issue as it would have the stock DB fork inside full length.
I would consider welding the lowers to the fork, but then you would not be able to take the lowers apart.
After some more thought, I don't think I would drill and bolt them. The tubing in the shocks is just under 1" OD. Some double split clamps and good to go.
The Badger front end showed up today. Mine apparently is a takeoff as there is bolt marks where an axle was installed and the upper forks show where the neck bolt was installed. Some scratches in the paint on the lower shock bodies.
Side by side with the neck bars lined up, the axle sits 1" father from the neck and the handles are 1" shorter towards the neck.
Has the exact same DB fender mount bracket welded on. Steering stops are identical to stock DB. Same handlebar bends
Shiny chrome on really thinwall tubing. Even thinner than the stock DB. The area where the upper and lower forks bolt together is .048" wall thickness. Stock DB is .083" wall. The upper part of these bars is standard .083". Also notice the rust inside the tube. Not just surface rust..
There is no brake caliper mounts.
The lower "shock" bodies have the axle boss cast slightly forward for more caster. Total of 2" of "shock" travel. These only have internal springs, no hydraulics.
As far as the axle spacers and axle bolt, the easiest way I see is using the stock DB axle bolt and cutting the spacers to fit.
I also got the "number plate" which is nothing more than a piece of plastic with fake carbon fiber printed on it. Does not look good and is chipped in several places. At least I now have a template to cut out a piece of aluminum.
These forks look like they would be fine for a low speed bike, but I would not recommend them for offroad or high speed due to the thinwall tubing(flex/bending).
After some thought and a beer.......
Think I found an easy solution to the thin tubing. The lower shocks slide over the stock DB fork tubing. If you were to just buy the lower sections, then cut off the stock DB forks 7 3/8" below the lower neck brace, slide the lower shock on, then drill and bolt them on. This would put the axle at exactly the same height as stock DB. Then just cut your stock DB axle spacers to fit.
This would take care of the thinwall tubing issue as it would have the stock DB fork inside full length.
I would consider welding the lowers to the fork, but then you would not be able to take the lowers apart.
After some more thought, I don't think I would drill and bolt them. The tubing in the shocks is just under 1" OD. Some double split clamps and good to go.
Last edited:
Back to the original premise of this thread....
The Badger front end showed up today. Mine apparently is a takeoff as there is bolt marks where an axle was installed and the upper forks show where the neck bolt was installed. Some scratches in the paint on the lower shock bodies.
Side by side with the neck bars lined up, the axle sits 1" father from the neck and the handles are 1" shorter towards the neck.
Has the exact same DB fender mount bracket welded on. Steering stops are identical to stock DB. Same handlebar bends
Shiny chrome on really thinwall tubing. Even thinner than the stock DB. The area where the upper and lower forks bolt together is .048" wall thickness. Stock DB is .083" wall. The upper part of these bars is standard .083". Also notice the rust inside the tube. Not just surface rust..
There is no brake caliper mounts.
The lower "shock" bodies have the axle boss cast slightly forward for more caster. Total of 2" of "shock" travel. These only have internal springs, no hydraulics.
As far as the axle spacers and axle bolt, the easiest way I see is using the stock DB axle bolt and cutting the spacers to fit.
I also got the "number plate" which is nothing more than a piece of plastic with fake carbon fiber printed on it. Does not look good and is chipped in several places. At least I now have a template to cut out a piece of aluminum.
These forks look like they would be fine for a low speed bike, but I would not recommend them for offroad or high speed due to the thinwall tubing(flex/bending).
After some thought and a beer.......
Think I found an easy solution to the thin tubing. The lower shocks slide over the stock DB fork tubing. If you were to just buy the lower sections, then cut off the stock DB forks 7 3/8" below the lower neck brace, slide the lower shock on, then drill and bolt them on. This would put the axle at exactly the same height as stock DB. Then just cut your stock DB axle spacers to fit.
This would take care of the thinwall tubing issue as it would have the stock DB fork inside full length.
I would consider welding the lowers to the fork, but then you would not be able to take the lowers apart.
After some more thought, I don't think I would drill and bolt them. The tubing in the shocks is just under 1" OD. Some double split clamps and good to go.
The Badger front end showed up today. Mine apparently is a takeoff as there is bolt marks where an axle was installed and the upper forks show where the neck bolt was installed. Some scratches in the paint on the lower shock bodies.
Side by side with the neck bars lined up, the axle sits 1" father from the neck and the handles are 1" shorter towards the neck.
Has the exact same DB fender mount bracket welded on. Steering stops are identical to stock DB. Same handlebar bends
Shiny chrome on really thinwall tubing. Even thinner than the stock DB. The area where the upper and lower forks bolt together is .048" wall thickness. Stock DB is .083" wall. The upper part of these bars is standard .083". Also notice the rust inside the tube. Not just surface rust..
There is no brake caliper mounts.
The lower "shock" bodies have the axle boss cast slightly forward for more caster. Total of 2" of "shock" travel. These only have internal springs, no hydraulics.
