hs50 questions

#23
Thank you, when I get a chance I will do it again because there is a chance I did it wrong. Do you know anywhere I could possible find a new part, the wires and other small parts aren’t in the best shape after sitting for a very long time.
I appreciate the fact that you took this project on, and that you are attempting to make this engine work for you. You don't need any new parts. You need to time it like the book says. And if that is the video Markus did up, that is the one you should follow. It is not timed correctly. Period. You need to use an ohm meter, (continuity tester) and a depth gauge, or dial indicator that will measure how far the piston goes into the bore. And maybe you can tell by some of the comments here, that the engine you have is fairly valuable in the several hundreds of dollars area, and worth sending it to someone to get it running if you cant. I am being honest here, and not trying to impress anyone with anything. PS: There are no "timing marks."
 

kai20

New Member
#24
I appreciate the fact that you took this project on, and that you are attempting to make this engine work for you. You don't need any new parts. You need to time it like the book says. And if that is the video Markus did up, that is the one you should follow. It is not timed correctly. Period. You need to use an ohm meter, (continuity tester) and a depth gauge, or dial indicator that will measure how far the piston goes into the bore. And maybe you can tell by some of the comments here, that the engine you have is fairly valuable in the several hundreds of dollars area, and worth sending it to someone to get it running if you cant. I am being honest here, and not trying to impress anyone with anything. PS: There are no "timing marks."
Thank you for the info. Where could I find a depth gauge? I saw in the video that a tecumseh one works best as it’s designed for these kind of engines, but different ones could work. Is it something I should just order online or something that would I could find at a local parts store. Also, just going to be fully honest when I first started working on this engine I had no clue how to do the timing, so after research and help from everyone one here i’m pretty certain that’s what it is (thank you to everyone who has replied). I’m not surprised that the engine is valuable as I have had a very hard time finding information on this specific model.
 

kai20

New Member
#25
I wanna give a real thank you to everyone who’s provided anything. Before the help I had really no way to attack this, I am now confident in what to do next. This project means a lot to me and my dad and i’m 100% going to keep this forum updated on the progress from now forward. I have no issue stating the fact that I am truly inexperienced, and y’all have been extremely kind and helpful.
 
#26
You can use any dial indicator that will allow you to read the piston height while it is in the bore. Of course you need to figure out a sturdy and accurate why of mounting it to the engine block. For example a spacer and a rig that uses the 5/16 head bolt. This would be done with the head OFF.

The only thing the Official Tecumseh Tool does is to allow you to do this job with the head on. I have that tool, but I always end up doing it with the head off anyway, because when I time it, I still have other stuff to do to the engine, and haven't buttoned it up yet.

Another way I've seen it done is to use actual feeler gauges and set them on the piston to equal that .035" "before" Top Dead Center. Study that video a few more times, and learn about using ohm meters, or what electrical continuity means, and what it takes to move your points plate to make stuff happen. Honestly, it is a very tedious adjustment to make and I've been frustrated at times, but in the end, you can get it done.
 
#27
I set my points Hs50 spark timing with the head off and don't use the tecumseh tool. Just a regular dial indicator mounted to a head bolt like was said.
If you read the manual it will tell you how to do this. It is not that difficult, a little tedious but totally worth it imho
 

kai20

New Member
#28
Gathered all of the parts as well as the frame, everything’s in working order; it ran when parked.
For some history, my dad ran this bike through the woods of PA running trapping lines as a teen.

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#30
Not sure if I missed it but did you ever try the starting fluid? Since you said you had spark I would think engine would start if you put stater back where it was. Usually you can see where the original bolt marks are and that should get you close enough where the engine will start, especially with starting fluid.

Not sure what the bike is but looks to have all the parts for a nice project to rebuild. Plus that "lighted" engine with slanted intake is very valuable running or not!

Best of luck!
 

kai20

New Member
#33
Not sure if I missed it but did you ever try the starting fluid? Since you said you had spark I would think engine would start if you put stater back where it was. Usually you can see where the original bolt marks are and that should get you close enough where the engine will start, especially with starting fluid.

Not sure what the bike is but looks to have all the parts for a nice project to rebuild. Plus that "lighted" engine with slanted intake is very valuable running or not!

Best of luck!
Unfortunately we’ve been cleaning out our garage so it’s been put on hold for a bit, but hopefully this weekend we are going to start it. I made sure the gap was set to .020, and I did just put the bolts were they were previously, so hopefully it’ll start.
 

kai20

New Member
#34
your dad bike came with metal fender and light do you have pics of it back went he got it thank you
Sadly we don’t have any of it, but my goal is to have it assembled in the next few months, and as soon as i do running or not i’ll post pictures. It also came with a speedometer that’s in really good condition.
 

kai20

New Member
#38
image.jpg
I cannot seem to find a single coil for one of these that is laid out this way. The short wire and the coil itself looks very similar to others but the long wire and the way it connects to the other small thing is throwing me off. It anyone has info let me know.
 

kai20

New Member
#39
View attachment 290671
I cannot seem to find a single coil for one of these that is laid out this way. The short wire and the coil itself looks very similar to others but the long wire and the way it connects to the other small thing is throwing me off. It anyone has info let me know.
I realized the smaller thing is the condenser, my question is do they have to be connected like that? i can’t find a single one with a connection like that
 
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