This is why big bores help port flow...

65ShelbyClone

Well-Known Member
#1
Shrouding in the chamber is only half of the problem with inline-valve engines like these running large valves and lift. (Seasoned gearheads will already know this) Poke the valve out past the chamber and it runs right next to the cylinder wall. I was inspired to take a picture after seeing some that MDB showed a while back.

This is a fairly extreme example with a 64mm bore, 28.6mm intake, and stock exhaust. A 32mm valve won't come close to fitting without hitting the block. Boring out to the stock GX160/200 size of 68mm would help significantly. Going all the way to 76mm(3.00") would be better still.



This is why canted-valve heads are preferred in most forms of racing that allow them. The valves are angled so that they open toward the bore center and away from the cylinder wall. This also provides for using larger valves than would otherwise be practical with an inline head. Offset guides are another old trick for running bigger valves when bore size is a limiting factor.

Food for thought.
 

65ShelbyClone

Well-Known Member
#3
Thanks. :smile: Yeah, it's one of the projects, a GX140 and the original ZE1 head that has been milled 0.065" IIRC. There is really not much room in the take port to go exploring with a grinder. I am going to try installing a 32mm intake valve anyway, but first I'm going to see if it will handle being ported to match the current intake valve. I haven't done that yet.

Something interesting about that head is that the sparkplug hole is too deep. There are about two full threads that are exposed when the plug is seated. This is a familiar BP5E-S:

 
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minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#4
With the smaller gx140 head you won't be able to port it enough to take advantage of that 32mm intake valve. A better choice would be going smaller, like a 28.5mm intake. You can open the seat I.D. up to 26.5mm at most, but 26mm is good. And have it 26mm all the way through the port.
 

65ShelbyClone

Well-Known Member
#5
I was actually thinking about going with a GX200 head. It looks like the block has room for a 68mm bore or larger. The cylinder walls must be at least 5/16" thick. :blink:
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#6
Gonna have some really good pictures for you in maybe a week. I'm rebuilding my "ProMod" motor. This time it will have a small deck extension, and a modified Matt Sachs billet head on it. Gotta get the head flow tested first once it's done. Trying to get at least a 15% improvment in flow at .450" lift.
 

65ShelbyClone

Well-Known Member
#7
I look forward to it. :thumbsup:

I whittled on the 140 head a bit yesterday. Got the throat opened up quite a bit and started blending epoxy in the bowl. I still need to knock down some of the guide and straighten the port out more. There is a lot of material left on the pushrod side, but I'm up against the oil hole on the other. I may just go ahead and break through to see how much room is there and sleeve or plug the oil hole later.
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#8
I look forward to it. :thumbsup:

I whittled on the 140 head a bit yesterday. Got the throat opened up quite a bit and started blending epoxy in the bowl. I still need to knock down some of the guide and straighten the port out more. There is a lot of material left on the pushrod side, but I'm up against the oil hole on the other. I may just go ahead and break through to see how much room is there and sleeve or plug the oil hole later.
Yeah I machine a valve guide and press fit it into that oil hole. Or stick a allen head screw through it and cut the head off with epoxy while threading it in. Depending if I want to use the oil hole or not.
 
#9
I'm going to snap a picture of a Petter PH1 head tonigh if I get the chance.

Its not a race head but its a two piece liquid cooled iron head with forced lube to the rocker shaft.


Someone maybe have a look at that and pass the idea along to the head guys where ever they be. Maybe we could get a kit head 2 piece with a Billet combustion chamber and a upper ports/rocker box bolt on to save money
 
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