Modding a Honda clone Engine??
- Thread starter deezildennis
- Start date
Cheaper way is to buy HP right out of the box. The 11HP Clone is about$264.00 at Harbor Freight. Till I add up what I spent on my 6.5 to reach 11-12 hp, it's damn near twice the amount of the 11HP Clone. The only difference is that my 6.5 is light and has a lighter rotating mass, so it will hit the revs quicker than the 11HP.
I agree with you on the 11HP not fitting most manufactered mini frames.
I guess the way I look at it is if you're restoring a mini, you stick with the engine it originally came with.
If you're looking to mod a bike, stretching the frame is relatively cheap in comparison to the cost involved in modding a 6.5.
I guess the way I look at it is if you're restoring a mini, you stick with the engine it originally came with.
If you're looking to mod a bike, stretching the frame is relatively cheap in comparison to the cost involved in modding a 6.5.
pz 22 carb??
Hi there
I am searching for a carb for my 6.5clone(stock now)but will be adding
arc rod-header-18# srings,I understand that the pz 22 is a great choice(that U sell)
is that a walbro carb??
can I use the pz22 with the tank on motor or do I have to go with the seperate fuel cell??
Thanx John,
The PZ22 slide carb your talking about is used on the Animal. That's the one I sell for $60, plus $10 for the intake brand new. It comes factory on the Animal, but works well on a lot of small motors. This is the Animal with the carb and intake.
I am searching for a carb for my 6.5clone(stock now)but will be adding
arc rod-header-18# srings,I understand that the pz 22 is a great choice(that U sell)
is that a walbro carb??
can I use the pz22 with the tank on motor or do I have to go with the seperate fuel cell??
Thanx John,
walbo carb
Hi
I read your post,,I am trying to decide betwwen the minuki 22mm slide vs the walbro,it's for a kart just for play,from what I see the mikuni is about $40-50 and the walbro $100,
Im guessing that with the walbro you would be getting a better carb?
do u know which of these two carbs works on the animal??the cheaper or the $$
(my engine is the clone 6.5)
Thanx John
Hi
I read your post,,I am trying to decide betwwen the minuki 22mm slide vs the walbro,it's for a kart just for play,from what I see the mikuni is about $40-50 and the walbro $100,
Im guessing that with the walbro you would be getting a better carb?
do u know which of these two carbs works on the animal??the cheaper or the $$
(my engine is the clone 6.5)
Thanx John
22 mm carrb
Hi mdb
do u know what the brand is on 22mm carbs that come on the animals,I am trying to figure out which off the 22mm are the best ( buy)for my 6.5 clone?
I am confused as to why if I look up a carb for the animal On say aps or ts racing the price is $100
when u can get them from mx or ebay agk for under $50, miniuki ect.are they one in the same thing just diff.prices? hope I explained this right?
thanx
Hi mdb
do u know what the brand is on 22mm carbs that come on the animals,I am trying to figure out which off the 22mm are the best ( buy)for my 6.5 clone?
I am confused as to why if I look up a carb for the animal On say aps or ts racing the price is $100
when u can get them from mx or ebay agk for under $50, miniuki ect.are they one in the same thing just diff.prices? hope I explained this right?
thanx
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How to make 10HP plus from your Clone:
- Air filter adapter and Racing Filter($20-30)
- Free flowing header($30ish)
- Re-Jet Carb (90 or 92 Main Jet should be good)($2-3)
- Light port job to just round off the edges and smooth any burs(Free)
- Mill head 0.065" (Give you about 10:1 compression)(Free if you can find someone to do it)
- 1.2 Ratio Rocker Arms($20)
- 18pd. Springs($8)
- Advance timing 6-8 Degrees (Free)
- Cut every other plastic flywheel fin off with shears or a hacksaw (Free)
I gurantee this setup is more then enough power, Im running a clone with these mods on a Kart and damn is it fast. Higher compression and advanced timing gives you more low end pull and 1.2 Rocker arms with 18pd. springs will improve your top end noticeably. These mods shouldn't cost anymore then $100 at most but if your wallets are a little fatter a 22mm Mikuni with a manifold would top that setup off very nicely and would give improved power through-out the entire powerband. Most of these parts and how to articles can be found at Affordable Go Karts - Home page - AGK - http://www.affordablegokarts.com. Hope this helps everyones.
Nick
- Air filter adapter and Racing Filter($20-30)
- Free flowing header($30ish)
- Re-Jet Carb (90 or 92 Main Jet should be good)($2-3)
- Light port job to just round off the edges and smooth any burs(Free)
- Mill head 0.065" (Give you about 10:1 compression)(Free if you can find someone to do it)
- 1.2 Ratio Rocker Arms($20)
- 18pd. Springs($8)
- Advance timing 6-8 Degrees (Free)
- Cut every other plastic flywheel fin off with shears or a hacksaw (Free)
I gurantee this setup is more then enough power, Im running a clone with these mods on a Kart and damn is it fast. Higher compression and advanced timing gives you more low end pull and 1.2 Rocker arms with 18pd. springs will improve your top end noticeably. These mods shouldn't cost anymore then $100 at most but if your wallets are a little fatter a 22mm Mikuni with a manifold would top that setup off very nicely and would give improved power through-out the entire powerband. Most of these parts and how to articles can be found at Affordable Go Karts - Home page - AGK - http://www.affordablegokarts.com. Hope this helps everyones.
