Smog pump supercharger

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
PS...I still have that spare 4 horse, just in case. Just PM me and I'll send it.
The 4hp is a big catch 22 because the flywheel/cam and coil off a 5hp fit but no billet rod.

Comparing the 4hp setup on the right to the 5hp setup on the left I’m hoping I won’t have much trouble.

It probably has something to do with being built in 1963 but everything is so much beefier. they really thinned down the castings later on.
ECEBFD45-FC9F-4521-8DCE-652A4D057F0E.jpeg
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
15psi gauge and I don’t know how to tell if it’s right. At idle it reads nothing. At anything past half throttle cruise it jumps between 12-14psi and at WOT the gauge just pegs. I’m not thinking this pump is pushing 15+ psi but the engine pulls like an ox

If I get going wide open and let off the gauge slams from 15psi to zero in like an instant. 4EEBE193-5B63-4D14-94C6-ABD478BC0252.jpeg
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
15 PSI is hard to believe. However, I learned a long time ago...can't argue with test equipment.
Another quick check would be to see if your oil smells like gas.
I don’t think the gauge is right the first gauge broke this second one says 15psi

I’m going to order another gauge that reads above 15psi and if that one reads like this one does I’m going to be very happy as I have not even ran the pump at 1 to 1 yet.

It’s said these pumps will push 20+ psi on a 50cc so I really don’t know
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
The gauge at cruising speed flutters from 12psi to 14psi and slams instantly to 0psi when off the throttle. At WOT flying down the street the gauge pegs at 15psi.

I hooked up a third gauge and got the same results a flutter from 12-14psi and the gauge slams to zero off throttle and at WOT I got a flutter from 15-17psi.

I posted a small video of the performance and fun group of the gauge while driving. It seems to be reliably making 15+ psi
 
Does the oil burn when you put a match near it?
It's hard to believe you're not blowing oil out the vent with 15 PSI at the intake.
You have done a great job on this project!
Congratulations!
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
I took the gauge off the kart and with my lungs was only able to produce 2psi on the gauge.

Re-installed it and again WOT full blast it pegged at 15psi..

Could the comp release if this 1963 engine has one be messing with the gauge reading?
 
I think your gage is correct.
If your compression bump is on the intake lobe, it should allow MORE air into the cylinder. (theoretically, anyway)
I'm amazed your not blowing past the rings and blowing the oil out of the crank case.
An old, brass heater core would make a nice intercooler.
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
I think your gage is correct.
If your compression bump is on the intake lobe, it should allow MORE air into the cylinder. (theoretically, anyway)
I'm amazed your not blowing past the rings and blowing the oil out of the crank
case. An old, brass heater core would make a nice intercooler.
I think that’s where Justin W went wrong he added that intercooler. I also noticed in his video he never sealed up the holes all through the pump body of the pump he was using. The 4hp engine does not run hot at all. Much cooler then my 5hp’s

I’m basing this engine of his engine and my 350

-pulley driven
-no burst plate
-low boost

I was told the pump had to move a certain amount for the little 4hp to run at all. And I didn’t think I’d get anymore then 2psi like Justin’s engine. If the 15psi reading is correct that is phenomenal in my opinion. Got wayyy more then I’d hoped for. 0DB6D53A-7D02-423B-86EA-23E086A40BBC.jpeg
 
Didn't I read that you observed your intake pipe was warm or hot at the intake port? If that black steel pipe was hot, it was either compressed air heat or blower friction heat. Either way, an intercooler would cool it down. An intercooler would also act as an air "damper or capacitor" to stop your boost from bouncing around like it does.
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
I really need to replicate this build. You're my guinea pig.
I think I'd rather grenade a predator or Honda clone for testing however.
Blowing up a good flathead Briggs would hurt some...
You would have a big problem getting a pulley on the flywheel side as 212’s use starter cup. You can’t run it off the crank side as it would be running the pump in reverse.

If you managed to get a pulley on the flywheel side you would most likely loose the pullstart system all together. The intake would be different.

You need a briggs with the I/C starter cup and copy what I’ve done or you have A LOT of reworking to do.
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
Didn't I read that you observed your intake pipe was warm or hot at the intake port? If that black steel pipe was hot, it was either compressed air heat or blower friction heat. Either way, an intercooler would cool it down. An intercooler would also act as an air "damper or capacitor" to stop your boost from bouncing around like it does.
After making a longer trip over I did notice the intake tube was a bit warm. But nothing worrying I would like a small metal intercooler just for the look but I’m not sure where it would fit.
 
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