As far as the axle spacers and axle bolt, the easiest way I see is using the stock DB axle bolt and cutting the spacers to fit.
I also got the "number plate" which is nothing more than a piece of plastic with fake carbon fiber printed on it. Does not look good and is chipped in several places. At least I now have a template to cut out a piece of aluminum.
These forks look like they would be fine for a low speed bike, but I would not recommend them for offroad or high speed due to the thinwall tubing(flex/bending).
After some thought and a beer.......
Think I found an easy solution to the thin tubing. The lower shocks slide over the stock DB fork tubing. If you were to just buy the lower sections, then cut off the stock DB forks 7 3/8" below the lower neck brace, slide the lower shock on, then drill and bolt them on. This would put the axle at exactly the same height as stock DB. Then just cut your stock DB axle spacers to fit.
This would take care of the thinwall tubing issue as it would have the stock DB fork inside full length.
I would consider welding the lowers to the fork, but then you would not be able to take the lowers apart.
After some more thought, I don't think I would drill and bolt them. The tubing in the shocks is just under 1" OD. Some double split clamps and good to go.
I like the chrome too. I got mine yesterday and overall its of OK quality. Like someone said any increase in suspension over none is a benefit. My Db30 is at my cabin and we still have over a foot of snow yet so it could be a while before I can ride. I will bring my bike home and put on the suspension and post some pictutres too. I am also going to order the hydraulic brake too. My kids lives are worth $50for good stopping power
The cut and slip fit on was a modification I did to my bug several years ago.
Because these are spring only shocks with no dampeners they have to be hard or your front end would oscillate. I drive on rough stuff-mountain logging roads. I'm geared way way down, but it is a billy goat. The shocks help, the front end is strong enough, I tip the scale at 155. The shocks are not enough-I will one day add shocks with dampeners.
Because these are spring only shocks with no dampeners they have to be hard or your front end would oscillate. I drive on rough stuff-mountain logging roads. I'm geared way way down, but it is a billy goat. The shocks help, the front end is strong enough, I tip the scale at 155. The shocks are not enough-I will one day add shocks with dampeners.
Well I installed my Badger 100 front end today and it went very well. I had not had a chance to use it since it was already dark when I finished it. We still have a bit of snow on the ground but I plan on testing it out this weekend and I will let everyone know whether or not it is an improvement over the stock fork. Here is a couple of photos of the finished product.
The cut and slip fit on was a modification I did to my bug several years ago.
Because these are spring only shocks with no dampeners they have to be hard or your front end would oscillate. I drive on rough stuff-mountain logging roads. I'm geared way way down, but it is a billy goat. The shocks help, the front end is strong enough, I tip the scale at 155. The shocks are not enough-I will one day add shocks with dampeners.
Because these are spring only shocks with no dampeners they have to be hard or your front end would oscillate. I drive on rough stuff-mountain logging roads. I'm geared way way down, but it is a billy goat. The shocks help, the front end is strong enough, I tip the scale at 155. The shocks are not enough-I will one day add shocks with dampeners.
Sidebar: Dudleydoodleright: I sent you a PM a couple of weeks ago.
Thank you,
Michael
Creia, I posted about the forks already one page back. If you cut the stock DB forks 7 3/8" below the lower crossbar, slip the Badger lowers on, then drill and bolt or just use two double split 1" clamps. One more thing is to cut the stock DB axle spacers to fit, but use the stock DB axle.
These dampers only have 2" travel. Not much but will take out small bumps. Any increase of suspension over zero is good.
These dampers only have 2" travel. Not much but will take out small bumps. Any increase of suspension over zero is good.
They are much stiffer than that. Im my unscientific experiment, I took one of the fork lowers, stood it up on the bathroom scale and pushed down until I got the full 2" of travel. Approx 120lbs of force required to get the full travel. It took about 30lbs of force to even get them to start moving. Multiply that by 2 and it is actually a good rate for taking up bumps while riding.
Figure that the weight of the bike already will put pressure on the forks, then add rider weight, and they will already be moving by the time you ride off.
Figure that the weight of the bike already will put pressure on the forks, then add rider weight, and they will already be moving by the time you ride off.
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That's good to know. I weigh 195lbs and I assembled my Badger front end and I could push down on the cross member between the handle bars and get the springs to compress but it takes a fair amount of force to do so. I did no experiments with a scale to see how much weight was required so I was just guessing. I agree if they were too soft then the spring would bottom out with the slightest of bumps and could oscillate and make the bike uncontrollable like another person said. I wonder how the spring will hold up. Hopefully it will maintain its stiffness rather than loose it with use. Although they may soften up just a bit and that may be alright too
This is a double split clamp.
Instead of drilling the forks for a bolt which would weaken that part of the fork tube, just clamp the lower on with these clamps.
Instead of drilling the forks for a bolt which would weaken that part of the fork tube, just clamp the lower on with these clamps.