It was time to put my foot down on the Boonie.

#1
My friend "Cruiser" came over and needed a spot weld on a rifle sight (which turned out great) so I figured since I had the welder out I might as well take care of them bent foot pegs on the Heathkit Boonie.

I found a place who sells thick 7/8" tube for about a buck a foot. I'm new to welding and only have a cheap mig but it did ok and I have a good bond and welded all the way around like the original.

For those missing a boonie foot rest, stock is 19" long and 1/4" above the bottom of the front of the frame.





 
#12
BMI sells them. You have to move them back and up if you use a Briggs. The gas tank and rear fender would be in the way of the clutch on the jackshaft. I might go with a torque converter, but I remember riding a Sears super 2 speed when I was a kid. It had a lot of torque taking off. High gear is basically the same as regular gearing. It just has that extra low,that might be good for a Boonie. I was going to make one like the original, but I can't find the one way bearing for the big sprocket. If you use a Comet you might have to have a lower jackshaft and use the 2 speed above for clearance.
 
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#13
The boonie just looks good with a briggs and thats how they came. I'm thinking on using this tiller engine painted white. I rebuilt the carb , pounded out the dents in top of the cover and added a momentary kill switch. (hate on off switches)

I'm thinking about doing an exhaust that comes over the fender and ends just after the back seat with a rectangle tip.

Or I'l stuff the 8hp in there. :doah:
 
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#15
Yep, I had a white Briggs,but I painted it blue for another one. I'll probably strip it and repaint it. It's sitting in my frame now. Taking measurements for the drive. I think I'll use a torque converter. I'll most likely use the Tecumseh and a Comet 2 speed in the Sears 2 speed frame.
 
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