RUPP - Richmond, VA

Harquebus

Well-Known Member
#4
For that kind of price, I would at least expect it to have the correct shocks and fuel line
Alright, let's nitpick this further. "Restoration" is a very loose term nowadays (it can mean anything).

LEDs front and rear? No thanks, I prefer crappy incandescent/filament bulbs
I thought that color was called Nassau Blue, not "Panama Blue"?
Aren't the cables supposed to be gray, not black?
Billet connecting rod? He's 'adding value' I guess

For that kind of money, I too expect everything to be right on and not according to his particular whim.
 

ruppking

Active Member
#5
Alright, let's nitpick this further. "Restoration" is a very loose term nowadays (it can mean anything).

LEDs front and rear? No thanks, I prefer crappy incandescent/filament bulbs
I thought that color was called Nassau Blue, not "Panama Blue"?
Aren't the cables supposed to be gray, not black?
Billet connecting rod? He's 'adding value' I guess

For that kind of money, I too expect everything to be right on and not according to his particular whim.
All Rupp cables were black in 1968. The blue color is correct by whatever name you want to call it.
Engine internals.. it doesn't matter unless you want to open the engine for some reason. Slap a 5HP decal and tag on it and your good to go.
How many Hemi Cudas have OEM Chrysler parts and have not been bored oversize.
I agree it should have OEM shocks and lights. Price will be determined by a buyer.
It is a beautiful bike, regardless.
 

Rupp 72

Active Member
#8
Okay, I didn't want to but after all the comments I'm gonna weigh in here and cover this bike head to toe.

What's wrong:

  • The engine is a 7hp, this is not a value add as it can't be considered "original engine," a billet rod is no big deal but it would have to still be for the original engine which this is not
  • he has 3 electrical wires coming out the rear of the motor, in 1968 there would have only been two wires. The bikes grounded the circuit to the from directly not using a 3rd wire
  • The 2 speed is incorrect, it would have been a max torque clutch but what is on there is a crappy modern comet clutch.
  • The rear shocks are totally wrong
  • the front shock springs are wrong, in 1968 the spring was progressive, it coiled tighter at the bottom of the spring and coiled further apart at the top of the spring
  • the rear swing arm has been stretched an inch, don't believe me? look closer! there is a 1" busing between the fender and mounting bracket to account for the stretched swing arm, also if you look at the rear shock angle positing vs. a picture of a survivor it's totally different
  • The rupp "motion" decal should NOT be on the clutch cover in 68
  • The rear sprocket on a TT would be 72 tooth, what is on the bike is a 60 tooth which would have been for the XL500 and XL350
  • The break handle ferrules should be a "X" in shape, not just a regular old circle
  • The brake and throttle cables, although they are black, they are not correct
  • The tires are completely wrong
  • The lights themselves are LED's which is wrong, but beyond that, the headlight bucket should have a toggle switch on top of it and not some dumb blue indicator lamp, and the rear tail light should be an authentic PMCO which I am 95% certain based off the pictures it is not
  • Complete lack of original brake light switch, if there at all?
I'm sure there is are other things I would catch if I saw it in person but this list will have to suffice for now.

All that being said this is a very nice bike none the less, but if you're going to command that price at least be able to "walk the walk." This is a nice restored bike but this is actually very far from being original. If anyone has questions on 68 Rupp's feel free to message me. I know these bike in and out.
 
#9
Geez well goodday everyone! Never said it was original OR stock. The engine: After building hundreds of h70s, they are great for torque but will ventilate the block no problem especially with a un governed dell Orto, so i always put a 150$ billet rod in them. Also some mild porting and a copper head gasket. You can lift the bike with the recoil handle.
At 66 im losing night vision and need LEDS to see. Yes i actually ride my rupps all over the city at night bar hopping and then a long dark ride home. The "dumb" blue light is a hi beam indicator and required by law in Va. I use honda z50 brake light switches because they work. always. This bike is just one of my street legal Rupps and i gear them out so i get about 25 mph in first and 60mph in second thru the Max Torque 2 speed. Thats why it has a 60 tooth on the rear and a 15 tooth driving it. 1.5" over swingarm i built keeps it stabil at speed. you would be surprised the difference. never mind, yours does 28mph. I need it at 55.
I cook a few tires every year so the General Jumbos stay on the shelf while i use up chinese tires. Adjustable shocks and heavy duty front springs work for you as a beefy adult. The cables are from BW so bitch at jim LOL.
I stopped restoring stock examples 10 years ago. and i have been building rupps and z50s since the 60s. I no longer build show bikes to stare at or even go to shows. Im past that. Nobody bitched about the aftermarket fenders? Somebody's slipping!. i built it as a keeper, but when im ready i will call one of the 2 guys i build for and they will take it for 10. They always do. I love my job.
Heres a 69 roadster you will love. Motorsports engine, lighting coils by yours truly trickle charging a lithium battery, LED, horn, flush mounted horn and kill switches, micro three way toggle for hi/low beam. enjoy.

