Power Fist 196cc
- Thread starter Jray440
- Start date
There are generators, power-washers, trash pumps, log splitters, (and others) that use this identical power plant.
They all run at 3,600 rpm out of the box... meaning that they are immediately put into service without break-in. In fact, so called "break-in" is not possible without some partial disassembly of equipment.:thumbdown:
Your engine is no different.
I would not recommend modifying engine (including governor removal) until engine has been run for a minimum of 5 hours under normal operating conditions. After the first 5 hours of operation, the oil (sae 30 or 10w30) should be changed.
If manual says to do otherwise, then by all means do exactly what it says.
Immediately putting into service will not hurt it.
They all run at 3,600 rpm out of the box... meaning that they are immediately put into service without break-in. In fact, so called "break-in" is not possible without some partial disassembly of equipment.:thumbdown:
Your engine is no different.
I would not recommend modifying engine (including governor removal) until engine has been run for a minimum of 5 hours under normal operating conditions. After the first 5 hours of operation, the oil (sae 30 or 10w30) should be changed.
If manual says to do otherwise, then by all means do exactly what it says.
Immediately putting into service will not hurt it.
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Some engines are shipped with "shipping oil" in them; it is to prevent rust and is not intended for lubrication. Lifan, for example, specifies that the oil must be changed before starting the engine and that not doing so will void the warranty (a least on some of their engines; not sure if that applies to all of their engines). I would suggest pulling the side cover and checking inside for any debris; it's not uncommon for new small engines to have metal cuttings in the sump. I would also check the valve lash before starting. I would use good non-synthetic oil for break in, then switch to synthetic made for air-cooled motorcycles (I use Mobil 1 V-twin, but it's 20w-50; probably not ideal for Canada; I've been running it in a 725cc B&S v-twin powered lawn tractor for 11 years with no engine problems). Everyone has their own opinion on oil. The first oil change is very important, to get the break in wear particles out of there; I'd do it after 5-6 hours of use. As already stated, check the manual. As far as how to run it during break in, I would just ride it; varying engine speed is a good thing for breaking in any engine. With the governor intact, you aren't going to hurt it, but I wouldn't run it wide open for long periods. Lots of widely varying opinions on how to break in an engine.
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I would pull the side cover and use care in not ripping the gasket. Inspect the inside of the block making sure there is no bits of metal left over from the manufacturing and assembly process. Wipe all the oil out with a clean rag. If you have a small torque wrench you could check the torque (9 ft. lbs. or 108 in. lbs) of the rod bolts. You could also crack them loose then tighten to spec. Put the side cover back on and tighten to 17 ft. lbs. or 204 in lbs. Fill it with 18oz of any 30w or 10w30 oil. Start the engine and allow it to idle with occasional slow revs to full throttle. After the engine is warmed up run it hard and put a half hour or so of run time. Now change the oil to a better quality 10w30. Save the oil you removed for your oil can.
One of my 3 Harbor freight greyhounds had a loose rod bolt right out of the box. All three were loaded with metal shavings. The 2 Hisun engines I have were very clean inside. Hope your power fist is clean.
Or you could avoid any mishaps and just fill it with oil and run it. The above is just what I would do.
One of my 3 Harbor freight greyhounds had a loose rod bolt right out of the box. All three were loaded with metal shavings. The 2 Hisun engines I have were very clean inside. Hope your power fist is clean.
Or you could avoid any mishaps and just fill it with oil and run it. The above is just what I would do.
Something I have not seen mentioned on here (or elsewhere) is using both oil drains; you would need to use both to drain all of the oil. Using only the front drain will get most of the oil out, though. I remember seeing a build thread where, due to a tight fit, the front drain plug was cut flush and the engine pushed forward with a frame cross-tube blocking access to the cut down plug. The person who did it said it was no problem as he would just use the rear drain. I thought that was a bad idea because doing that would leave a good bit of oil (and crud) in the sump. There is a boss that divides the sump, near the rear, up to a certain level; see the first picture in post #108 of linked thread to see what I'm referring to.
