honing tecumseh aluminum block

#1
hi im new here just trying to find out if its possible to hone an aluminum bore tecumseh. or is it better to sleeve it . i have the means to do it either way but my friend who's a automotive rebuilder says you cant hone aluminum bores they will wear out prematurely. but the lawn mower guy down the street says it should work. if i take these engines down this far i want the most longevity i can get, any help would be appreciated thanx scott.
 

oldfatguy

Active Member
#3
just go easy, you just want to brake the glaze on the cylinder wall so that the ring will seat. I read that most of the problems come from not cleaning the bore real good after honing. If you leave any grit in there it will act like sand paper on the piston. wash it out with soap and water and plenty of paper towels to get all the grit from the hone out.
 
#4
Hone away its only been done for 50 years on them
....so Jeff there is no issue with re-establishing the silicone layer at the top of the honed surface ....like with the old nickasil (sp?) coated cylinders.
I know Sunnen developed a honing process that replaced the old chemical etching process but it's been a while since I messed with that stuff.

I'm guessing the answer is "it's a friggin lawn mower engine just do it "!!! :facepalm:
 
#5
Nikasil coated cylinders are more delicate than the iron bores typically used with Flex-Hones. Nikasil is an electroplated oleophilic nickel matrix silicon carbide coating that allows the use of aluminum cylinder walls without a steel sleeve. This coating reduces friction and wear. Great advantages come with the use of Nikasil on coated aluminum blocks or jugs, one of them is the increased heat removal from the piston, pin and ring assemblies. The other advantage is the tighter tolerances can be achieved. Most Nikasil coatings are 0.0003" to 0.0008". To deglaze and freshen up the bore walls you must use an aluminum oxide material based hone. This softer material works well with the hard walls. Use the hone like described above with the exception of much less rotations. Run the hone for 10-12 rotations in the bore and inspect. If the overall cylinder looks touched then you are done and remove the tool.
 

zeeman

Active Member
#9
Hey guys. Seems like getting the hone in the bore just right would be critical. Is my drill press sufficient for this task? Any recommendations on what hone to get? I had a local Tecumseh tec. look at my cylinder, and he said it was OK. It does not look OK to me though. Thanks.
 
#13
sleeve it...... and don't use a drill press to do so.even if your honing,you could end up messing it up,the drill press is too rigid and not as tight of tolerance as a mill machine.i've already tried it,made a mess.
 

zeeman

Active Member
#14
sleeve it...... and don't use a drill press to do so.even if your honing,you could end up messing it up,the drill press is too rigid and not as tight of tolerance as a mill machine.i've already tried it,made a mess.
Well, I guess I'm glad I did not do it on the drill press. It seems like a drill press would be better than free handing it???? What do you other guys do.
 
#15
Wes...do you have any means of measuring the bore?..if it's not tapered and there is no appreciable wear ridge at the top then just use a ball hone like Jeff said .....
 
#16
When I do/did my blocks I used the finest stone available and used a variable speed cordless drill. You mainly want to remove the least material/glaze. No problems at all.
 
Top