Need to re-bore a sprocket

#1
I need to re-bore a sprocket

Some background to my problem first:

I have a 75 tooth rear sprocket on my "Motovox MBX 10" (Chinese made, will explain later).
I replaced the stock 2 1/2 hp engine with a HF Predator 212, which I modified. http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/project-logs/80616-predator-212-just-over-stock-build.html.
With a 12 tooth clutch, the gear ratio is 6.25:1. According to the math @ 48mph it's doing 7200rpm's. I don't
want to blow up my engine and I do have a lot of low end power, so I started thinking about gearing. Also,
I don't have much room between idle and engagement. So,
1) First I got a 14 tooth sprocket for my Max Torque clutch :thumbsup: & then the correct "drum" for the 13t+ sprocket :mad:
and I currently have on order the snap clips I'll need to put it together :cursing: feel me. I had a little more luck with the
Max Torque clutch "green" spring (locks at 2500rpm's) I found a video on you tube, just followed along & it's in!! Great!! :biggrin:
2) Next, went to the rear wheel sprocket and I took it off the wheel (btw the tires are 14" diameter).
HERE'S THE PROBLEM
The sprocket is a 75 tooth with an "unknown bore" and bolt pattern....:chinese: Thank You Very Much.
I'ts close to 1.466?" (or 1.5") & a 6 bolt pattern that's in a 2" circle. It's hard to buy a 60 tooth sprocket
when you can't match the bore, also I haven't seen a 6 bolt 2" circle pattern, so I did the best I could
and came up with a bore that is just a little smaller (1 3/8" bore). But, now my small engine machine shop says
they have no equipment to enlarge the bore and referred me to a CNC shop. They'll do it, but setting up the
CNC machine will cost about $125.00. :crying: This 60t sprocket was going to create the drag I'm looking for.
I really wanted this to work, because this engine has just too much low end power, almost no slip at all, can't rev.
A 14t clutch that locks @2500rpm's, that's 24.3 mph w/ a 60t rear sprocket & 14" tires, would "act" like a Harley.
Also, it would do 35mph @ 3600 rpm's so I could adjust the linkage "speed limiter screw" to stop @ say 4200rpm's
or 40.8mph. True it might cost a clutch or two, but it would save my engine, and it would be F U N !!!
HOW CAN I RE-BORE A REAR WHEEL SPROCKET??
 
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#2
wow, 39 views and no replies.
if you have ideas, tell me what you're thinking...
please

if you have NO ideas, tell me what you're thinking.....
 
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#5
wow, 39 views and no replies.

Be patient, this is not a live chatroom. You have not had your question up for very long at all. In many parts of the country OldMiniBikes members have not even got home from work yet.
Michael
You're right, I want instant gratification... my bad.

"Why does it have to be CNCed?"

I don't know, My small engine shop said they don't have equipment to bore, they mill heads, valve etc. but no lathe. I thought if they can bore cylinders they could bore this sprocket, but he said no and gave me the number of someone 40 miles from me. so I called a small CNC shop nearby.

Here's a short video of part of the First Start - 30 minute idle break-in on 5w oil

Predator 212 Break In / UPDATE - 4 Sale - YouTube
 
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rmm727

Active Member
#6
Why does it have to be CNCed? can't a normal machine shop do what you want?
I'd be easier/quicker to cnc. Indicate center and circular interpolate to the right bore size.

On a manual mill you'd have to indicate the center and then bore to size which would take a number of steps. or indicate on a rotary table and mill to size.

But im not a machinist per say.
 
#7
Some background to my problem first:

now my small engine machine shop says they have no equipment to enlarge the bore and referred me to a CNC shop. They'll do it, but setting up the
CNC machine will cost about $125.00.............

HOW CAN I RE-BORE A REAR WHEEL SPROCKET??
You don't need CNC equipment to do this kind of work. It's simple work for a boring bar in an open set-up in a mill. The Rhovis could be mistaken but the bolt hole pattern probably establishes location of the sprocket while the bore is simply clearance.