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#11
Okay, I didn't want to but after all the comments I'm gonna weigh in here and cover this bike head to toe.

What's wrong:

  • The engine is a 7hp, this is not a value add as it can't be considered "original engine," a billet rod is no big deal but it would have to still be for the original engine which this is not
  • he has 3 electrical wires coming out the rear of the motor, in 1968 there would have only been two wires. The bikes grounded the circuit to the from directly not using a 3rd wire
  • The 2 speed is incorrect, it would have been a max torque clutch but what is on there is a crappy modern comet clutch.
  • The rear shocks are totally wrong
  • the front shock springs are wrong, in 1968 the spring was progressive, it coiled tighter at the bottom of the spring and coiled further apart at the top of the spring
  • the rear swing arm has been stretched an inch, don't believe me? look closer! there is a 1" busing between the fender and mounting bracket to account for the stretched swing arm, also if you look at the rear shock angle positing vs. a picture of a survivor it's totally different
  • The rupp "motion" decal should NOT be on the clutch cover in 68
  • The rear sprocket on a TT would be 72 tooth, what is on the bike is a 60 tooth which would have been for the XL500 and XL350
  • The break handle ferrules should be a "X" in shape, not just a regular old circle
  • The brake and throttle cables, although they are black, they are not correct
  • The tires are completely wrong
  • The lights themselves are LED's which is wrong, but beyond that, the headlight bucket should have a toggle switch on top of it and not some dumb blue indicator lamp, and the rear tail light should be an authentic PMCO which I am 95% certain based off the pictures it is not
  • Complete lack of original brake light switch, if there at all?
I'm sure there is are other things I would catch if I saw it in person but this list will have to suffice for now.

All that being said this is a very nice bike none the less, but if you're going to command that price at least be able to "walk the walk." This is a nice restored bike but this is actually very far from being original. If anyone has questions on 68 Rupp's feel free to message me. I know these bike in and out.
you spelled brake wrong.
 

I74

Well-Known Member
#16
Quite to the contrary. i consider this an introduction to me and what i build. I totally think outside the box. Not sure why it says "new member". Been here a long time. have a good 4th.
American ingenuity is all about think'n outside the box. ;)

Pretty sure you are still shown as a new member, is because you don't have many posts yet.

''Happy 4th'' to you & everyone also !!

I
 
#17
For that kind of price, I would at least expect it to have the correct shocks and fuel line
hi cap gun! minibikerescue here from ebay i buy your parts. finally came up with a pair of sebacs for it, springs are being chromed and bodies are bare. I use the small diameter fuel hose from a dellorto parts house because my fitting on the float chamber cap is too small for the red rupp hose.
 

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#18
Quite to the contrary. i consider this an introduction to me and what i build. I totally think outside the box. Not sure why it says "new member". Been here a long time. have a good 4th.
You have made more posts in the last two days than you did from 2007-2021...they should give you a custom title like "Ultimate Lurker" instead of "New Member"!

I dig your builds yet still appreciate the purists pointing things out. Look at all the free advertising/linking you're getting.

Gonna go get my burger on...Enjoy your 4th, everyone!
 
#20
You have made more posts in the last two days than you did from 2007-2021...they should give you a custom title like "Ultimate Lurker" instead of "New Member"!

I dig your builds yet still appreciate the purists pointing things out. Look at all the free advertising/linking you're getting.

Gonna go get my burger on...Enjoy your 4th, everyone!
Purist point away! I quit doing stock bikes years ago. i just don't care anymore, dont need money. Many builds you see are spoken for or already gone. Just thought the pics could help or maybe i can answer a question to help a young'un. Digger gone, 5Gs. Goat gone, 5Gs. 3 TTs to same collector, 5500 ea. 69 roadsters 5000. Now i am doubling the prices due to parts costs. have a blessed summer and wear a helmet. see you all in another 14 years. im out!
 
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