Tote GOTE front fork

#3
Thanks for the diagram and the info. Will give it a try tomorrow and if I have no problem then I will do it to my 680...thanks again for the quick response. Dennis.
 
#4
Richard, where might I find the bearings & spacers (4845/4846) shown in the diagram. I have been unable to locate a cross reference showing the old numbers.

thanks
 
#7
You're right Davis, but forks can be swapped. The diagram shows the needle bearing type although it was supposed to be for the Timken set. I guess they never updated the parts diagrams.
 
#9
I just noticed there seems to be a upper 13" inch long spring (Pt#15 on diagram) that sits above the collar and then a shorter spring (Pt#18) that sits between the collar and the fork tube to help return the fork leg I guess. I don't seem to remember seeing this spring when I disassembled my forks?? Is there supposed to be 2 different spring in the forks? I can't recall ever seeing this upper/lower spring setup on any Gote other than the one in the diagram.

Here is a video of a guy rebuilding his front forks because one of his springs was in two pieces. He was able to buy new front fork springs which he describes in another video as being Associated Spring-Raymond part no: CV1000-5000-100.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtFZPytPUdU

He describes how he had to modify the fork legs a bit to get the springs to work with the fork legs and collar, which I would try to avoid doing but at least there are new off the shelf springs out there which will work if need be.


Also, what is the easiest way to remove the pressed in needle bearings in the rims of my Tote Gote 670?
 
#10
The shorter 1 1/2" spring was the rebound spring. It kept the bushings from 'topping-out' when when the wheel left the ground. It should be on all tote gotes with front suspension. A bushing driver is the proper tool to install the outer race of the timken bearing, but anything round and close to the inside diameter of the hub can be used to drive them in. Make sure to drive them in straight.
 
#11
The shorter 1 1/2" spring was the rebound spring. It kept the bushings from 'topping-out' when when the wheel left the ground. It should be on all tote gotes with front suspension. A bushing driver is the proper tool to install the outer race of the timken bearing, but anything round and close to the inside diameter of the hub can be used to drive them in. Make sure to drive them in straight.
Hi, I know this is a pretty old thread but I wanted to update it with some info I found out about the fork springs. The 670 (and likely the nearly identical 675) did not seem to come with the shorter "rebound" springs in the front forks that say the 680, 681, 780, and 781 came with. That explains my confusion as to why my 670 did not have the shorter springs in the fork assembly when I took the front forks apart. That also means I don't have to spend 5 hours scouring a McMaster-Carr catalog for the correct springs. :thumbsup:

I noticed this when looking at Arnims' parts pages on his site:
Arnim's Tote Gote Parts Site
and
Tparts2

The page A with the 670 does not show the lower spring, but page B for the other models does.
 
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#12
Got my fork shock assemblies apart and have researched the springs I need to replace...CV10005000100, Seems you can only order a minimum of 5.
Anybody got a spare pair?
 

tomc

Active Member
#13
I'd love to see a video of fork restoration on a Gote. That's one thing I'll eventually be doing on my 1967 model 680.
 
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