Gov/Throttle Postion when starting?

[DSLDAW]

Hi,Does anybody know if the throttle should be wide open,before it starts,
since my was being held open,even after it started,and the choke was
acting like the throttle instead? Does the throttle and gov arm suppose to
close back to the idle position,once it starts? I have the throttle cable
installed,so that it's practically holding the throttle at idle,with a spring
attatched to the opposite side of the gov swingarm,to keep it at idle and
to make the throttle function. Will this damage the engine,if the gov is
either on or off at start-up?My Tec. seemed to run fine with a setup like
this,but my Honda,who knows?Thanks.

 

[Strigoi]

you don't want it wide open when it starts. i've done that on accident before and the when it starts, the bike takes off. you should post some pics of how you have everything set up. someone should be able to tell you if you need to change anything.

 

[DSLDAW]

you don't want it wide open when it starts. i've done that on accident before and the when it starts, the bike takes off. you should post some pics of how you have everything set up. someone should be able to tell you if you need to change anything.

I know that common sense tells me,that the throttle should be at idle,when it
starts,but it was set up before I got the engine,where it was practically
wide open and stayed there,so I had to use the choke to act as a throttle.
Someone also said on the Tec. Forum,that the throttle should be midway open,and once it started,should close to idle,but that just doesn't sound
right,either? My main concern is the govenor. Not too sure how it operates
inside the engine,and just didn't want too take any chances on damaging the
engine,if I didn't have it setup right,that's all. Thanks for the repy.

 

[Strigoi]

are you 100% sure you aren't mixing up the throttle and choke controls? post some pics of how it's set up, it would make this much easier to figure out.

 

[Fullthrottle]

The way your explaining it, sounds like you think the choke is the throttle and the throttle is the choke???? Post pics of the assembly!!!






Together we stand-Divided we fall. Mini's forever!

 

[DSLDAW]

are you 100% sure you aren't mixing up the throttle and choke controls? post some pics of how it's set up, it would make this much easier to figure out.

I'm not mixing them up,it's just that the linkage was making the throttle
stay wide open all the time for some reason. The choke is the first butterfly,
closest to the air filter,and the throttle is in the middle of the carb,with the
rod and spring around it,that connects to the gov. swingarm. I'll take some
pics,when my wife comes home after work with the camera.Since the throttle
was always open,even at idle,I had to keep the choke all the way closed,
to keep it at idle,then open up the choke some,to let air into the carb that
way. It at first had me thinking that they were opposite,like you were saying
I might be thinking.Once I took the gas tank and carb cover off,then I could
better see what was going on,and why I thought the choke was the throttle.
Honda's have the carb almost completely covered with the air filter housing.
I was so used to using gas welders,where they have the lever for the throttle that has a turtle for slow and a rabbit for fast ,which looks so much
like my Honda 5.5. I feel like an idiot,but the engine had me a little confused
at first,as to what was what,not very familiar with little engines.Thanks for
the reply.ut:

 

[Fullthrottle]

Do you have a return spring for your throttle? Sounds like your missing the throttle spring. That spring keeps the throttle assembly on the carb in idle position. If you understand what I'm talking about, check it out.

 

[DSLDAW]

Do you have a return spring for your throttle? Sounds like your missing the throttle spring. That spring keeps the throttle assembly on the carb in idle position. If you understand what I'm talking about, check it out.

Yes,it's mounted on the side of the gov. swingarm,that's opposite the throttle
cable,which is keeping the throttle at idle and gives the cable a way of returning,once I let off the throttle hand grip.I think I may have made you
guys think that I don't know what's going on with setting up the throttle
or linkages. The only issue I'm worried about,is if I could damage the engine,
if the govenor is either out of adjustment,or engaged or disengaged,while
at idle or full throttle,that's all? Could damage occur if say the gov. was
engaged at idle,or not engaged at full throttle,or vise versa?Thanks.

 

[Fullthrottle]

If the governer is engaged "hooked-up", you won't be harming the motor. If you disengage the governer outside linkage, yes you could harm the motor because the governer "gear" inside the motor is still hooked-up. At high revs this gear might give and ruin your motors gut internally. You really should use the search button of this site. Members who really know and have done this post exactly what needs to be done internally. They know their shit! "SEARCH FEATURE" is your beat friend right now!







Together we stand-Divided we fall. Mini's forever!

 

[Fullthrottle]

Not beat friend, but you know, it's your BEST FRIEND!






Together we stand-Divided we fall. Mini's forever!

 

[DSLDAW]

If the governer is engaged "hooked-up", you won't be harming the motor. If you disengage the governer outside linkage, yes you could harm the motor because the governer "gear" inside the motor is still hooked-up. At high revs this gear might give and ruin your motors gut internally. You really should use the search button of this site. Members who really know and have done this post exactly what needs to be done internally. They know their shit! "SEARCH FEATURE" is your beat friend right now!







Together we stand-Divided we fall. Mini's forever!

Thanks Alot,I'm not going to disconnect the linkage or guts of the gov.,just
not sure if it was safe to run the engine,even though I'm not sure how it's
setup,if it will work or not work the way I have it setup and adjusted. I did
not loosen the swing arm holding screw,so hopefully the way it was before
I got the engine,should be fine. Thanks again. Just didn't want to blow this,
my only other good engine,that will actually start on the first pull and not
kill me like my big 10hp Tec. does, with the locking up issue of the starter.:thumbsup:

 

[Fullthrottle]

Good Luck!:thumbsup:





Together we stand-Divided we fall. Mini's forever!

