New lifters with cam swap?

[OUTLAWD]

Hi all,

I am more familiar with automotive engines than this lawnmower stuff...

With any FT cam, it is general practice that you don't re-use lifters with a new cam. I have not read about anyone replacing lifters with a cam...

I am not concerned about the $5 for new lifters, if it is a question of wiping a lobe on my new Black Mamba Jr.

Also, generally I use assembly lube on journals, and would use lube like MPZ on the cam

MPZ Engine Assembly Lube HP

BUT, I see everyone just lubing everything with oil, is this due to the splash oiling not able to displace the lube once it is spinning?

Just trying to gather some info before I tear into it.

Many thanks for Mr. Young, ole4 and OND for their informative threads and documenting builds

 

[OND]

If it was me I would replace the lifters with news as you stated there are very reasonable in price. If its a new engine out of the box then I use those lifters , and If you are going to use a stock type spring like the 10lbs that come in these engines stock I have no problem using good looking used stock lifter.
As far as using the assembly lube I still do that mostly on the rod, crank and cam ends . Usually before I install and start a new engine I will add the new oil and tilt the engine from side to side to get most of the lower parts lubed up before starting it....but this just what I do.
Oh and thanks I'm glad my thread helped you a little bit .

 

[TheDullCarbide]

I've never seen anybody need lifters after putting in a cam. The only reason I could see to replace them is if they're worn and need to be replaced anyway. As for the lube, it's a $99 engine (or $299 for the REAL engines), who cares? Oil is cheap and it works. I would doubt they used expensive assembly lube if anything from factory yet these engines still run great. Hell I've already used WD-40 as lube for the rocker shaft on my Carbide. Never had a problem. You're overthinking a simple little motor.

 

[ole4]

automotive lifters have a radius on them to promote rotation. When a cam is new there is edge contact between inside of the cam lobe and the lifter until break in. Our little engines have flat lifters and parallel face on the lobes. Their offset rotates the lifter. Our spring loads are small even with stiff springs compared to even stock springs yet our lifter face is almost as big and the cam lobe is around 70% of a car load. I always use break in lube on the cam but very little on rod as we need splash feed and a thick assembly lube can restrict oil flow into the rod as it is slash feed. I also use VR1 oil for the high zinc but that is because I am anal not that they need it.

 

[OUTLAWD]

Thanks for the feedback. Didn't realize the lifter/lobes were parallel. Makes sense. I ran dino oil with zinc for break in. I had it sitting on the shelf, why not use it...

I am perhaps a bit anal as well, but I develop passenger car engines by day, so it's hard to dial it back when I get home...

Thanks again!

 

[EVOL Tweety Bird]

Why dial it back? I use assembly lube, problem can be on how much you use. A thin swipe of it is all you need, if you pound it on it will take a bit to dissipate, and you could end up with a similar problem as if you didn't lube the parts at all. And you think you're anal, I'm rebuilding mine now, like I build a race engine. Everything is getting polished, deburred, chamfered, and such. Even considered knife edging the crank as my engine sits on a sharp angle so the front lobe on the crank will be hitting the oil. Can't have drag when you want an engine to run fast. LOL! You should see what I did to the cylinder head. Sorry can't show you it's a secret. :hammer:ut::thumbsup: