The cam only be installed 180° out if you don't line up the dots. You did it correctly by the sound of it.
Do you know how thick the can wall actually is?
Although a good feeler gauge set is indispensible for the toolbox, I think 0.004-0.006" intake and 0.006-0.008" exhaust clearance would be fine.
The problem with drilling jets is that twist drills always make a hole slightly larger than their actual diameter. Reamers are the only way to get an accurate diameter and they each cost at least 200-500% what a new jet does. On top of that, the only way to accurately check the final I.D. is with pin gauges. Again, each are 200-500% the cost of a new jet.
Without having one to look at, that screw probably sets the idle slide stop. You should be able to see the slide creep up or down when it's turned.
That can sometimes be indicative of a lean idle mixture.
Hard starting isn't usually caused by an octane issue; mixture or ignition are more common culprits. I would classify the Black Mamba as a moderately aggressive cam. Does it come with a cam card that has advertised duration? Tim's site only has the 0.050" specs, which I can't use use for figuring out overlap.
One feature that digital EFI/ignition controllers will spoil you with is the ability to set really conservative advance numbers for cranking and starting. It can be pulled back to 10° BTDC during cranking, or even less, to help get high compression engines spinning. I am not a fan of locked-out timing for engines that have a dynamic load range. Once a utility engine is taken off of the generator or pump, that's what happens. I'm really thinking about injecting the GX340 I have...
Do you know how thick the can wall actually is?
Although a good feeler gauge set is indispensible for the toolbox, I think 0.004-0.006" intake and 0.006-0.008" exhaust clearance would be fine.
The problem with drilling jets is that twist drills always make a hole slightly larger than their actual diameter. Reamers are the only way to get an accurate diameter and they each cost at least 200-500% what a new jet does. On top of that, the only way to accurately check the final I.D. is with pin gauges. Again, each are 200-500% the cost of a new jet.
Without having one to look at, that screw probably sets the idle slide stop. You should be able to see the slide creep up or down when it's turned.
That can sometimes be indicative of a lean idle mixture.
Hard starting isn't usually caused by an octane issue; mixture or ignition are more common culprits. I would classify the Black Mamba as a moderately aggressive cam. Does it come with a cam card that has advertised duration? Tim's site only has the 0.050" specs, which I can't use use for figuring out overlap.
One feature that digital EFI/ignition controllers will spoil you with is the ability to set really conservative advance numbers for cranking and starting. It can be pulled back to 10° BTDC during cranking, or even less, to help get high compression engines spinning. I am not a fan of locked-out timing for engines that have a dynamic load range. Once a utility engine is taken off of the generator or pump, that's what happens. I'm really thinking about injecting the GX340 I have...