 

[GTO]

The Gov pulls back on the throttle when the engine starts. (closing it) That is normal.

 

[DSLDAW]

The Gov pulls back on the throttle when the engine starts. (closing it) That is normal.

Thanks Full throttle and GTO. I feel a lot better now,knowing when I go
to start her up on Friday,that she won't hopefully granade on me. I don't
like anything governed either,that's why I'm not familiar with them.If I take
all the guts out for the gov.,will the engine rev to 6K,from the stock 3,600
RPM,I'm assuming? One step at a time,though. Won't touch the gov.,until
I get her running good first. Thanks alot guys,I'll give you all a halla,once
she's up and running,with some pics also. Peace out.:thumbsup:

 

[Strigoi]

if the governor is working, you won't go into the blow stuff up zone.

you should still post some pics, at least it could help other members that come across this post when doing a search.

 

[GTO]

Thanks Full throttle and GTO. I feel a lot better now,knowing when I go
to start her up on Friday,that she won't hopefully granade on me. I don't
like anything governed either,that's why I'm not familiar with them.If I take
all the guts out for the gov.,will the engine rev to 6K,from the stock 3,600
RPM,I'm assuming? One step at a time,though. Won't touch the gov.,until
I get her running good first. Thanks alot guys,I'll give you all a halla,once
she's up and running,with some pics also. Peace out.:thumbsup:

On a new engine or modded bike, I always prop the rear wheel off the ground just in case. :thumbsup:

The gov works by pulling back on the throttle when the RPM's gets to a certain point , the OHV engine seem to all have throttle that aren't closed when not running, if it's working right the gov quickly pulls back on the throttle when started.

Some OHV Tecumsehs will have a pulsing/surging idle and I've had to adjust the the gov arm while holding the throttle open (engine off) and that solves the problem leaving a smooth idle. Sounds weird but thats how it works.

Do take the gov out unless you know what your doing and you'll have to redo your linkage/throttle.

 

[wfc]

Hi DSLDAW,

Simply removing the governor without any other modifications such as stronger valve springs porting, skimming the head, bigger carb or cam will not result in the type of rpms you are talking about. I have a gx 240 with gx390 carb, header exhaust, ported head, 6 degrees advance and the rpm is only in the early 5k's. The difference in torque, and the much widened torque band is however brilliant.

 

[DSLDAW]

Hi DSLDAW,

Simply removing the governor without any other modifications such as stronger valve springs porting, skimming the head, bigger carb or cam will not result in the type of rpms you are talking about. I have a gx 240 with gx390 carb, header exhaust, ported head, 6 degrees advance and the rpm is only in the early 5k's. The difference in torque, and the much widened torque band is however brilliant.

Thanks. Really have no idea about what rpms these small engines are
running at except around 3600 stock,is this correct? I'm not going to
touch the govenor's gut's,since that requires opening the crankcase,
and I'm, not going to modify the internals yet,so I'll just enjoy the
bike the way it is for now. Until I get so bored with the lame performance,
then I'll get into some mods. The only modification I've done was the exhaust,
so far. Cut the square spark arrestor/poor excuse for a muffler off,and
welded a pc. of bent pipe to send the exhaust out the middle of the rear
of the bike. Not up into my butt and leg,like the stock box setup was
doing. Will this be O.K.? Do I need the spark arrestor or whatever that is
suppose to do? Just don't want to take a chance on damaging the engine,
especially over something as stupid as an exhaust system.:hack:

 

[wfc]

Hi DSLDAW,

Removing the stock muffler and spark arrestor is fine, it is one of the first steps to getting the motor to flow a bit better. The stock system is realy not designed with any kind of real performance in mind. You may have to find out if your state has an issue with removing spark arestors. Where I come from it isnt a problem. I can understand your hesitance to do some major surgery to the motor. There are however quite a few things you can do without opening up the motor. I would definately sugest that you advance the timing on your engine, as it will work very well with your new freer flowing exhaust. Your horsepower won't necesarily increase dramatically, but the drivability will vastly improve. The motor should produce power a lot lower down in the rev range, and keep it there longer. Advancing the timing is a quick job, with a lot of reward. It simply involves removing the flywheel and either fitting a new modified key, or if you cannot source one (like me) you can always modify your own.

 

[DSLDAW]

Hi DSLDAW,

Removing the stock muffler and spark arrestor is fine, it is one of the first steps to getting the motor to flow a bit better. The stock system is realy not designed with any kind of real performance in mind. You may have to find out if your state has an issue with removing spark arestors. Where I come from it isnt a problem. I can understand your hesitance to do some major surgery to the motor. There are however quite a few things you can do without opening up the motor. I would definately sugest that you advance the timing on your engine, as it will work very well with your new freer flowing exhaust. Your horsepower won't necesarily increase dramatically, but the drivability will vastly improve. The motor should produce power a lot lower down in the rev range, and keep it there longer. Advancing the timing is a quick job, with a lot of reward. It simply involves removing the flywheel and either fitting a new modified key, or if you cannot source one (like me) you can always modify your own.

Do you mean needing a different size key stock for the crank,or something
totally different? I was a car mechanic for 5 years and an industrial mechanic
for the last 15,so there's not much I can't do,just not that familiar with
small engines,that's all. The timing is done by the cam gear on the cam,right?
I don't have to break the crankcase open to adjust the timing,that's cool?