75 on 12 tooth is indeed 6.25 to one

Going to 60 on 14 is a big step. (4.29) You might find it too big.
Even 60 on 12 cuts your ratio to 5 to 1.

Plate sprockets are available in many tooth counts. As you found out it's the machine work getting it mounted that costs.
 
#9
"The Rhovis could be mistaken but the bolt hole pattern probably establishes location of the sprocket while the bore is simply clearance."

Thought about it, The bolt hole most definitely establishes the sprockets location and if the bore is a little large for the axle/bearing/wheel I don't believe it would matter as long as the bolt holes are accurate. Next Question, Do I chance drilling bolt holes myself?
 
#10
Do I chance drilling bolt holes myself?
If you have a way to lay out the bolt hole pattern give it a go. A drill press would help getting the hole thru and square.

Indexing of the pattern is mute. If you can pilot one sprocket on top of the other accurately, use the original sprocket as a template and transfer the hole location.
 
#11
That would be the plan, but I still need a 1 3/8 bore opened up to 1 1/2, just to fit. :grind:






Ya know, I'm tempted to do the bolt holes, then bolt both sprockets together and have at it with a dremal,
oh,oh better yet, I'll think about it a little more....:mad2:
 
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#12
wow, 39 views and no replies.
if you have ideas, tell me what you're thinking...
please

if you have NO ideas, tell me what you're thinking.....
Really?! woo hoo!
What happened to selling it for $1600? :doah::laugh:

A 14 tooth front sprockets all you need. Thats what I run. I didn't buy a billet rod and flywheel to pussy foot around with the rpm, did you? Mine does 48mph at 6400 rpm.

I once took a motorcycle sprocket to a nothing special machine shop to have the center hole enlarged, 1/2 hour and $10 later....done.

Engine going to blow? Heres my last build, same rod, same flywheel, had it up to 8000 so far. http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/h...es/80667-predator-212cc-endurance-test-5.html
 

toomanytoys

Well-Known Member
#13
Really?! woo hoo!
What happened to selling it for $1600? :doah::laugh:

A 14 tooth front sprockets all you need. Thats what I run. I didn't buy a billet rod and flywheel to pussy foot around with the rpm, did you? Mine does 48mph at 6400 rpm.

I once took a motorcycle sprocket to a nothing special machine shop to have the center hole enlarged, 1/2 hour and $10 later....done.

Engine going to blow? Heres my last build, same rod, same flywheel, had it up to 8000 so far. http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/h...es/80667-predator-212cc-endurance-test-5.html
Any machine shop worth 2 nickles will be able to bore that sprocket out in no time at all...Not exactly a hard job for any machinist.
 
#14
Really?! woo hoo!
What happened to selling it for $1600? :doah::laugh:

A 14 tooth front sprockets all you need. Thats what I run. I didn't buy a billet rod and flywheel to pussy foot around with the rpm, did you? Mine does 48mph at 6400 rpm.

Engine going to blow? Heres my last build, same rod, same flywheel, had it up to 8000 so far. http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/h...es/80667-predator-212cc-endurance-test-5.html
Uh, excuse me, I said
With a 12 tooth clutch, the gear ratio is 6.25:1. According to the math @ 48mph it's doing 7200rpm's. I don't
want to blow up my engine
Where do I start, Let's NOT have another go around, ok Jay727.
I bought a billet flywheel and rod so that I control the rpm's, not the governor.
This has got nothing to do with blowing up an engine
and everything to do with reasonable performance/rev's.


:scooter:I found a machine shop today that said they don't have a problem
with opening the sprocket bore and adding the bolt pattern, I left the
Motovox sprocket with them too. As it happens, when I told them it was
a mini bike sprocket, the topic stirred a little enthusiasm. If I need anything
else I'll take it to them, except engines, they don't do engines....
 
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#19
So, I picked up the sprocket today and I'm waiting for a couple items that will be in todays mail.
Then, I'll put it all back together.

The shop did a nice job on this, cost was $20.00.

 
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