Inital test drive for a DB6.5

#1
First word that comes to mind is WOW!

Tips to others,

1. Dial down your throttle/idle adjustment before starting it the first time. As a precaution I had the front wheel against a wall, just in case. Glad I did, as I started burning rubber once I turned the choke off.

2. This is not a kids bike for beginners. I've ridden big bikes for 20 years, 400-1000CC, but this was a bit frightening as the acceleration was much more than I expected. Glad I left the other DB 30 in stock configuration for the boys.

3. Wear a helmet.

A few questions arose after this test ride.

Is there another way to take the engine speed down a little lower, like adjusting the air mixture, or something else I'm not aware of? I already dialed down the idle, and I'll make sure I adjust the throttle linkage tomorrow so that the gas goes all the way off. The issue was that the clutch was partially engaging at idle. Brand new Max-torque.

Will this get better after time as the clutch wears a bit, meaning I should just deal with it for now and let it break in?

Would dropping to a smaller rear spocket help solve this a bit? I realize I'd get higher top speed, but it would also make the engine/clutch work harder to spin the wheel initially, possibly eliminating this issue.

I can't ever remember doing a burn-out on a mini-bike before, with my 650's and 1,000's yes, but that was totally unexpected.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2
Im not 100% sure, but i would think heavier clutch springs would solve that. they would require more RPM's before they engage. i cant wait to get this package. the stock one leaves a LOT to be desired, especially for a big guy like myself. i feel like it barely moves. I like the idea of bieng a little frightened by the power of the new motor !
 
#3
i have the tav and the 6.5. on my first ride it was wet and i spun the tire for a good 50 feet till it hooked up then did a wheelie for about the same distance, i was hooked right away
 
#4
the clutch shouldnt grab at all at idle. so your idle is probrobly set too high. if its a new clutch you sould diassemble it and make sure its well lubed inside anyway. Then you can see if anythings wrong with it.
 
#5
I think the throttle linkage has a bit more adjustment left in it since I dialed down the idle after I had set the cable tension. I'll try that first, as it might be set a bit tight. I'm pretty sure that the spring has enough pull to snap that sucker back close, it is just that I may have set the low stop on the cable a bit high..
 
#7
First word that comes to mind is WOW!

Tips to others,

1. Dial down your throttle/idle adjustment before starting it the first time. As a precaution I had the front wheel against a wall, just in case. Glad I did, as I started burning rubber once I turned the choke off.

2. This is not a kids bike for beginners. I've ridden big bikes for 20 years, 400-1000CC, but this was a bit frightening as the acceleration was much more than I expected. Glad I left the other DB 30 in stock configuration for the boys.

3. Wear a helmet.

A few questions arose after this test ride.

Is there another way to take the engine speed down a little lower, like adjusting the air mixture, or something else I'm not aware of? I already dialed down the idle, and I'll make sure I adjust the throttle linkage tomorrow so that the gas goes all the way off. The issue was that the clutch was partially engaging at idle. Brand new Max-torque.

Will this get better after time as the clutch wears a bit, meaning I should just deal with it for now and let it break in?

Would dropping to a smaller rear spocket help solve this a bit? I realize I'd get higher top speed, but it would also make the engine/clutch work harder to spin the wheel initially, possibly eliminating this issue.

I can't ever remember doing a burn-out on a mini-bike before, with my 650's and 1,000's yes, but that was totally unexpected.

Thanks in advance.
nice looking bike :thumbsup:

I was thinking I wish this would go faster the first time I tested my ungov 6.5 db thats why I got the tav 2 I still need to put it on the pos db when I get a chance.

as for the helmet on a mini :lol:
 
#9
A smaller sprocket will help tremendously with reducing the torque on startup, but as you stated, it will give you a higher top speed. A larger sprocket will do the opposite.

My DB came with a 72 tooth sprocket and there was way too much torque on startup. I'd pull wheelies if I wasn't sitting on the front portion of the seat and my son's arms would be sore from the bike yanking him forward everytime he used the throttle.

I installed a 60 tooth sprocket and things are much better now - the throttle isn't nearly as 'grabby' either. Now that I look back at it, a 50-55 tooth sprocket would have worked well too, but the 60 tooth blank was all the shop had in stock. My son hasn't ridden the bike extensively since the new sprocket because of the snow on the ground, but he seems to make out a lot better.

I wanted the 6.5 on the DB because I ride it (220lbs), but its mainly for my 8 year old son (who rides with a dirt bike racing hemet). It took some time to tweak the bike and get it just right, but the 60 tooth sprocket was definately the right way to go.

I crank down the throttle screw for him so he doesn't go too fast and then simply turn it out when I want to ride. That way I get the best of both worlds, without having two bikes.
 
#10
Oh heck yes, I wanna do wheelies! :thumbsup:

I'm waiting form my new clutch to come in the mail, I'm going to get a thick piece of Al. for the motor plate, and I'll be in business.
 
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