DB/Predator fan club!
- Thread starter Oldscool
- Start date
wow... thanks:smile:
ok...
frame :
shaved fender brackets
powder coated semi gloss
sawed stock bars off
parts:
212 pred hemi
stage 2 kit from HRMB
hyd brake kit (replaced master cyl. off amazon, brake hose locally)
handle bars from motovox
bar clamps from cycle gear (cost too much, but they fit nicely)
RLV gold chain from OldMiniBikes
sprocket adaptor w/ 60 tooth
no serious mods, mostly "plug & play"
The seat foam was way too stiff so it's under reconstruction.
I'm gonna spend alittle more time on the shape, should gain 2 mph.
I'm 10mi. out of Knoxville, hit me up.
I take care of my neighbors.:thumbsup:
ok...
frame :
shaved fender brackets
powder coated semi gloss
sawed stock bars off
parts:
212 pred hemi
stage 2 kit from HRMB
hyd brake kit (replaced master cyl. off amazon, brake hose locally)
handle bars from motovox
bar clamps from cycle gear (cost too much, but they fit nicely)
RLV gold chain from OldMiniBikes
sprocket adaptor w/ 60 tooth
no serious mods, mostly "plug & play"
The seat foam was way too stiff so it's under reconstruction.
I'm gonna spend alittle more time on the shape, should gain 2 mph.
I'm 10mi. out of Knoxville, hit me up.
I take care of my neighbors.:thumbsup:
Yeah.... pics were taken before I gased it. It was like 32 F at that time.
Expense... well it's my first mini bike and I could have got 3 colemans for what it cost.
I didn't have plan, I was freestyling!
Rebuilding th DB vs. dropping 350$ for a mint coleman?
It's just two different things, they can't be compared.
I have about 5 miles on it. Let my son ride it... he's banned!
Yes, I do have thoughts of mounting it like a deer head.
But thats not gonna happen. I have a 80 model moped and a
fat tire E-bike.
For me, ridin th DB is not about going some where.
I'm not a mini bike Enthusiast, just scratching an itch.
Been there-Done that.... turn th page .
Well bicycle brake parts won't work on a doodlebug.
the reason I was looking for different brake parts was the brakes were
locking up when applied. I pulled the pads out to see if I could
tell what was causing them to bind up . the edge of the pad on the metal backing had some
of the black paint wore off. I used my side grinder with a flap disc and polished the edges.
Not more binding.
the reason I was looking for different brake parts was the brakes were
locking up when applied. I pulled the pads out to see if I could
tell what was causing them to bind up . the edge of the pad on the metal backing had some
of the black paint wore off. I used my side grinder with a flap disc and polished the edges.
Not more binding.
Well bicycle brake parts won't work on a doodlebug.
the reason I was looking for different brake parts was the brakes were
locking up when applied. I pulled the pads out to see if I could
tell what was causing them to bind up . the edge of the pad on the metal backing had some
of the black paint wore off. I used my side grinder with a flap disc and polished the edges.
Not more binding.
the reason I was looking for different brake parts was the brakes were
locking up when applied. I pulled the pads out to see if I could
tell what was causing them to bind up . the edge of the pad on the metal backing had some
of the black paint wore off. I used my side grinder with a flap disc and polished the edges.
Not more binding.
Impossible to say what jet will work. There are a ton of factors that come into play when it comes to jetting (elevation being big one). I'd start with whatever it came with and see how it runs. You can read the plug to see if it's running lean/rich or maybe just tell by how it's running. You can find jet kits that will have multiple sizes, just be sure to get the right ones for that carb.
Since you'll be running a slide carb, you won't be able to run the governor anymore. That will need to be removed from inside the case and it's very highly recommended to install a billet rod and a billet or PVL flywheel at that point. The stock rod becomes the weak link once the governor is removed and can window the block when it lets go (that rod is NOT designed to spin at 5,000+ rpm, it doesn't even have a bearing). Once you change one thing, you often have to do other supporting mods to safely run that part. The stock flywheel is also a safety concern then and they can send you to the hospital if they decide to come apart. A lot of the time it will just be a magnet that comes off, which will most likely ruin your engine. I have seen pics of flywheels that have ended up in multiple pieces as well. You DO NOT want to get hit by a piece of it.
Since you'll be running a slide carb, you won't be able to run the governor anymore. That will need to be removed from inside the case and it's very highly recommended to install a billet rod and a billet or PVL flywheel at that point. The stock rod becomes the weak link once the governor is removed and can window the block when it lets go (that rod is NOT designed to spin at 5,000+ rpm, it doesn't even have a bearing). Once you change one thing, you often have to do other supporting mods to safely run that part. The stock flywheel is also a safety concern then and they can send you to the hospital if they decide to come apart. A lot of the time it will just be a magnet that comes off, which will most likely ruin your engine. I have seen pics of flywheels that have ended up in multiple pieces as well. You DO NOT want to get hit by a piece of it.