Predator 212 on CT200U

#1
I bought a CT200U a few weeks ago, the engine didn't want to stop accelerating, ever, and I got tired of messing with it unsuccessfully. Last night I bought a Predator 212 engine to install on this thing. I'm using a new clutch that I bought for the old engine. Anyhow, when I mount the engine on the bike, I noticed the sprocket on the engine doesnt line up with the sprocket on the wheel, I'm guessing I have to drill new holes? What else do i need to do to complete this? Thanks in advance.
 

old shed finds

Well-Known Member
#2
Engine to rear wheel? Sounds like your bike is missing the jackshaft assembly. . that explain the alignment problem. ..Spend 80 bucks or so more and get the TAV kit and really make it fun..Lots of How to swap on YouTube channels...
 

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#3
Engine to rear wheel? Sounds like your bike is missing the jackshaft assembly. . that explain the alignment problem. ..Spend 80 bucks or so more and get the TAV kit and really make it fun..Lots of How to swap on YouTube channels...
Sorry, I don't really know my terms yet, still learning. I'm not trying to soup this thing up too much, my daughter will be riding it.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#4
Sorry, I don't really know my terms yet, still learning. I'm not trying to soup this thing up too much, my daughter will be riding it.
The 212 is a direct replacement for the original Hisun engine the bike came with. It has the same footprint and overall dimensions.

Did you get a bike that had parts missing? The jackshaft is the gear reduction system that bolts onto the engine, has a small chain with sprockets and chain tensioner. If you bolt that assembly onto the 212 everything should line up.

If I were you I would compare the linkage and throttle arrangement on the 212 versus the original engine. This may clue you into why the governor/throttle is not working properly on the original engine. If you find the issue you could return the 212. Those Hisun engines are decent engines.

Was this brand new or did you get it used? Too often some people manipulate the linkage to go faster and end up causing problems similar to what you are seeing.
 
#5
This is the linkage from the hisun, I dont know what the dude did with it. I have replaced the springs, it is no longer running behind that plate. It originally wanted to take off on it's own, couldn't turn the choke off nor it died, but, if I held the governer arm back, the wheel stopped spinning on its own and i could turn the choke off without it dying. I pulled the carb off and cleaned it and when I reinstalled it I had a similar but different problem, the wheel wasnt moving most of time with the choke on, but as soon as you turn the choke off it would go full throttle. I have checked and the governor gear is still in the engine. I'm trying to learn, and I just want to get this thing running for my daughter. I figured if I got the new engine I could go from there, atleast when something went wrong, I would have a slight idea as to what happened before. I truly do appreciate anyone who takes the time to help me.
 

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#6
The 212 is a direct replacement for the original Hisun engine the bike came with. It has the same footprint and overall dimensions.

Did you get a bike that had parts missing? The jackshaft is the gear reduction system that bolts onto the engine, has a small chain with sprockets and chain tensioner. If you bolt that assembly onto the 212 everything should line up.

If I were you I would compare the linkage and throttle arrangement on the 212 versus the original engine. This may clue you into why the governor/throttle is not working properly on the original engine. If you find the issue you could return the 212. Those Hisun engines are decent engines.

Was this brand new or did you get it used? Too often some people manipulate the linkage to go faster and end up causing problems similar to what you are seeing.
Also the jackshaft off the hisun engine does not fit right on the predator, seemingly because of the second oil dipstick in the back of the engine.
 
#7
The 212 is a direct replacement for the original Hisun engine the bike came with. It has the same footprint and overall dimensions.

Did you get a bike that had parts missing? The jackshaft is the gear reduction system that bolts onto the engine, has a small chain with sprockets and chain tensioner. If you bolt that assembly onto the 212 everything should line up.

If I were you I would compare the linkage and throttle arrangement on the 212 versus the original engine. This may clue you into why the governor/throttle is not working properly on the original engine. If you find the issue you could return the 212. Those Hisun engines are decent engines.

Was this brand new or did you get it used? Too often some people manipulate the linkage to go faster and end up causing problems similar to what you are seeing.
I figured out the issue with the jackshaft not fitting, it was just the heat shield.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#8
This is the linkage from the hisun, I dont know what the dude did with it. I have replaced the springs, it is no longer running behind that plate. It originally wanted to take off on it's own, couldn't turn the choke off nor it died, but, if I held the governer arm back, the wheel stopped spinning on its own and i could turn the choke off without it dying. I pulled the carb off and cleaned it and when I reinstalled it I had a similar but different problem, the wheel wasnt moving most of time with the choke on, but as soon as you turn the choke off it would go full throttle. I have checked and the governor gear is still in the engine. I'm trying to learn, and I just want to get this thing running for my daughter. I figured if I got the new engine I could go from there, atleast when something went wrong, I would have a slight idea as to what happened before. I truly do appreciate anyone who takes the time to help me.
Easy fix. He had the blower housing off (just 4 bolts) and pinched the throttle spring when he put the housing back on. Super common issue.

Pull the blower housing off and carefully install it correctly. Problem solved.

Kinda makes me wonder why he had the blower housing off in the first place.
 
#9
Easy fix. He had the blower housing off (just 4 bolts) and pinched the throttle spring when he put the housing back on. Super common issue.

Pull the blower housing off and carefully install it correctly. Problem solved.

Kinda makes me wonder why he had the blower housing off in the first place.
I dont think anything was pinched in there when I took it off to disconnect the killswitch.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#10
I dont think anything was pinched in there when I took it off to disconnect the killswitch.
Sorry but I missed something. The tiny spring at the end of the governor arm. That spring should go into the same hole as the governor rod not the hole that it is in on your picture.
 
