My later model DB has what look like bearings but do not spin at all , I thought it was just from sitting but I got another rear wheel assembly and the bearings on it do not spin! Does anyone know what size actual bearings the stock hub will take? I already know I will probably have to use a different axle as it is not standard size. And that is no problem I just want to roll smoothly!:hammer:
What?
If the bearing has a number its standard Supernova. I used to change something on the order a 45 gallon drum a month ( that's a lot of scrap high grade steel ). Some as small quarter some as big as your head....
They all had number and could be ordered.
That much said if you take care of a set of bearing they can last a good long time.But I don't think the quality of the Chinese bearings is so good. So buy a set of SKF or FAGs and be done with it. There are now a variety of seal suffix numbers available I don't recognize and I am running some on my MB165 intended for snow machines. So far I think I like them....
If you got season out of your OEM bearings they don't own you anything so change them. While you have everything apart fill the void inside the wheel hub of jack shaft 1/3 full with a premium quality Moly #1 grease. You will thank me later when everything comes apart rust free and clean.
Aklands Grainger ( might just be called Grainger in the USA ) has bearings...
Grease: Exxon Moly EP-1 is what I like to use ( EP-2 is just as good but thicker I like a softer grease )
Any good machine shop will have the EASA electric motor bearing fit tables for the go no go shaft and housing sizes if you spun a bearing you should mic the housing....
I can't think of any more info right now
There are other options too you could install a grease fitting and purge port and run some shielded rather than sealed bearings. I like that idea since it means you can easily regrease your bearings and do it as often as needed.
In any event its not a bad idea once a year to strip everything and check it out ( if you ride a lot that is and in wet dirty conditions ). A sealed bearing can be opened up, cleaned and repacked ( I do this often if the bearings is in good shape ).
Supenova if you just paid 11 dollars for 2 bearings shipped don't complain thats not bad. But if you went to a bearings suplier he would probably handed you a pair for 1.99 each out of the back where there likely a case of them. Maybe my MB165 uses a 6202 ( not sure forget now ) but I got what I needed from the local auto parts store a couple of blocks from my home for a couple of bucks.
If the bearing has a number its standard Supernova. I used to change something on the order a 45 gallon drum a month ( that's a lot of scrap high grade steel ). Some as small quarter some as big as your head....
They all had number and could be ordered.
That much said if you take care of a set of bearing they can last a good long time.But I don't think the quality of the Chinese bearings is so good. So buy a set of SKF or FAGs and be done with it. There are now a variety of seal suffix numbers available I don't recognize and I am running some on my MB165 intended for snow machines. So far I think I like them....
If you got season out of your OEM bearings they don't own you anything so change them. While you have everything apart fill the void inside the wheel hub of jack shaft 1/3 full with a premium quality Moly #1 grease. You will thank me later when everything comes apart rust free and clean.
Aklands Grainger ( might just be called Grainger in the USA ) has bearings...
Grease: Exxon Moly EP-1 is what I like to use ( EP-2 is just as good but thicker I like a softer grease )
Any good machine shop will have the EASA electric motor bearing fit tables for the go no go shaft and housing sizes if you spun a bearing you should mic the housing....
I can't think of any more info right now
There are other options too you could install a grease fitting and purge port and run some shielded rather than sealed bearings. I like that idea since it means you can easily regrease your bearings and do it as often as needed.
In any event its not a bad idea once a year to strip everything and check it out ( if you ride a lot that is and in wet dirty conditions ). A sealed bearing can be opened up, cleaned and repacked ( I do this often if the bearings is in good shape ).
Supenova if you just paid 11 dollars for 2 bearings shipped don't complain thats not bad. But if you went to a bearings suplier he would probably handed you a pair for 1.99 each out of the back where there likely a case of them. Maybe my MB165 uses a 6202 ( not sure forget now ) but I got what I needed from the local auto parts store a couple of blocks from my home for a couple of bucks.
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I dont see a # but I need glasses, just too stubborn to get them. Thanks for the info! The bearings I use on my classic minis will not fit (standard 1 /38 od) and like I said the new Baja Dirtbug and the older one are my first chinese bikes. I like them fine but it seems stupid that parts are not all standard. Of course it took me a while to get used to import autos!
If everything was standard all bolts would be Whitworth or worse Railway 13 tpi.....
I looked it up its a 6201 for your bike, no big deal
Nothing is standard, even old standards aren't standard anymore. Buisness finds a good reason to alter everything eventualy lol.
Remember the grease thing that will save you a lot of trouble if you fill the inside of the hub and jack shaft 1/3 full.
I looked it up its a 6201 for your bike, no big deal
Nothing is standard, even old standards aren't standard anymore. Buisness finds a good reason to alter everything eventualy lol.
Remember the grease thing that will save you a lot of trouble if you fill the inside of the hub and jack shaft 1/3 full.
