Post your easy, cheap, or free modifications Here!

#1
Hey everyone,

I thought this might make for a good topic. Like a lot of people my favorite modifications are the ones that are free, like removing a governor. Flipping tires around to change traction in different conditions ect.

So here goes... While putting my new Max torque clutch on, the label says to oil every 2 hours with 30 wt oil. Well the small slit your supposed to oil isn't going to allow much oil into the bearing. I decided to make 3 small notches in the clutch to allow oil to be drawn more easily into the bearing. I am also using a more appropriate 90wt gear oil. In the picture you can see I lined up the 3 factory notches to mine. It works perfectly! When you put a drop of oil in the notch and turn the clutch all the oil is drawn in.

So lets hear you tips and tricks!
Jordon
 
#2
well you can port the head thats some hp waiting to be unleashed. and on the 6.5 you can remove the baffle out of the stock exhaust for some more hp. and drill out the jet in the carb when you do those other wise you will be really lean. idk of any other free hp though. o and i use a high temp grease on my clutch for the bearing. on the bearing you know those slots they hold the grease well and it works for a while longer than oil for shure
 
#3
in regards to the to the California motor SKU# 66014 the lip on the "L" gas tank can be hacked off with an angle grinder, HF basically welded an extra 2 inches to meet CA. CARB & EPA certification and other crap as well, anyone can modify their tank so long as they don't cut too much, they will just need to purchase the 66015 gas cap, and like magic it will fit into the DB30 frame. when i get a chance i will post some pics. just thought this would be useful info.:hack:
 
Last edited:
#4
Just be careful using an angle grinder on your gas tank, use common sense is all, lol.

Free cheap mods?

Hmm, the best one I can think of is a header. Cut your stock muffler off right right where it goes into the muffler. Use the flange and pipe to make the header. I used electrical conduit. Braze it on if you plan on running it bare or painted, weld it on if you plan on using header wrap.
 
#5
Increase compression ratio by eliminating head gasket.
Lap gasket surfaces (head and block) using valve grinding compound until they are a uniform gray color for the entire circumference.
I use Clover 320 grit grinding compound for lapping surfaces.
Permatex Super “300” Form-A-Gasket Sealant or Permatex Hylomar HPF is used for sealing.
This procedure is the equivalent of milling .040" (assumed gasket thickness) off head.
Takes about 40 minutes (by hand) per surface.
Check for combustion chamber clearances first.
Make sure engine is completely clean of grinding compound before reassembly.
Power increase is noticeable.
 
#6
Easy, cheap, and free mods to a 5.5/6.5 clone:
- Remove governor
- Advance timing
- Cut every other fin off the plastic flywheel fan
- Racing filter, header, and re-jet carb (this is where the real power is at)
- Use a Honda GX140 emulsion tube
- Milling and porting your head
- Cutting the baffles out of the stock muffler is a good trick
- 18pd valve springs and 1.2-1.3 ratio rockers are also cheap HP parts but if running those and doing some of the mods I listed your definetly going to want to get a billet rod and flywheel
- Also for those of you that didint know swapping parts from the 5.5 to the 6.5 can also really help. Any 5.5 head will add compression to a 6.5. Also a 6.5 carb venturi is slightly larger than the 5.5, the 6.5 cam also has more lift than a 5.5 and the 6.5 head gasket is also thinner than a 5.5 and will add compression.
 
Top