DB-30 w/ HF 6.5 (governor removal)

[tdishon]

Ok, ok. Everyone has discussed and shown how to crack open the case and remove the centrifical weights and shaft of the governor from the clone and then plug the case. (great write ups by the way)
My question is: Why can't we just disconnect the arm on the outside so it's not functioning? would the engine be able to rev higher? I hope this is not a stupid question. I'm not to keen on cracking open the case and having a couple parts fall out and not be too sure where they're supposed to go...
Thank you for any feedback.
P.S. The Cjtmini kit for the 6.5 is great!

 

[born loser]

because the parts inside might fly apart and blow up your engine.:thumbdown:
Its been done, but might be risky.:wink:

 

[Ronald]

You take great risk of over reaving your engine and it tearing itself apart
removing the governor.

Bad idea to remove it! BE WARNED!!!!!!!
:doah:

 

[Modding_out]

You take great risk of over reaving your engine and it tearing itself apart
removing the governor.

Bad idea to remove it! BE WARNED!!!!!!!
:doah:

You are greatly misinformed... With the proper replacement parts (aka the con rod) you engine isn't going to bow up. and in 9 out of ten times you'll get valve float before your rpm is any were near ripping up the engine.

 

[Strigoi]

You take great risk of over reaving your engine and it tearing itself apart
removing the governor.

Bad idea to remove it! BE WARNED!!!!!!!
:doah:

You are greatly misinformed... With the proper replacement parts (aka the con rod) you engine isn't going to bow up. and in 9 out of ten times you'll get valve float before your rpm is any were near ripping up the engine.

what he said.

you don't have much experience with these motors do you?

 

[mhornfeck72205]

I'm running this engine on all stock parts pretty hard at about 5500rpm and still no signs of problems. I was worried about the gov. at first but as long as you drive it like you would drive your own car(aka: dont redline and keep it WOT), you will be fine. Receiving my billet rod, air filter, springs, and flat top piston on wednesday!

 

[tdishon]

mhornfeck72205,
Are you running with all the governor parts in place, but just disconnected?

 

[Strigoi]

i doubt he is and you might as well just take it all out. even if stuff does fall out it's no big deal. many of us on here know our way around these engines and could tell you exactly how to get it all back together.

 

[tdishon]

I'm going to crack it open and remove the govenor this weekend. Thanks for all the support. Especially if I need help with any left over parts...
Should I wait and just replace the rod at the same time? How hard of a job is swapping the rod? :hammer: I have tools and a torque wrench. Do I need a ring compressor?

 

[deadly_squash]

found these vids on you tube that might help with that. In the video he doesn't talk about putting in a rod though.

part 1: YouTube - how to get a 6.5 hp clone engine race ready part 1 of 4
Part 2: YouTube - how to get a 6.5 hp clone engine race ready part 2 of 4
part 3: YouTube - how to get a 6.5 hp clone engine race ready part 3 of 4
part 4: YouTube - how to get a 6.5 hp clone engine race ready part 4 of 4

 

[Strigoi]

Should I wait and just replace the rod at the same time? How hard of a job is swapping the rod? :hammer: I have tools and a torque wrench. Do I need a ring compressor?

i'd do it at the same time since you'll have the engine partially pulled apart already. you'll need an inch lbs. torque wrench and a 12pt. 1/4" socket for the rod bolts. a ring compressor isn't needed, but it makes it a lot easier IMO. i picked one up for $8 from Harbor Freight.

the rod swap is pretty easy overall.