Briggs 5HP Model 130202

[Satio]

I have enjoyed the restoration on a 2HP 60102 from 1975, still need to finish the cosmetics, paint etc, but it is running smooth.

With my success on that project, I got the itch to find a 5HP Briggs to work on that might be a fit for my Keystone project bike.

I ran across a 130202-0135-11 Briggs motor with mfr date 1981 which I pulled off an old tiller that was being scrapped.

I knew going in that it probably had a busted rod and after disassembly that's exactly what I found.

This is a learning project for me.

The cylinder does not look too terrible given what happened to this engine, opinions welcome.

The piston and even the rings seem to be in good shape but I have not yet checked the gap, etc.

There are no breaks or cracks in the block or sump cover.

From my reading, the crank has what I understand are aluminum deposits from the rod heating up at time of failure on the crank journal.

My hope was to be able to get a replacement rod and be able to repair and use this crank.

Is that feasible and what is the best process? From my reading thus far I have seen advice ranging from emery or very fine wet sanding, muriatic acid, and lye.

Thanks in advance for any advice from the experts around here including whether using this as a starting point has chance of success in getting it operational.

 

[CarPlayLB]

Muriatic acid will make quick work of that. I don't know that I would sand it! The acid is very caustic, so please use caution...in the great outdoors. It will also eat anything near the container, so buy as little as you need and dispose of properly! Make sure you coat it with oil when done...you can almost see the rust starting if you don't!

 

[OND]

As CarPlay said ...muriatic acid is your best bet .:thumbsup:

 

[Fantic Freddy]

Me too, I use it to clean rusty gas tanks. It's nasty sh*t, use caution. I dispose of it in my neighbor's swimming pool, after his dog poops in my yard.

 

[Satio]

I appreciate the feedback.

I've used muriatic acid in my handyman history to remove old mortar from tiles needing to be reused for a customer I was doing repairs for.

I learned the hard way that the fumes will rust anything within its range. Ruined alot of tools that week.

Should I create a contraption so I can soak just that area of the crank or should I brush it on repeatedly?

 

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

I did a quick thread on using muriatic acid awhile back. I got a couple of plastic paint containers and notched them to fit the crank (use two so the container does not collapse). The acid really puts out fumes as it first starts eating the aluminum, it'll slow down as the deposits lessen. I moved my cars 200 ft away and kept the dogs inside as it was working (about 3 hrs for me). I recycled the acid into it's container for later disposal. I later used 2800 wet to polish the rod journal and, as Carplay said, oiled it up.

 

[Satio]

Here is the result of the crankshaft clean up. Still want to polish it as suggested by others but there does not appear to be any damage to it once I cleaned it up.



This flywheel key certainly looks like it took a beating and is partially sheared. I am still new to this but I don't believe it is supposed to be offset like this.



In looking up part numbers, it appears that most 2 - 5hp Briggs just use the same key, Part No. 222298S?

 

[Boudreaux in La.]

That crank looks good to me, but the pic is not that clear on my screen....... Yes the key is bad........... It got sheared when the rod took a dump.....

Yes the key is the same on all those models 2 to 6 HP and more....... Maybe find a junker and salvage one or save the trouble and buy 5 at a time for 5 or 6 bux....

Home depot and Lowes has them in stock ~!~!

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

 

[OND]

Crank journal looks good now....it just needs a good polishing ! :thumbsup:

 

[Satio]

The only stupid question I was once told is the one you don't ask..... so without further ado...

I've got block and all the parts cleaned up and painted and have started reassembly. Turned out pretty good and at least to my liking for my first repair, restoration on this '81

On the bottom component of the connecting rod, is there a "front" "back" or "left" "right" to this or does it matter?

I had to replace the connecting rod which I took from a donor motor and I didn't mark it when I took it apart.

I can't really see any difference in how it mates up to the top half of the rod if I swap it either way.

 

[Harquebus]

...On the bottom component of the connecting rod, is there a "front" "back" or "left" "right" to this or does it matter?

YES! The con rod and rod cap is marked and oriented in a certain way and should be properly oriented upon reassembly.

On my photo, you can see twin casting notches on the con rod and rod cap and that they are on the side of the block NOT facing the cam gear. Mine is a 130000 series 5 horse.

Make sure you also orient the oil dipper (if it's the asymmetrical style) so it does not make contact with the block during any part of its revolution. That's a racing/performance oil dipper by the way.

The green slime is engine assembly lube.

 

[Satio]

Got it.

Thank you.