I couldn't say either but I did one of mine in stages and went back a step a few times, trying different combinations just to see the bolt on difference.
A simple change to the freeflowing air filter does make the biggest difference in power however it comes on pretty quick and not all that smooth, hence the reason for installing the 140 tube (this assumes you already rejetted the main and idle jets when you added the KN type air filter).
BTW ANY freeflowing type air filter is good, even it is a no name and only costs 12$.
Your exhaust will not add to much to your need and feel for speed until you really push that engine. That means your uh sorta bypassing the speed control (governor with a stright link) to gain the breathing advantage of a exhaust header.
I run a tach and bypass the gov and keep it to less then 4.5K RPM and that keeps my speed down to a sane level. Sane level is your bouncing down the street at 30+mph on tires that were made for a garden tractor with no suspension and only one poor A**rear brake and hanging on for dear life (were talking a bad lawnchair with a engine on it! Remember speed is on a 6.5+ is in many cases a matter of gearing.
But if you add the exhaust it sure sounds mean...and even sounds "Faster", but to really take advantage you need the billet rod and flywheel, valve springs to fully utilize the effects of the exhaust (I just have them cause the add a cool factor) and it allows me to "hide" my fuel tank under the seat so I have a "All engine" effect.
Crank case breather is nothing more then a big gas filter from Kragon plugged onto the breather line, works on karts fine and is cheap, does the job of keeping from blowing oil over things and also keeps low flying birds, bugs and sand etc out of the internals.