Honda ST, CT, DAX 50cc replica.

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
After building 3 minibikes from scratch, it was about time for a road legal "minibike".
I came across a used 50cc Skyteam skymax on Dutch marketplace and it had a moped license plate (<50cc). I went over to take a look at it and took it home.
It will be my new "project", as it has several flaws.
Skyteam is the Chinese brand and skymax is the type. It's a replica of the Honda ST or CT. Also called DAX (from German: "Dachshund").
It is 50cc, 4 speed (1-N-2-3-4), manual clutch.

This is how I bought it.

As mentioned it had some flaws.
I has a 16mm carb (venturi ~16mm) at intake it is 19mm. The isolator between carb and manifold had a hole of 16mm and the manifold installed was 26mm. Hole in cylinderhead is ~18mm. I have replaced/drilled in such a way that it is 19mm al the way to the cylinderhead.
I replaced the bad powerfilter with the stock filterhousing.

With the key ignition switch "on" I am able to take the key out, which is not good and I can loose my key that way. So I will replace it or create something else for it.
I don't have a key for the steering lock and as I won't use it, I will cut it all of to get a cleaner look.
There are also some "aftermerket" holes in the frame, which I will weld/close.
The previous owner was really handy by creating his own "connectors" with zip ties.

I will replace the cables, as they are damaged.
The max. steering angle bracket is gone. So I will have to fab up a new one.
The headlight holder is broken of on the bottom.
Overall condition of wiring is bad.
It does have 30mm front forks.

I have mounted the original exhaust again for a couple of rides I did with it.
The taillight is missing it's glass.
The seat seems to be mounted of center.

I have sold the exhaust by now. This exhaust had to little ground clearance in my opinion.

Wheel bearings were bad, so I replaced them with new bearings. But as the hub bore was damaged I got slightly larger bearings.
I did have to make the bore larger. Good thing, because now I made the wheel bearing bore center with the sprocket. It was not center.

Making a bigger bore.

Also made this shaft/axle. The new bearings also have a bigger inside diameter. That's why I need this shaft/axle.

Pre heating the hub before installing the bearings.

New bearings installed.

The LED headlight (Kepspeed unit) has a not functioning "High" light. As this is a LED unit it is not possible to simply replace a led bulb, but you have to replace the whole unit, which is around $40,-.
That's why I will replace the headlight with a headlight of a Puch moped. I also do like the Puch headlight over the LED headlightunit.
The Puch moped headlight accepts BAX15D lightbulbs originally, but I have found a BA20D fitting that fits the headlight. There are a lot more (affordable) BA20D LED bulbs as there are BAX15D LED bulbs.

Not sure yet, but I'm thinking to put this start button switch in the hole where the key ignition switch is located now. A new key ignition switch will have to be located somewhere else.

I have found this nice set of fork boots, which will replace the damaged fork boots that are installed now. The red color will match the new colorscheme.

These little LED "flowing light" blinkers will replace the current blinkers, which I found to be to big.

$50,- including shipping for a pair of new shocks.

The previous owner did have some soldering skills.

Sold the headlight and digital speedometer. The speedometer was inaccurate by 10-20%...

I am thinking to put this tachometer/speedometer on. It also has the ability to monitor fuellevel, but that requires a fuelsensor. It indicates which gear is selected, neatral light, blinker light, etc...

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
I will replace the fenders with "German style" fenders, which is an aftermaket set for a Honda Chaly / CF (womens version of CT?).

Honda with stock fenders.

Honda with Chaly fenders. I think these fenders look 20 times better as the stock fenders. They make the bike look like it's 20 years older...

In this project I'll be mixing "old" with "new".
I'm thinking of fabricating/welding a new rear support to mount license plate, taillight, blinkers, etc. I want it to look like it's part of the frame/ like it came out of the factory that way.
The stock rear support for taillight and license plate looks like the designer forgot about the license plate and taillight. As it seems to be a drop-on thing, which I don't like.

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
There're no fuel level sensors available for the skyteam dax, besides the stock floatswitch, that makes a light light up, when gas runs empty. It's basically an "on-off" switch. Each time I hit a speedbump, the light comes on...
As I'm planning on using a universal meter that also indicates the fuel level I need a fuel level sensor in my gas tank that provides a signal/resistance to the new meter.
Today a fuel level sensor arrived, which is for a small moped like:
Fosti Retro
AGM Retro
Baotian Retro
Rover Retro
Bella Retro
Killerbee Custom

I have measured the resistance and I think it will work.
I'll have to cut a hole in the gastank for this sensor and add some supports to it, to secure it.

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
It's been a while, but weather is great again to take the Dax to work.
I did some modifications to it and more is to come.

Below a video of the new shocks and the stock exhaust that I modified.

Li'l Popeye

Well-Known Member
Back again with pictures.

This is the new Puch headlight that I've mounted. I have installed a fitting of a Yamaha moped and now it accepts BA20D lightbulbs or in my case a BA20D LED light.

For the new speedometer I made this little magnet in the brake rotor. Speed is measured with a hall sensor, in the meter settings I have to set the wheel circumference. Works great and I''m very happy with the €20,- meter.

If you come home and see this... That can't be good, is it?

New shocks installed.

Exhaust didn't fit anymore after I installed the new shocks, so I modified the exhaust.

Well, that looks better. I think.

VIDEO of the shocks and modification of the exhaust:

I took this kickstand off, as it was very noisy during riding. It was rattling all over the place.

Took the gastank out and also checked the wiring. A lot was wrong with the wiring, thanks to a previous owner.

Old and new part for the neutral gear selector sensor.

New gear selector sensor installed. This one is able to sense which gear is selected. The previous one only sensed neutral.

Wiring redone and added extra wires from the gear selector sensor to the tacho- speedometer.

This is the 5,5ltr gastank, which is close to 1,5 US gallon. Here with the original fuel level switch, which will be replaced with a fuel level sensor.

This sensor will be installed. It is commonly used in scooters.

I had to make some modifications to the gastank to make the sensor fit.

New fuel level sensor installed.

Video of the new tacho-, speedo- and fuel levelmeter installation and the functioning of it:

I also changed the angle of the intake manifold. This is how it was. Not a way to mount an aftermarket air filter as it is to close to the top.

Several cuts and bend it.

Weld it back together.

I have replaced the bolts with studs, this will help save the threads in the head.

Aftermarket airfilter fits now on my Chonda.