Nitrous people please step inside.

#61
Correct, in a pressurized form it's liquid and once it hits atmosphere it turns to a gas.
So if you do a shark nozzle where the fuel is sprayed in front of the nitrous, the nitrous would push the fuel and atomize it. You could also run a wet type of kit after the carb as opposed to running the dry shot before the carb so that the nitrous can pull the extra fuel it needs as it goes by.
HA! I was describing a shark nozzle and didn't even know it!
 
#62
Nitrous isn't flammable so worst case senario with a wet kit would be it fuel puddling inside or right after the carb causing a nitrous backfire and maybe blow the carb off the engine. Like they do on street outlaws.
So if it's not a bomb the next concern is the NO2/fuel ratio. You'd need to get the tank sizes just right to keep a constant ratio as the tanks empty. For the tank to hold the high pressure fuel, maybe a spent NO2 bottle could work.

IDK...I think that a homemade shark nozzle would do me well, but that's not the point of this. It's "will it work?"
 
#63
Maybe this would work. Put in a tee between the NO2 valve and nozzle. The tee will feed into a sealed gas reservoir and only pressurize it when the NO2 valve is open. When the reservoir is pressurized, the fuel is pushed through a second nozzle, into the intake with the flowing NO2. This way you use just the one NO2 valve to do everything.
 

Street Smart

Well-Known Member
#64
Maybe this would work. Put in a tee between the NO2 valve and nozzle. The tee will feed into a sealed gas reservoir and only pressurize it when the NO2 valve is open. When the reservoir is pressurized, the fuel is pushed through a second nozzle, into the intake with the flowing NO2. This way you use just the one NO2 valve to do everything.
With the high pressure of the nitrous it flows very fast, it would hit the nozzle way quicker then the fuel could. Fuel needs to be pressurized before u activate the solenoids.
 
#65
With the high pressure of the nitrous it flows very fast, it would hit the nozzle way quicker then the fuel could. Fuel needs to be pressurized before u activate the solenoids.
Yep, I still think a pulse pump would work, just don't know how long it can hold psi against it without wearing the diaphram.
 
#68
I'm not sure where you're going with this pump again. Once again, the fuel pressure that pump can produce is dependent on the maximum pressure on the diaphragm. If the diaphragm gets a peak pressure of 3PSI, the fuel pressure will be 3PSI. The maximum pressure this pump can handle would probably be around 30PSI before the reeds start to break. That's still a long shot away from 1000PSI.
 
#69
I'm not sure where you're going with this pump again. Once again, the fuel pressure that pump can produce is dependent on the maximum pressure on the diaphragm. If the diaphragm gets a peak pressure of 3PSI, the fuel pressure will be 3PSI. The maximum pressure this pump can handle would probably be around 30PSI before the reeds start to break. That's still a long shot away from 1000PSI.
I don't want 1000 psi, for a wet kit all you need is the fuel to push out in front of the nitrous orphice.
 
#71
Oh.:doah: My bad. In that case, you'll be golden. How do you plan to do the valves?
Just use a fuel solenoid and line coming from the tank. Right now I'm probably going to stick with dry as tuning it won't be so hard. The higher rpm the more fuel pressure I'll have so it will start getting rich on a nice ramp... in theory... So I might not yet be ready for a wet kit that has a variable like a pulse pump in it.
Fuel is what burns up Pistons, not the lack of fuel.
 

Street Smart

Well-Known Member
#72
Just use a fuel solenoid and line coming from the tank. Right now I'm probably going to stick with dry as tuning it won't be so hard. The higher rpm the more fuel pressure I'll have so it will start getting rich on a nice ramp... in theory... So I might not yet be ready for a wet kit that has a variable like a pulse pump in it.
Fuel is what burns up Pistons, not the lack of fuel.
Fuel will lift a pistons ring land... Lean will melt it... Detonation ( to much timing, not enough octane) is what breaks pistons...
 
#73
It can't melt it if it doesn't have fuel. Lean will crack ring lands and Pistons from detonation and too much timing. Rich and making power is liable to create a hot spot on the piston from so much fuel that it melts through. That's why people burn shit up when they use nitrous, because the use too much fuel on purpose thinking they are being safe.
 
#74
It can't melt it if it doesn't have fuel. Lean will crack ring lands and Pistons from detonation and too much timing. Rich and making power is liable to create a hot spot on the piston from so much fuel that it melts through. That's why people burn shit up when they use nitrous, because the use too much fuel on purpose thinking they are being safe.
Sorry, but I would have to call BS. The way I know it, a little extra fuel (like 12.5-13:1 with atmosphere) will add a layer of gasoline vapor to the walls of the combustion chamber. The fuel wants to stick to the walls more than the O2, so the layer is almost pure vapor that cannot burn. This insulates the walls from the flame front. If the flame front hits the wall, that spot starts to glow and becomes a source of detonation. If you're running lean, all the fuel gets dissolved in the O2 and leaves no insulation to the chamber. If you're running VERY rich (like 8:1 and rolling coal) some carbon embers might stay inside of the chamber after the exhaust stroke and ignite the fuel early in the next ignition stroke, causing a preignition or detonation.

