Painting...
- Thread starter woodstoockboi
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- Tags painting...
Dupli-Color or krylon either one is good paint. You want to use a good primer but first use a good grease and wax remover to promote adhesion. Preparation is the key to a good paint job lasting the test of time. I did a scuff & shoot on mine and it's coming off but it wasn't mine at the time, I just ended up with it. I'll be painting it again one day but it's not urgent.
Preping is the key to a good paint job, you'll want Green Scotch-Brite, Maron and then Gray pads. You'll want to use a cleaner before starting any painting, Wax and Grease Remover would be fine in most cases. Once the bikes ready for primer I'd go with a self etching primer, top it off with the color of your choice using Rust-Oleum Paint. A couple of tips, never touch area to be paint with bare hands/fingers ( wear latex gloves ), follow directions on primer and paint cans, keep dust down to a minimum and wear some type of mask. Hope that helps some.
Here is number 21:laugh: I totally agree with everyone on the prep before paint as they are spot on!!:thumbsup: But.... here comes the ( If it were me ) part..... You bought the bike used and it has been repainted by the previous owner. Some people like to spray extra paint around the welds to make them look smoother. If you are going to go through all of the work of taking everything off of the frame, right now might be a good time to purchase a good paint stripper like Klean-Strip or something like it and take off all of the paint. Once you have done that you can really get a good look at all of the welds to make sure you don’t have to repair and repaint again in a few months. Yes, it is messy and will add a little more to the cost of your paint job? ( less sand paper ) but you will sure know a lot more about the condition of your frame!
As for the paint, I have sure fallen in love with the Rust-Oleum (Professional) High Performance Enamel. It comes in a taller 15 oz. can vs. the standard 12 oz. Pros: Coverage is great, Durability is high, Gloss is very high, Dry time fast. Cons: Costs a little more, Limited colors ( red, yellow, blue, gray, black, white, flat black and flat white) May be some extra colors depending on your local hardware store. Great stuff!!!
Just my 2 cents bro!! I wish you all the best and what ever you do with it have a blast and show us some pic’s!!
Later, HL :thumbsup:
As for the paint, I have sure fallen in love with the Rust-Oleum (Professional) High Performance Enamel. It comes in a taller 15 oz. can vs. the standard 12 oz. Pros: Coverage is great, Durability is high, Gloss is very high, Dry time fast. Cons: Costs a little more, Limited colors ( red, yellow, blue, gray, black, white, flat black and flat white) May be some extra colors depending on your local hardware store. Great stuff!!!
Just my 2 cents bro!! I wish you all the best and what ever you do with it have a blast and show us some pic’s!!
Later, HL :thumbsup:
I agree with Half Link about the Rustoleum, plus, if you have questions about what to do or not to do, you can call their 800 number, and they are very helpful. Filler primer will help if you have small imperfections or pits in the metal. I have to fight the urge to put on too much of the stuff at one time, because you can get a really smooth and glossy look by spraying on a think layer of paint, but I think you will get better long term results by spraying a tac coat lightly, then follow by two or three more light coats. Just my method though.
I happen to agree with HALFLINK as well. He's the one that turned me on to this stuff a long time ago. I have painted many bicycles with this stuff and it's the only paint I'll trust. The trick to this stuff is don't let it dry too long before recoating. I'd say reaply coats every five minutes and do enough until your saticefied that it's plenty. I'm a big believer in rattle can now.
As far as the gas and oil issue is concerned you can always try an engine enamel. More variety of colors but still not as good as Rusto Professional.
As far as the gas and oil issue is concerned you can always try an engine enamel. More variety of colors but still not as good as Rusto Professional.
Don't rattle can it. Your paint won't hold up to gas no matter what you do. It's bet to spry the paint through a air gun with hardener and it will be bullet proof or gas grease anything.
Agree. Although not many people have the setup for spraying urethane paints. I cant understand why some are advising to strip to bare metal just to use a 1K product (rattle can). I am using urethane on mine and still dont feel it necessary to strip it.I have been an automotive painter for 20 years and this is my opinion
Agree. Although not many people have the setup for spraying urethane paints. I cant understand why some are advising to strip to bare metal just to use a 1K product (rattle can). I am using urethane on mine and still dont feel it necessary to strip it.I have been an automotive painter for 20 years and this is my opinion
I just picked up a new HF 6.5 today and I went with the Rusto Professional in gloss black for the cover and recoil assy. The cover I just sanded primed and painted. The recoil cover I stripped with aircraft paint remover then primed and painted. I just shot it today so I dont know how well its gonna hold up. It looks nice as of now 