Throw the oil to it and run it at 2 to 3000 rpm's for about 30 minutes , then I let mine cool down for a 30 minutes. Then I usually put mine on the bike / kart and run the wheels off it . After I run mine for a hour or so I change the oil again and still use the Rotella in it.
I do the same thing when breaking in a new cam shaft good oil (no synthetic) and a high rpm for about 30 minutes.
I do the same thing when breaking in a new cam shaft good oil (no synthetic) and a high rpm for about 30 minutes.
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Valvoline or Mobile1 10w-30 & run it. After reading the post on oils & what the guy who wrote the research said, an engine will break in just fine with a good full synthetic.
The old BS about rings not seating with a full synthetic is just that, complete BS, they will cut if they move & having good lubrication (film strength) at the bearing surfaces is critical to NOT wearing too much. Next time I'm going to run one with 5w-30 for break in (got a case of Mobile1 on sale at Costco). The "thin" part of a multi-vis oil is important when it starts up & begins running cold. The "thick" part is for more heat later on. Mobile1 scored high marks for most categories & did really well in a high heat situation (read air cooled engine).
The most important part of all this is to change the oil frequently in an air cooled motor & keep it clean on the inside. Using a good oil which will stand up to higher temps will do a lot to keep an engine running well & help stay fresher for longer. Nothing lasts for ever!
This is a long-winded & technical article, but it was researched well & makes some good points about oil, viscosity & lubrication. I like how the evaluations were done with different properties being studied individually & then a ranking of the oils for different applications. He also gets into additives & the effect they have on oils. It takes forever to read, but is time well spent.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
The old BS about rings not seating with a full synthetic is just that, complete BS, they will cut if they move & having good lubrication (film strength) at the bearing surfaces is critical to NOT wearing too much. Next time I'm going to run one with 5w-30 for break in (got a case of Mobile1 on sale at Costco). The "thin" part of a multi-vis oil is important when it starts up & begins running cold. The "thick" part is for more heat later on. Mobile1 scored high marks for most categories & did really well in a high heat situation (read air cooled engine).
The most important part of all this is to change the oil frequently in an air cooled motor & keep it clean on the inside. Using a good oil which will stand up to higher temps will do a lot to keep an engine running well & help stay fresher for longer. Nothing lasts for ever!
This is a long-winded & technical article, but it was researched well & makes some good points about oil, viscosity & lubrication. I like how the evaluations were done with different properties being studied individually & then a ranking of the oils for different applications. He also gets into additives & the effect they have on oils. It takes forever to read, but is time well spent.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
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Not much for these small engines. Make sure they are full of oil and run them. And if possible, run them under load. The last mini bike engine that I "broke in" was the Hisun engine on a Coleman. It was initially started without a clutch attached and rev tested to check throttle response and idle speed. Then the bike was ridden, and ridden hard.
For my work clones they were started, idled a few seconds, then placed at full throttle to blow snow or leaves. I'm sure they broke in a few minutes after they hit normal operating temp.
Generator with a Ducar 208cc. Started it, and apply loads to it for 20 minutes then changed the oil.
Small block Ford 289. Started it, ran it for 20 minutes at 2K RPM's. Changed the oil then ran it hard.
Question.... If you buy a brand new lawnmower, do you do a break procedure, or do you start it and cut the grass? I would start it up and cut the grass. I think it just depends on what you are braking in to how careful you want to be.:smile:
For my work clones they were started, idled a few seconds, then placed at full throttle to blow snow or leaves. I'm sure they broke in a few minutes after they hit normal operating temp.
Generator with a Ducar 208cc. Started it, and apply loads to it for 20 minutes then changed the oil.
Small block Ford 289. Started it, ran it for 20 minutes at 2K RPM's. Changed the oil then ran it hard.
Question.... If you buy a brand new lawnmower, do you do a break procedure, or do you start it and cut the grass? I would start it up and cut the grass. I think it just depends on what you are braking in to how careful you want to be.:smile:
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