I would think the obvious reason for nitrous engines blowing up is a hotter-than-normal combustion chamber due to too much nitrous/fuel mixture. Like you said, nitrous engines run like reliable stock engines until you use the nitrous. Once you do, it's like any other racing engine in terms of reliability. Not saying extremely rich can't hurt, just saying lean hurts just as much and that a bit rich is the money.

edit:When I say "rich" or "lean," I'm comparing to a stoiciometric mixture (14.7:1 on atmosphere).
 
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#75
Are you asking if too much fuel can cause detonation? No. Too much fuel can cause hot spots though.


I've seen a lot of Pistons from the street outlaw guys and the #1 first comment on a burnt up piston is "too lean"
That's just the knee jerk reaction and response. Real tuners know you can't melt something without fuel.
 
#76
Are you asking if too much fuel can cause detonation? No. Too much fuel can cause hot spots though.


I've seen a lot of Pistons from the street outlaw guys and the #1 first comment on a burnt up piston is "too lean"
That's just the knee jerk reaction and response. Real tuners know you can't melt something without fuel.
Obviously if you have no fuel whatsoever, you can't ignite anything.

Lean causes detonation and preignition because the cylinder walls start to glow from the flame front hitting it. There is no way to stop the flame front from hitting the walls without that undissolved fuel.

Leftover carbon embers can cause preigniton and detonation in the next ignition stroke because they glow for a bit. They are usually caused by VERY rich mixtures or just downright shitty fuel.

I'm starting to think you are referring to how diesel engines like there mixtures. They like to run lean but as soon as they run rich and roll coal, you're starting to ruin your engine.

Now on almost any modern car engine, at light throttle, they run a stoicheometric AFR. This is to keep emissions low. 14.7:1 doesn't provide that fuel insulation layer, but at light throttle, that combustion isn't hot enough to do much to the bare walls of the chamber. Near full throttle though, the AFR goes to 13:1-ish to provide the fuel insulation layer. At this point, the bare chamber couldn't stand up to the heat, so the insulation is needed. A 13:1 ratio isn't as good with emissions or fuel economy as 14.7:1, but screw the environment, we want power!

Read the third paragraph: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio

I don't know how else to explain this. I don't want to sound like a jerk, but I also believed exactly what you are saying until I blew up my 4-stroke weed wacker trying to run it lean. After that, I did some research, bought another weed wacker, and ran it a bit rich. That chamber still looks new after 5 years while the lean one died after 1 year.
 
#77
Obviously if you have no fuel whatsoever, you can't ignite anything.

Lean causes detonation and preignition because the cylinder walls start to glow from the flame front hitting it. There is no way to stop the flame front from hitting the walls without that undissolved fuel.

Leftover carbon embers can cause preigniton and detonation in the next ignition stroke because they glow for a bit. They are usually caused by VERY rich mixtures or just downright shitty fuel.

I'm starting to think you are referring to how diesel engines like there mixtures. They like to run lean but as soon as they run rich and roll coal, you're starting to ruin your engine.

Now on almost any modern car engine, at light throttle, they run a stoicheometric AFR. This is to keep emissions low. 14.7:1 doesn't provide that fuel insulation layer, but at light throttle, that combustion isn't hot enough to do much to the bare walls of the chamber. Near full throttle though, the AFR goes to 13:1-ish to provide the fuel insulation layer. At this point, the bare chamber couldn't stand up to the heat, so the insulation is needed. A 13:1 ratio isn't as good with emissions or fuel economy as 14.7:1, but screw the environment, we want power!

Read the third paragraph: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air%E2%80%93fuel_ratio

I don't know how else to explain this. I don't want to sound like a jerk, but I also believed exactly what you are saying until I blew up my 4-stroke weed wacker trying to run it lean. After that, I did some research, bought another weed wacker, and ran it a bit rich. That chamber still looks new after 5 years while the lean one died after 1 year.
Your weedeater isn't making power so running it rich is just fine. I agree with everything you said regarding "lean conditions and the results of it" I'm just saying.
When you are making power, like a power adder and stuff, having it lean and I'm not talking dangerously lean either. I'm just talking about not rich or "safe" plug tuned via the timing mark and seeing how much fuel residue we have. IF I had to guess my engine is around 13.xx afr on nitrous.
That might sound too lean to some people but if it's making power and the plugs look good. Just send it. Too much fuel on a consistent basis will cause hot spots on the piston. You spray nitrous on a hot spot and it's like hitting the oxygen on a torch.
 
#78
I'll let you guys know when I melt a ground strap or something because I'm going to up the nitrous and fuel on the carb to see if it can take more or IF .016 is already more than enough to inhale.
 
#79
Your weedeater isn't making power so running it rich is just fine. I agree with everything you said regarding "lean conditions and the results of it" I'm just saying.
When you are making power, like a power adder and stuff, having it lean and I'm not talking dangerously lean either. I'm just talking about not rich or "safe" plug tuned via the timing mark and seeing how much fuel residue we have. IF I had to guess my engine is around 13.xx afr on nitrous.
That might sound too lean to some people but if it's making power and the plugs look good. Just send it. Too much fuel on a consistent basis will cause hot spots on the piston. You spray nitrous on a hot spot and it's like hitting the oxygen on a torch.
13:1 AFR is right on in my mind (I hope you mean when running on nitrous you get the equivalent of 13:1 on air). When I said "a little rich" I meant exactly that.
 
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