Nick
yep.
i really want to get one for mine now. my friend had catastrophic rod failure on his B&S flathead yesterday and it put a nice hole in the front of the block.
a billet rod and flywheel are the next things i'm buying. i'm thinking about maybe doing the whole motor since it'll be apart and it's tax return time.
i really want to get one for mine now. my friend had catastrophic rod failure on his B&S flathead yesterday and it put a nice hole in the front of the block.
a billet rod and flywheel are the next things i'm buying. i'm thinking about maybe doing the whole motor since it'll be apart and it's tax return time.
Yikes, seeing that would definetly make me want to go Billet too.
If you want some ideas for parts combination that will really wake your engine up I highly recommend going to Bob's 4 Cycle Karting- America's Largest Karting Community. and checking out their Honda/Clone forums. There are a lot of guys over there who really know what their talking about and can answer just about anything you throw at them.
If you want some ideas for parts combination that will really wake your engine up I highly recommend going to Bob's 4 Cycle Karting- America's Largest Karting Community. and checking out their Honda/Clone forums. There are a lot of guys over there who really know what their talking about and can answer just about anything you throw at them.
about the only thing i'm not sure about right now is what cam i'd want to go with.
i really want to get a different frame with a disc brake (thinking DB30) if i'm going to go for more power. the scrub brake on mine just isn't cutting it and that's only running 40mph.
i'm also a bit hesitant because i'll have to run 110 with the setup i want to do. the way this thing already sucks through gas, i'm not too excited about paying $12 a gallon.
all that this would cost me could also be spent much better elsewhere (still owe my parents $2500 and i'm moving soon and will have to pay double rent for a month then). i've already dumped enough money into this thing so i may just put it on the back burner for now and take care of other stuff. it's 100% for sure getting a billet rod soon, i want to do the flywheel too but don't want to drop another $100+ on that (it's also a safety issue, so i'll probably do it). if my hours didn't get cut at work it would be a different story.
i really want to get a different frame with a disc brake (thinking DB30) if i'm going to go for more power. the scrub brake on mine just isn't cutting it and that's only running 40mph.
i'm also a bit hesitant because i'll have to run 110 with the setup i want to do. the way this thing already sucks through gas, i'm not too excited about paying $12 a gallon.
all that this would cost me could also be spent much better elsewhere (still owe my parents $2500 and i'm moving soon and will have to pay double rent for a month then). i've already dumped enough money into this thing so i may just put it on the back burner for now and take care of other stuff. it's 100% for sure getting a billet rod soon, i want to do the flywheel too but don't want to drop another $100+ on that (it's also a safety issue, so i'll probably do it). if my hours didn't get cut at work it would be a different story.
Well im not a cam guy so I cant help you there. Im going to be bolting my clone onto a DB30 but Im still thinking about replacing the brake on it with a hydraulic mountain bike brake or even a better mechanical mountain bike brake. I havent tested the stock brake system out yet but coming from a mountain bike backround I know the hydraulic systems are fairly cheap and easy to use/maintain so it just makes sense to me to spend the extra $50 bucks for probably twice the stopping power.
My setup as well requires a higher octane then pump gas, not really sure what im gonna do yet though. Im thinking about octane boosters but if that doesnt work out ill have to find a place that sells race gas.
Don't you just hate it when responsibilities get in the way of your toys!:001_tongue:
My setup as well requires a higher octane then pump gas, not really sure what im gonna do yet though. Im thinking about octane boosters but if that doesnt work out ill have to find a place that sells race gas.
Don't you just hate it when responsibilities get in the way of your toys!:001_tongue:
a friend of mine has a hydraulic mtb setup that he'd probably let me have for either really cheap or free. i'm just not sure how to mount the rotor (know people that could figure it out though, but for more money). i'm also not real excited about this frame so i don't want to spend money setting up a disc like that and then wanting to go with something else.
if i could get a DB frame and run a hydraulic setup with the stock caliper mount i'd be happy. my friend's DB feels pretty damn steady at 45mph+. i'm waiting to hear back on a complete DB for cheapish on CL right now. if it's still available, i'm hoping he'll sell it without the motor.
i really wish i kept mine now that i let go a couple of months ago for $100.
if i could get a DB frame and run a hydraulic setup with the stock caliper mount i'd be happy. my friend's DB feels pretty damn steady at 45mph+. i'm waiting to hear back on a complete DB for cheapish on CL right now. if it's still available, i'm hoping he'll sell it without the motor.
i really wish i kept mine now that i let go a couple of months ago for $100.
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