Help installing a torque converter drive unit

#1
I have some questions about my Comet torque converter. I want to make sure I install it on my motor correct.

It came on a 285 Manco Dingo back in 1986ish. When I received the kart, the driven part is still attached. I do see it has 3 buttons and one is missing. Other than that, I think I have the driven part figured out. The drive part is where I have questions. The motor was taken off for a rebuild and ended up in a box along with the drive part. I am 99% sure it is a CAT99 model. There is a 1% chance it is a 30 Series. I used this page to identify it..
How To Identify Comet Torque Converters

This is the first torque converter I have ever owned / looked at close / worked with so I just know what I see and read online.

My questions are...

From looking at this diagram from my kart, I have every piece here but 11
http://www.amsportworks.com/docs/ipls/gokarts/285/285_operatorsmanual.pdf
It looks like a spacer to hold it off of the motor. The way my shaft is made, it stops short of the guard bracket and I am pretty sure I do not need it. The guy I got it from said the parts I have are all of them that came on it from the factory.

When I put all of it together and slide it on my shaft – the shaft still likes maybe a ½” or so before it comes to the end of the drive assembly. Its hard to explain but – when I put everything together – slide it on the motor shaft – it’s like the motor shaft isn’t long enough. When you put the screw and washers in the end of the shaft to hold it all on – It will hold it all on but there is still a void behind the screw - I was just wondering if this was correct?

In this picture I see a “shaft end spacer”.
Driver 3/4" bore,Max-Torque
This would fill in this space as long as it wasn’t too long them it would let everything flop around.

How does everyone else’s look when they put it on the shaft?

Also the pieces you see in the above picture - mine look very good. The part where the belt rides does have a little surface rust – I know I need to clean and smooth this. The inside where the aluminum block is with the two springs around it – it is a little dirty and kinda looks like a car wheel covered in brake dust. My question here is – does this need to be cleaned and oiled? Does it need a little grease before put on? Clean it and put it back on dry? Just by looking at it – I see the force throws the blocks outward which push the plate over – which tightens the belt and engages it. I just didn’t know if it being dry would wear it out faster or oil or grease would let it spin / slip and wear it out faster.

I see how it works – I just have never seen / owned a torque converter so I don’t know the correct way to maintenance / install it without the manufactures instructions. I also don’t want to bolt it on with this void at the end of the shaft and bend / warp something.
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#3
I have yet to see a Comet Driver with the shaft at the end of the torque. Use the correct washer, and tighten it down good. You won't have any trouble.

I hate to say this but why not just buy a new driven? They are 79.50 for a 6" driven from Go Kart Supply. It will just save you a lot of hassle.

I tried to save an old driven on my super bronc, I got it all cleaned up, lubed with the right lube, new belt and it flew apart on me. The buttons snapped off, spring open and left me sitting. I ended up just putting a whole new Comet 30 series on it and am much happier.
 
#4
I may have to buy a new one but the one on there now looks in very good condition. It was working fine before the guy took the motor off to rebuild. He said the button actually fell off a month after he got the kart but it still worked just fine so he rode it for years with just 2. He said he forgot about it till I asked him about it when I started to restore it. It has been out in the weather but other than that, it still looks like the new ones in the pictures on the online stores. This one is a CAT99 and I think from reading the opening is an 1/8" different than new ones. It also has the 3 big solid buttons, the belt part is 2 degrees and a little different than the new ones. I figured the drive and driven - both look very good - only have maybe 30 hours use on them - have wore thogether over the years - so they match. Its also the reason I bought the Manco Dingo 285 too. It was garage kept - except for the last year - one owner - all parts were there except needed 2 front tires, new seat, and the driven button - had new motor - and I got it all for $100. I didnt want to have but $200 when I got done restoring it so I could get my money back any time I wanted to.

It also has the original belt plus a new spare. They are the discontinued ones that are a little different size and different degree angle. Both were kept inside in a drawer and look new too. They gave him a spare side cover when he first got it and he stored it so I got a new looking gaurd.

Once I get it together, I may find out it does need a new one but I atleast want to try to get this one going and keep it all original. Plus every bit I can save - I can put toward my next project ;)
 
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#7
They are also available on Ebay for $18.90 that includes shipping, check item 140473667214.

Mine dont look like them. Mine look like these but are white..

Gemini Karts - On-Line Parts Shop

Also Bill - did you see that spacer that the screw goes through? Is that the one yours dont have? not the one next to the motor block but the one on the very end the screw goes through.

Yea oldfatguy - I got a couple links here somewhere I ran across one day of some places here in the US that has them for about $10 or less for all 3.
 
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#8
they sell everything you need right here on OldMiniBikes warehouse, go to new products. also use comet lube if you can find it somewhere its the best, dry silicone if you cant find comet lube ,you have to use lube for it to last working properly
 
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