I get my bearings at Reid Supply. I have had good luck even with their Chinese bearings. However a nsk skf fag timken nbz is always going to be better. Item No: PRB-257 [12mm Nom I.D., 32mm Nom. O.D., 10mm Wide, 6201-2RS-C3 Bearing Designation, Two Seals, Metric 6200 Series, Peer Ball Bearings] A 6201 is about one of the most common bearings out there, you could probably pick one up at a local True Value hardware store if you didnt want to wait for shipping.
AH I knew this would come up.
What is the difference between a 6201 and a 201????
I am a bit rusty now but off the top of my head I believe the 201 is what was called a Maxi Ball bearing. The didn't have a cage so there was room for an extra ball. These were a low speed bearing designed for heavier loads ( the number 30% higher come to mind but... )
They look the same untill you take them apart and I guess they would interchange in this aplication but its been a few years. Safest thing is put in what you took out, but sometimes the bearing dealers can make sugestions and offer different bearing for special aplications.
As I recall the 200 and 300 bearings were what we called the bearing of last resort for low speed High radial loads that were killing 6200 and 6300 series bearings.
As a further note there are also special clearence bearings. Hot running high speed bearings usualy have a C3 suffex. This means there is little more room inside for expansion. You can also use a 6201 c3 on your mini if you like you will never notice the difference. There was a time when I had " golden hands "
I could feel that C3 clearence and distinguish between it and a bearing to shaft or housing fits that were worn. I can't do that now though lol.
Its important to know that bearings warm up and cool down in use and they generaly move a little in the housing where they are mounted ( they slowly spin in the direction of rotation ). They must move for proper even wear and they must have the correct clearence to the shafts and housing. If not they will wear out faster than normal ( especaly if too tight or the out of round ).
Lock tight is not a fix for a fit issue unless your parts are scrap and your just trying to buy some time.
Todays bearings ( if you buy a good brand ) should last longer than any other part of your bike. The alloys, heat treating and griding are so good and consistent that all they realy need to last is the proper lubrication, to be kept clean and not be damaged from shock or hitting ( called brinelling damage little dents in the balls or races from eg hammer blows Thats why cars are strapped a little loose on trains to prevent the wheel bearings from being dent as the truck rolls down the rails just a bit of front back movent is enough to let them roll rather than hit in reaction to the joints in the rail ).
What is the difference between a 6201 and a 201????
I am a bit rusty now but off the top of my head I believe the 201 is what was called a Maxi Ball bearing. The didn't have a cage so there was room for an extra ball. These were a low speed bearing designed for heavier loads ( the number 30% higher come to mind but... )
They look the same untill you take them apart and I guess they would interchange in this aplication but its been a few years. Safest thing is put in what you took out, but sometimes the bearing dealers can make sugestions and offer different bearing for special aplications.
As I recall the 200 and 300 bearings were what we called the bearing of last resort for low speed High radial loads that were killing 6200 and 6300 series bearings.
As a further note there are also special clearence bearings. Hot running high speed bearings usualy have a C3 suffex. This means there is little more room inside for expansion. You can also use a 6201 c3 on your mini if you like you will never notice the difference. There was a time when I had " golden hands "
I could feel that C3 clearence and distinguish between it and a bearing to shaft or housing fits that were worn. I can't do that now though lol.
Its important to know that bearings warm up and cool down in use and they generaly move a little in the housing where they are mounted ( they slowly spin in the direction of rotation ). They must move for proper even wear and they must have the correct clearence to the shafts and housing. If not they will wear out faster than normal ( especaly if too tight or the out of round ).
Lock tight is not a fix for a fit issue unless your parts are scrap and your just trying to buy some time.
Todays bearings ( if you buy a good brand ) should last longer than any other part of your bike. The alloys, heat treating and griding are so good and consistent that all they realy need to last is the proper lubrication, to be kept clean and not be damaged from shock or hitting ( called brinelling damage little dents in the balls or races from eg hammer blows Thats why cars are strapped a little loose on trains to prevent the wheel bearings from being dent as the truck rolls down the rails just a bit of front back movent is enough to let them roll rather than hit in reaction to the joints in the rail ).
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There are several seal and shield suffexes I am not familiar with now.
Used to be common to have the 2RS or 2Z on the shelf and not even think about it other types. For snow machines now I see there are several improved seals, those might be worth looking at. I have a set of NTN bearings generaly used for track suspension on my MB165 that seem to have a softer thicker rubber compound.
Like I said the bearing venders know their products and often can sugest better stuff.
The Chinese however use all kinds of wierd crap packed wityh Yak fat for grease. In some cases the even use a 2Z instead of seal ( I think thats a mistake unless you have a way to great them externaly
Used to be common to have the 2RS or 2Z on the shelf and not even think about it other types. For snow machines now I see there are several improved seals, those might be worth looking at. I have a set of NTN bearings generaly used for track suspension on my MB165 that seem to have a softer thicker rubber compound.
Like I said the bearing venders know their products and often can sugest better stuff.
The Chinese however use all kinds of wierd crap packed wityh Yak fat for grease. In some cases the even use a 2Z instead of seal ( I think thats a mistake unless you have a way to great them externaly