Old H30 needs some help

cyclopsmoore

cyclopsmoore

Member
#1
#1


I got this Cyclops survivor back in the summer and finally started trying to get her going. I had high hopes that I might get the engine running without a lot of fixing but had that idea blew up almost immediately. I drained and changed the oil without any problems. Then I put gas in the tank and had a flow of fuel from the tank through the carb like a sprinkler system. Now I have drained the fuel and am looking for the stuff that I know I will need to get her going. The engine is an H30-35519LF, serial #0191 04065. It seems to have pretty good compression and spark. Where is the best place to find a carb kit, points, condensor, air cleaner element, head gasket? Does anybody know the correct spark plug for this engine? Any pointers welcome on how best to get her running.
 
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Lucky7

New Member
#3
#3
I would just take the spark plug out. Pour a small bit of gas into the head. Put the plug back in and give it one huge pull.
 
cyclopsmoore

cyclopsmoore

Member
#4
#4
Guys, I have been in the manual, now am dangerous,

I am working on no spark troubleshooting, but also checked the compression. I have 60 psi on this engine, Is that enough for an H30?
 
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Havasu Dave

Moderator
#5
#5
I'm putting one together as well. In your first post, you say you have spark, but in your last you say you are troubleshooting spark. No spark is either a bad magneto, or most likely points are not closing and opening. The condenser wont cause a "no spark" condition, but it will cause a spark so weak you can barely see it.

Points should open at .065 inches (piston in the hole) Before TDC. I know nothing about compression, but 60 PSI seems like it would be plenty. You can pull the head off and check the bore, ring end gaps, and compare with the book of course.

For parts, I get the numbers off of parts tree website then order them via OldMiniBikes warehouse, or Ebay. Be wary of the many after market parts. I spent a long time yesterday epoxy gluing the top of the Chinese replacement magneto, because the molding was too crappy for the mag retainer wire to snap in place.

Plug is J8. At least that's what mine crossed to. :)
 
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Havasu Dave

Moderator
#6
#6
And another Cheap Chinese parts comment: I always pull the bowl off of the new cheapo carb before installation. Yesterday I found the bottom jet/bowl retaining piece to be torqued on a LOT of pressure. So much so, that the carb gasket on the bottom was completely deformed, smashed, and unusable. Not surprisingly, the float was so far out of adjustment that the tank was smashed completely.

None of this is a big deal, and for the most part these carbs work fine. But check 'em first to avoid trouble later.

Most of the ignition components are the same on several Tecumseh FH engines.

Points 30547A
Condenser 30548A
Magneto 30560A
Carb (Float type) 631921
 
cyclopsmoore

cyclopsmoore

Member
#7
#7
Got some local diagnostic help from a real small engine repair shop today. Points are gaped propely and working. We could only get a weak and very infrequent spark while turning the engine with a drill. Bad magneto is our assessment. I am probably going to move this one over to the for sale forum before I sink more into her. I have put a Tec 631921 OEM carb on her (not chinese), new filter element and condenser. My local guys says you need at least 70 psi compression to get one to fire and I am not going to go into the case to fix the compression issue. If I had more compression, I would fight on but I have a new in the box Lifan that I have been holding for 5 years that I think I am going to focus on instead of this old girl.
 
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Havasu Dave

Moderator
#8
#8
That is too bad. Had you mentioned you wouldn't be cracking the side cover, I would not have commented.

For anyone else reading this:

They will run on much lower compression than the "100 PSI standard," according to the on-line forums, but they definitely won't run if the points are set at .020 at TDC. The timing is set so the points open at a specific point (.065 in this case) and a .020 TDC point gap won't always allow this. (You slide the magneto plate with an ohm meter on the points, and the piston set in the hole the requisite amount)

Something tells me your small engine shop assumed TDC was the timing point.

New rings, end gap set, and a valve lap are generally all that is required to get them running, provided the timing is set correctly. Because it is a somewhat tedious process, a lot of people don't bother and slap on an import OHV.
 
cyclopsmoore

cyclopsmoore

Member
#16
#16
cyclopsmoore said:
I am going to pull the head and see what the cylinder looks like and price a new magneto before I decide which way i am going with the h30.
Click to expand...
I pulled the head and it was carboned up pretty good, but cleaned up easily as did the valves, cylinder looks good, but i found another problem. The fly wheel end of the crankshaft is missing approx 3/8-1/2 " of its threads. there are only about 3 threads for the nut to make up to hold the flywheel. I do not see a way to fix other than replace the crankshaft. A new one is $97.00. Money pit getting deeper. does anyone have an idea on how to fix or have a good used donor crank that fits this old H30-355191F model that they would part with?
 
chipper

chipper

#18
#18
cyclopsmoore said:
I pulled the head and it was carboned up pretty good, but cleaned up easily as did the valves, cylinder looks good, but i found another problem. The fly wheel end of the crankshaft is missing approx 3/8-1/2 " of its threads. there are only about 3 threads for the nut to make up to hold the flywheel. I do not see a way to fix other than replace the crankshaft. A new one is $97.00. Money pit getting deeper. does anyone have an idea on how to fix or have a good used donor crank that fits this old H30-355191F model that they would part with?
Click to expand...
Don't give up , that mini deserves the correct engine it's too nice of a survivor , Bike kinda looks familiar too :thumbsup:
 
bikebudy

bikebudy

Banned - Must pay $500
#19
#19
cyclopsmoore said:
I pulled the head and it was carboned up pretty good, but cleaned up easily as did the valves, cylinder looks good, but i found another problem. The fly wheel end of the crankshaft is missing approx 3/8-1/2 " of its threads. there are only about 3 threads for the nut to make up to hold the flywheel. I do not see a way to fix other than replace the crankshaft. A new one is $97.00. Money pit getting deeper. does anyone have an idea on how to fix or have a good used donor crank that fits this old H30-355191F model that they would part with?
Click to expand...
Its the same story as my HS40, I've never had it happen before but, the crank problem has a history and it not a new thing.
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/tecumseh-engines/123735-tec-hs40-crank-question.html

If you are looking for a engine ( is yours a side pooper ? )
 
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