Lil Indian gasser style
- Thread starter Egorspyle65
- Start date
- Tags gasser indian style
Nice! I have that same frame here as well, It had a 6.5hp clone stuffed into it with 5" wheels when I bought it. I'm wanting to put my vintage West Bend 700 onto it but I need to run a jackshaft and I dunno if I'm gonna have the room to do it (gonna run 6" wheels as well).
Keep pics of the progress going, gives me some motivation:thumbsup:
Keep pics of the progress going, gives me some motivation:thumbsup:
Thats kinda what i was going for AJ. I wanted the motor to be completely stuffed into the frame. I think i manage to accomplish that LOL. Plus i think it will scoot along pretty good with the 5hp in it. Im running 5" wheels front and rear on this one. I couldnt get 6" wheels to fit. Still had to modify the gas tank to get some adjustment out of the chain with out the tire hitting the tank.
Thanks for all the motivation guys. Kinda hard to finish a project with a 2 year old running crazy:laugh:. But im working as hard as i can to finish it. Do have a couple questions for someone that knows more about this than i do. How easy is it to shorten cables? I think im gonna try a clutch brake on this one and dont need a long cable as it is such a small frame. Same thing with the throttle cable. Will it matter if it doesnt have the small metal ends.
I wouldn't think that either would be a problem Russ. Usually the band brake has a screw crimp so the cable could be whatever length you want it and the housing would just need to have a ferrule possibly or not. I know when I was still riding bmx I'd cut my cables to length but there were ferrules available to cap the housing where it would go into the stop then the actual cable would crimp into the part of the brake that it was pulling on and you could actually get a little crimp ferrule for the end of the cable to prevent fraying. Just some thoughts but I hope they help somewhat.
You can cut the actual cable with a GOOD set of sidecuts or rap it a couple times real tight with electrical tape and then cut it with a cut off wheel. The best way i have found to cut the cable housing is to use a cut off wheel because then it don't smash the housing down. When you smash the housing down from cutting it with side cuts it sometimes makes cable drag and the metal coiling in the housing usually ends up with the cut piece partially blocking the hole through the housing. I think you can still buy the little ferrules to slide the cable into and crimp on AFTER the cable has been completely routed and tightened down. You can also get the end nice and hot and just apply a small amount of solder to the end of the cable and that works really well also, better if you ask me because with the ferrule if you need to remove the cable then you have to cut the ferrule back off and then install another one on a now slightly shorter cable. Just what i have learned from my years of bike riding and BMX racing.
Hope that helps you out some.:thumbsup:
Hope that helps you out some.:thumbsup:
Those were some really good tips from hemmigremmy. I defitely never thought about the solder tip. That's pretty good. You can always reflow the solder if you'd need to remove the cable for some reason where even if you could pull the ferrule off, it'll usually let the cable fray out and then for me it was always a new cable cause I only ran mine as long as it needed to be. I did forget to mention about the housing as well because they do pinch on the cable when just using side cutters.
Another tip along the lines of minibikin' was that I'd always lube the cable and then reinstall it in the housing. I'd use some sort of a teflong spray so you'd get smooth action and no bind.
Another tip along the lines of minibikin' was that I'd always lube the cable and then reinstall it in the housing. I'd use some sort of a teflong spray so you'd get smooth action and no bind.