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/honda-clone-predator/86170-predator-212cc-hemi-upgrade-11.html
https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/honda-clone-predator/86170-predator-212cc-hemi-upgrade-11.html
I strongly disagree with the idea of engine disassembly for satisfying the OP's original question.
I just can't imagine pulling apart any gasoline powered equipment after I've used it for awhile simply because it's new.
All new engines will have debris in them... whether it's a BMW, Chevrolet, or an Edsel...hence the need for first early oil change.
Disassembly is not needed for any reason. There is a warranty for a reason...use it if necessary.
Just follow the manual and engine will last until you decide to upgrade.
Keep it simple.
I just can't imagine pulling apart any gasoline powered equipment after I've used it for awhile simply because it's new.
All new engines will have debris in them... whether it's a BMW, Chevrolet, or an Edsel...hence the need for first early oil change.
Disassembly is not needed for any reason. There is a warranty for a reason...use it if necessary.
Just follow the manual and engine will last until you decide to upgrade.
Keep it simple.
It's much easier to check a few things before using the engine than it is to remove and replace the engine later. As far as comparing automotive engines to these, the automotive engines have oil filters that the oil passes through before going to the bearings and valvetrain; they also don't have a side cover that can be easily removed to check the sump. There have been plenty of reports of new engines having trash inside, and some reports of the rocker arms being installed improperly or lash being out of spec. If you prefer to just gas and go, that's fine. I'd rather check a few things before firing the engine, and fire the engine before installing it; avoid rework.
Agreed. These little engines need to work to "break-in" properly. For the ring to seat properly, you need to put it straight to work, let it get hot and do some real work. I always go with 10w30 conventional for the first 5 hours or so, then switch to synthetic, then do the mods.
As far as dissembling and all that, na. Just run the motor, man. This ain't a Chevy 350 small block, man. It's stinking $150 power generator motor. It ain't worth my time for all that. If you want change the oil a couple times in that first five hours, but even that isn't worth it.
As far as dissembling and all that, na. Just run the motor, man. This ain't a Chevy 350 small block, man. It's stinking $150 power generator motor. It ain't worth my time for all that. If you want change the oil a couple times in that first five hours, but even that isn't worth it.
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I use Mobil1 5w-30 for everything small & air cooled, no failures so far. Fill with oil, run it hard to begin with, change the oil after an hour or two. Done & run. Change the oil regularly to keep these engines running long & strong. It ain't rocket science, pulling hard after it's running will cause the rings to seat properly, since compression is needed to force the ring into the bore from pressure behind the ring. Best way to do this is to have a load on the motor & build some rpms, to force the rings to expand hard against the cylinder walls & wear properly.
Myth 1 - a ZDP additive is necessary for a flat tappet cam setup (modern oils have zinc in them now, additives can reduce the oil's lubricity)
Myth 2 - let it idle for a few hours first (top ring won't seat properly this way, blow-by, loss of power, oil burning, fuel in oil)
Myth 3 - synthetic oil won't let your engine break in properly (better check with all the car manufacturers who use it in their engines)
Myth 1 - a ZDP additive is necessary for a flat tappet cam setup (modern oils have zinc in them now, additives can reduce the oil's lubricity)
Myth 2 - let it idle for a few hours first (top ring won't seat properly this way, blow-by, loss of power, oil burning, fuel in oil)
Myth 3 - synthetic oil won't let your engine break in properly (better check with all the car manufacturers who use it in their engines)
I use 10w/30 because that's what they recommend. 5w would be fine. Years ago I read that many of the guys who race go karts were using 5w in their clones.
I use 5w in my 6.5 Greyhound powered snowblower. Started that thing today and it took 4 pulls. The first 3 pulls was with the switch turned off. :doah: :laugh:
I use 5w in my 6.5 Greyhound powered snowblower. Started that thing today and it took 4 pulls. The first 3 pulls was with the switch turned off. :doah: :laugh:
