repair after setting with gas for a year

[2ball]

I let my Coleman CT200 sit for a year with gas in the tank. It wouldn't start. when I looked in the gas tank the cap started to rust and the strainer that is right under the gas cap also was rusty. rust particles were flaking off into the gas. There was something(gummy dirt on the bottom of the gas tank. the gummy dirt does not come off too easily. I put a rag in there and could not get much of it up.

I assume I will have to;
clean the carb
take off and clean the gas tank?
replace of clean the gas cap and strainer

any advice to cleaning the gas tank?
also I guess its probably time to change the spark plug.

 

[Rapidrob]

Make sure you have a fuel filter in line as well.
To clean your gas tank, you can use a box of flat washers or lock washers. The more you have, the results will be better. The rougher the edge the washers,the cleaner your tank will be. Use Diesel fuel or Kerosene as a *solvent and shake the gas tank with the cap on for several minutes. The washers or what ever you end up using, will remove almost all of the gunk and light rust. Drain and flush out with Brake Cleaner or gasoline. ( do not use gasoline as the solvent!)

 

[FOMOGO]

Make sure you have a fuel filter in line as well.
To clean your gas tank, you can use a box of flat washers or lock washers. The more you have, the results will be better. The rougher the edge the washers,the cleaner your tank will be. Use Diesel fuel or Kerosene as a *solvent and shake the gas tank with the cap on for several minutes. )

We always used anything we had on hand. Bolts, washers, nuts and some chain. Then we got tired of shaking the tanks and wised up. We put them in the bed of the truck and they rode around for a week. Turned them everyday to cover all sides. They would be nasty when you cleaned them out after that. We did them dry first but figured out very quickly to put Diesel fuel in them as it was what we had on hand. Works like a charm.

 

[DaddyJohn]

I'd say your assumptions are correct.

If it's just goo in the bottom of the tank (not rust), a little acetone will thin it and let you dump it out.

On the cap, I'd remove whatever rust you can, or replace it. You don't really need the strainer (I find them to be more of a PITA than they're worth).

A fuel filter is definitely a good idea if you can fit one.

You can do a new plug, but if it looks good and doesn't have much or any electrode erosion, I'd just re-gap and keep using it.

 

[Tom S.]

Use Diesel fuel or Kerosene as a *solvent and shake...

Good tips. Knocking the rust down might also revel some pinholes and a new project opportunity. When you're finished cleaning the tank, drain the solvent back into the can to use again. I pass the juice through a coffee filter lining an old sieve on its way back to the can. Once the rust and gooey gasoline residue are removed, try to keep the tank filled w/alcohol-free fuel. Condensation is more likely to form in a near-empty tank than in one which is full of fuel, and it takes a lot longer for goo to form in a full tank. The best way to avoid problems is to run the engine regularly.

 

[2ball]

thanks for the info.

Just to clarify, I probably don't have a fuel filter right now, but I should add one on the line that runs between the gas tank and the carb?

I probably have a quarter inch fuel line?
If I find a fuel filter at advanced auto of home depot. that would work?

 

[DaddyJohn]

You're probably going to need something more compact that what you can find at the auto parts store. A Briggs p/n 298090S filter (red is gravity feed) might work for you, and you can get them cheap. Your local hardware store probably even has them. If you need another option to squeeze in there, you can get a 90 degree cone-shaped motorcycle filter. Would be interested in hearing other options people use!

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335845805&icep_item=264053120225

 

[Rapidrob]

Home Depot and Tractor Supply sell filters that will fit.

 

[SAS289]

I also let my Coleman sit for over a year without running it. It was blocked in my garage by tons of crap. I took it out recently after cleaning the garage. After three pulls I decided to check for gas and the tank was empty. I initially wanted to see if it would start on the old stabil treated fuel. Don't recall draining it. If anything I would have pulled the bowl off to remove all fuel. After adding fuel it started right up and ran well.

 

[SAS289]

Today I took a peek in my tank to see how much fuel was in it and saw floaters. Rust floaters.

Pulled the tank and drained through a coffee filter which near the end was clogged with the rust particles. Blasted it out with the hose, then a half can of WD. Then filled it with white vinegar. It could sit there for a week or so then I could go from there.

Looks like at the end of the season these tanks should be drained and prepped for the winter.

 

[Doc1976]

If it sat long enough for the fuel to varnish in the tank, then you will need to clean the carb most likely.

As far as cleaning the tank, all above are good, I use acetone for gummed up gas it works quickly. Unfortunately its a little pricey. For rust in the tank I usually use electrolysis.

 

[Mini'malist]

I recently cleaned a Powell minibike Briggs engine that had 30 something years of sitting WITH GAS IN IT. White vinegar, carb cleaner, garden hose nozzle.
I've got a twenty year old mower that starts in 1 or 2 pulls every spring. I store it with Sta-Bil. 22 year old generator same thing... I never drain the gas. Sta-Bil.

 

[Steve73]

add a little sea-foam to your gas to prevent that from happening again..

 

[DaddyJohn]

Today I took a peek in my tank to see how much fuel was in it and saw floaters. Rust floaters.

Pulled the tank and drained through a coffee filter which near the end was clogged with the rust particles. Blasted it out with the hose, then a half can of WD. Then filled it with white vinegar. It could sit there for a week or so then I could go from there.

Looks like at the end of the season these tanks should be drained and prepped for the winter.

Really, you should fill it to the top with ethanol free fuel, and add a stabilizer. The reason to fill it is a metal tank will rust from condensation above the liquid line. The reason for ethanol free is ethanol gas will attract moisture (water) from the atmosphere and cause rust below the liquid line. It also deteriorates more quickly and clogs things up. I would say to empty your carb bowl though, to keep fuel from sitting in the carb and gumming it up.