HS 50 refresh

David wulf

David wulf

#1
#1
Well it's time to take a look inside my HS 50 to see how she's been doing . In the last couple of weeks she has had the ever living shittt run out of her . I mean 6 K wide open runs for a mile or more , she should have blown but didn't .
I have had some carb problems and she has run real lean some , so I've been worried about the insides . So today I got her pulled off the bike and tore down and to my surprise all looks great inside . The cam and stock lifters look great as with the valves .
I was worried about the ARC rod and the crank the most and they look fine . This time I'am going to chamfer the oil holes in the rod on the beaning side .
Also I'am going to cut the skirts on the piston to lighten her up , a idea ATK RIDER gave me to help her rev quicker . Also I did some porting on her but I will epoxy the intake port the make it round this time along with epoxy on the floor .
I'am also going to start running a clone carb , so I have a manifold to build . I would post pics but I'am having trouble doing so .
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#5
#5
david
Also I'am going to cut the skirts on the piston to lighten her up
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what kind of process does this take david?
also without going back and looking at your build david , did this engine have bearings on the crank ends.
thinking a 22mm carb is going to work alot better..........:thumbsup: i do like the look of the factory carb set that has been modified little for more power ,but still looks stock.

we use to call that a sleeping............back in the day........:scooter:
 
delray

delray

Well-Known Member
#6
#6
hey david,if no one makes a billet flywheel for that engine? could a guy modify a billet flywheel or even a stock aluminum unit? instead of trying to spin that heavy cast iron wheel?
 
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H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#7
#7
delray said:
hey david,if no one makes a billet flywheel for that engine? could a guy modify a billet flywheel or even a stock aluminum unit? instead of trying to spin that heavy cast iron wheel?
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Delray, I was thinking about this as well. It might be cheaper and more realistic to send a stock aluminum wheel in for non-destructive testing using eddy current and dye penetrant. This is how aluminum spars on aircraft are inspected for cracks. (a bunch of other things too of course)

Then, if the wheel is good to go, a dynamic balance done to XXX RPM- maybe some lightening of the wheel, fan fins, etc?

Just thinking that maybe that option would be more cost-effective than a billet run, which still requires the machine work.
 
David wulf

David wulf

#8
#8
Guys a billet wheel would be great but most of our pockets are not that deep . I've been told by that the iron tec wheel is the better of the two by quite a few people . But it will not rev as fast as a aluminum one .
 
David wulf

David wulf

#10
#10
Guys so far I've got the manifold built for the clone carb . And some new things , the stock look of this motor is gone with the carb addition so with that we are going full bore . What I have done is stud the motor head and side plate . The intake port has been complete reshaped with epoxy . It was added to the floor and back behind the guide area and the dog leg in the upper corner filled in . So what I have now is a 20 1/2 MM round hole from the carb though the port , all matched perfect . Also the manifold is angled a little to line up with the angle of the port . This should flow great compared to the stock setup .
I will also put an adjustable jet on the clone carb . The funny looking steel plate you see is a block stiffener . It fully covers the bottom of the motor and is bent and up and bolts to the side cover to the four 5/16 -24 bolt holes around the crank . It will also go up the flywheel side and tie to the two bosses on that side .
Why you ask everybody tells me eventually the crank will break . Cranks usually break because the block flexes , mine will not flex .

Also one more surprise my body Craig (the hot rod builder ) and owner of a Bridgeport mill wants to cut a billet head for this motor , he says he can whip one out in an hour or so .

Eventually I plan to go with a bigger cam , thinking of having Isky grind me something better with my stock cam .
 
CarPlayLB

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#11
#11
David,
Can you post a pic of the intake port? What epoxy did you use to do that?

Tell me about the block stiffener. Do you bolt the motor down to the mount and then torque the bolts on both sides of the crank? Will you at some point plate the head and tie that in to the lower unit? I am figuring you would with those long head studs! I see you left the four holes around the PTO with a lot of extra room. What fastener will you use to make sure there is not any slip between the plate and the fastener?

with a bigger camshaft, will you need to weld the lifter bore such as the Briggs guys do? With additional lift and heavier spring pressures, will stock lifters survive? I have not seen billet lifters for the Tec motors.
 
David wulf

David wulf

#18
#18
Well the motor is back together and it runs . Started it yesterday and she didn't run so well carb was really lean and it wouldn't rev but a little on half choke . So I drilled the main out with a number 60 bit and I have just about right , just a little rich but good till I get new jets and a air filter .
So after the rain today I got to take her out for a spin . First thing I'am gonna say it there is no comparison to the stock TEC carb setup . The custom manifold and clone carb is far superior to what I had , starts first pull and idles like a dream .
The performance difference was night and day , the motor screams now . It ran really good before but now I'am really feeling what this cam cam do .
 
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