#11
Sorry but I missed something. The tiny spring at the end of the governor arm. That spring should go into the same hole as the governor rod not the hole that it is in on your picture.
Another thing I forgot to mention is that it was accelerating on it's own even with the throttle cable disconnected.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#12
As long as the throttle spring wasn't too mangled after it was cleared from the blower housing, and the tiny spring is corrected, it should be ok. You should be able to start it off the bike to test it. Set it on a piece of wood and start it. To shut it off pull the spark plug wire off.

When you start it off the bike find a way to keep the throttle in the idle position.
 
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#14
This is how the governor spring should be hooked up in the picture I provided.
I have since gotten new springs and they are routed properly. I did a bunch of stuff since my post the other week to no avail. Today, I got my predator engine installed, everything is working great now. Only thing i want to figure out, I still want a kill switch on the handle bars for my daughter's sake, can I wire one into the predator motor as well?
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#15
Sure could. The on/off switch on the engine has three connection points. One goes to engine ground. One goes to the coil, and one connects to the oil low sensor. Disconnect the wire to the low oil sensor and plug the kill switch from the handle bar to there. Connect the other kill switch wire anywhere to engine ground. Now you have two ways to shut off the engine. Leave the switch on the engine in the on position and use the handlebar kill switch.

All the kill switch does is provide a path from ground to the coil to stop the engine.

The low oil sensor is not needed in the mini bike and go kart application. Doing the above takes it out of the system and it is no longer a concern. But now you have to make sure there is oil in the engine when you start it. When the oil sensor was connected properly the engine would never start unless it had enough oil in it. It will start now whether there is oil or not. It is there as an engine saver for unattended applications. If oil started puking out when no one was around it would stop the engine before it got ruined.
 
#16
Sure could. The on/off switch on the engine has three connection points. One goes to engine ground. One goes to the coil, and one connects to the oil low sensor. Disconnect the wire to the low oil sensor and plug the kill switch from the handle bar to there. Connect the other kill switch wire anywhere to engine ground. Now you have two ways to shut off the engine. Leave the switch on the engine in the on position and use the handlebar kill switch.

All the kill switch does is provide a path from ground to the coil to stop the engine.

The low oil sensor is not needed in the mini bike and go kart application. Doing the above takes it out of the system and it is no longer a concern. But now you have to make sure there is oil in the engine when you start it. When the oil sensor was connected properly the engine would never start unless it had enough oil in it. It will start now whether there is oil or not. It is there as an engine saver for unattended applications. If oil started puking out when no one was around it would stop the engine before it got ruined.
Thank you, I will wire that up tomorrow, it will be much safer for her than having to reach down. I will always be checking the oil before running, so a disconnected oil sensor isnt a problem. From what I can tell, the hisun I took off is set up the exact same around the throttle linkage, so im not sure why it wants to take off on it's own. I probably shouldnt have bought another motor, but I was being impatient and really wanted this thing running for my daughter. Now that it is running, if I come across a frame, I will buy it, since I already have the motor and I'll be more patient
 
#18
I figured out the issue with the jackshaft not fitting, it was just the heat shield.
I'm guessing that what you're calling a heat shield is the cooling ducting/schroud. The ducting directs cooling air, from the blower/fan, around the cylinder and head. If you remove the ducting, the engine will run hotter, the cooling fan will no longer serve a purpose without the ducting to direct the airflow. I'm no expert on these engines but I imagine it would run much hotter without the airflow around the cylinder and head. If anyone has tested this with a pyrometer, I'd be interested in the results.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#19
I'm guessing that what you're calling a heat shield is the cooling ducting/schroud. The ducting directs cooling air, from the blower/fan, around the cylinder and head. If you remove the ducting, the engine will run hotter, the cooling fan will no longer serve a purpose without the ducting to direct the airflow. I'm no expert on these engines but I imagine it would run much hotter without the airflow around the cylinder and head. If anyone has tested this with a pyrometer, I'd be interested in the results.
That is an interesting subject with a lot of different opinions. Some guys who race with these engines will tape up the blower housing intakes to get the engine running hotter for better performance.

Dyno cams recommends blocking all but one of the blower housing recoil air intakes because the PVL flywheel fins move so much air.

Some will poo poo the concern and say they run without the tin and never had a problem. They may be right for the mini bike and go kart application. But as a stationary utility engine on a calm hot day it may become an issue. And we have to remember that Honda didn't design these engines for mini bikes and go karts where you get air flow from the act of riding. The tin stays on my engines. There's no reason to remove it.
 
#20
That is an interesting subject with a lot of different opinions. Some guys who race with these engines will tape up the blower housing intakes to get the engine running hotter for better performance.

Dyno cams recommends blocking all but one of the blower housing recoil air intakes because the PVL flywheel fins move so much air.

Some will poo poo the concern and say they run without the tin and never had a problem. They may be right for the mini bike and go kart application. But as a stationary utility engine on a calm hot day it may become an issue. And we have to remember that Honda didn't design these engines for mini bikes and go karts where you get air flow from the act of riding. The tin stays on my engines. There's no reason to remove it.
I'm never going to race a minibike or go-kart so I'm more concerned with longevity than maximum performance for a short period of time before the next rebuild. The reclined cylinder is far from optimal for cooling just from the bike's movement and a recreational minibike is going spend some time at idle and low speed. It stays on mine, too.
 
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