help choosing a cam

#1
well now i need a cam for my baja heat i guess you really shouldent run 26lb springs with the stock cam! lol the intake lobe is almost gone.
so here is the motors specs.
hf clone
ported and milled head .060
cm pushrods
arc .020 longer rod
gov gone
mikuni 22mm
stud kit
arc flywheel
8deg key
file fit rings on stock dished piston
1.3 rockers
I would like a cam that makes good torque and still rev to about 7,000rpm hell i want it to have good yank out the hole and then haul the mail all the way to 7grand it dosent have to sound radical i just want it to work well :thumbsup: i have an idea what i want to run.
this is it but will it work for my application.
Camshaft 274-MARINE, Special grind for Marine and Winch Boarding applications. Extreme torque. Designed for 3500 to 7500 RPM, 11 to 1 or Lower compression ratio required, 26 lb Springs required NRC-274-9810
 
Last edited:

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#6
:doah:i looked at the price daaammmmm! but you get what you pay for.
Well that's because one cams makes more power than another. The AGK cams all started out as custom cams then transformed into regular off the shelf cams that anyone can buy.

I personally run the .290 cam myself, works just as good but bigger.
 
#7
I like Boobs.

I realy like big boobs, but there comes a point when size begins to interfere with other things. Sure you can get lady into a good sports bra and try and take her out for a jog but things don't work out ( or bounce out a lot depends on speed and gate this also plays into my later point about normal moving habbits ect ). Crumbs and spegetti sauce always land in one place and you get a slap for trying to help clean up in public and then of course comes the invitable back pain associated....

Cams are a lot like boobs.
I like look of big radical lobes.
I like envy in other people's eyes to a big cam and the satistcis
I like the way they make things wigle and walk down road when your truckin.....

But as in all things too much cam like too much boob can cause you some grief. Small cams don't steal the show, they don't cause rubber necking and sometimes they leave you wanting for more. But you can always move up to a bigger cam but if you want a modest build that idles well makes good torque and has decent manners thing small. Remember your not racing 90% of the time your just driving around
:scooter:
 
#8
Well that's because one cams makes more power than another. The AGK cams all started out as custom cams then transformed into regular off the shelf cams that anyone can buy.

I personally run the .290 cam myself, works just as good but bigger.
Hey minidragbike, did you have to do any mods to run the 290 cam other than clearanceing the block. Like did you have to cut deeper valve pockets or any thing? Thx.
 
#12
Yeah, nobody mentioned the 0.358" cam.....0.468" at the valve with 1.3s. :eek:ut:
but a clone head dosent flow much better above .350 lift i woulg go with more duration and a smaller lift. :thumbsup:i think i need a custom ground cam with a split lift/duration thats the only way i think of you can have your cake and eat it too. :scooter:
 

65ShelbyClone

Well-Known Member
#13
1.) but a clone head dosent flow much better above .350 lift i woulg go with more duration and a smaller lift. :thumbsup:

2.) i think i need a custom ground cam with a split lift/duration thats the only way i think of you can have your cake and eat it too. :scooter:
1.) Generally speaking, more lift and duration means more crankshaft degrees spent at or above the port's peak flow lift. However, whether that is beneficial or not depends on how the rest of the combination is matched. A radical cam in a mild engine will be a disappointing performer. The idle will sound good, though. :laugh:

2.) Ideally, yes. Stock smallblock Fords have small exhaust ports and some more modern performance cams for them have split duration and lift. I have one in my Mustang that I picked before I decided to use Edelbrock heads...
 
Last edited:
#14
1.) Generally speaking, more lift and duration means more crankshaft degrees spent at or above the port's peak flow lift. However, whether that is beneficial or not depends on how the rest of the combination is matched. A radical cam in a mild engine will be a disappointing performer. The idle will sound good, though. :laugh:

2.) Ideally, yes. Stock smallblock Fords have small exhaust ports and some more modern performance cams for them have split duration and lift. I have one in my Mustang that I picked before I decided to use Edelbrock heads...
seeing the fact that i ported the head and it has stock size valves it might flow more than the stock head but i think that the head will stop flowing more air around the same lift as the stock head.

Flowed: Stock Clone Head - No Mods - No Intake or Carb

Lift - Flow (cfm)
.050" - 17.0
.100" - 32.0
.150" - 45.0
.200" - 48.6
.250" - 49.4
.300" - 51.0
.350" - 52.0

Stock head Port velocity at .350" was 270fps. I should say max port velocity was 270, average was around 240.
 
#15
the insky cam is good but i do think i want to try my hand at a custom grind :doah:
Intake Lobe Design (lift): .285 lift 253 duration
Exhaust Lobe Design (lift):.274 lift 260 duration
Intake Center Line: 104
Lobe Seperation: 110
thats what i came up with:grind:
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#16
the insky cam is good but i do think i want to try my hand at a custom grind :doah:
Intake Lobe Design (lift): .285 lift 253 duration
Exhaust Lobe Design (lift):.274 lift 260 duration
Intake Center Line: 104
Lobe Seperation: 110
thats what i came up with:grind:
Well if you already had your mind made up, why post the thread asking the question?
 
#17
Well if you already had your mind made up, why post the thread asking the question?
i was just thinking but if it dont work i will be pissed so maybe i will not try to reinvent the wheel and go with what works. somtimes my mind gets going and that can be a good thing and more often than not its a bad thing lol. ok now i have some questions. would i need ss valves would need more than 26lb springs and lastly are my 1.3 rockers going to work with the agk cam the 276 ? because i have another head that is at the cart shop getting milled.070 and i know you have said before that the stock size valves work good with smaller carbs like my 22mm. but would going up in valve size kill my lowend yank?:thumbsup:
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#18
i was just thinking but if it dont work i will be pissed so maybe i will not try to reinvent the wheel and go with what works. somtimes my mind gets going and that can be a good thing and more often than not its a bad thing lol. ok now i have some questions. would i need ss valves would need more than 26lb springs and lastly are my 1.3 rockers going to work with the agk cam the 276 ? because i have another head that is at the cart shop getting milled.070 and i know you have said before that the stock size valves work good with smaller carbs like my 22mm. but would going up in valve size kill my lowend yank?:thumbsup:
This is what you do!
Stainless steel valves are needed with all performance motors. Now the size of the valves is important, so if your on a budget buy a 27mm intake and 25mm exhaust. Fully port the head, then take the head to the machine shop and have the seats reamed open 15mm-2mm each. The get a 3 angle valve job.

No, those cheap 1.3 rockers will break, so no good. Run the cam wth Heavy Duty stock ratio rockers.

Yes the 26 lb springs will work

And last if you do like I said above go with a slightly bigger carb like a 24mm, or 1" bore tillotson carb.
 
#20
I need to make a cam duplicator/grinder and start punching out my own grinds.

This ain't rocket science and some minibike grinds would probably be well received.
 
Top