Im doing the "free lawnmower engine" conversion (slot the crank and cam bearing supports for top feed, and fill the original grooves) and governor delete. Are the side covers the same bolt pattern (ie. gasket) from vertical shaft lawnmower to horizontal shaft tiller type motor? Reason I need a real horizontal shaft side cover is that it has the 4 bolt bosses for a Comet torque converter. This is a really nice B&S 6.5 off a Craftsman (Quantum series?) self propelled push mower and it runs great, starts on 2nd pull almost every time.The deck of the mower rusted out and it was gonna get kicked to the curb before I saved it. V shaft side cover only has 3 mounting bolts and a weird oil filler that Ill have to mod
vertical shaft 6.5 to minibike use
- Thread starter pishta
- Start date
Pics ....dig that plastic lobe camshaft!!! The bearing supports in the V-shaft side cover need to be modded: notched on top so slung oil can settle in them to lube the journals and the old ones filled with JB so oil doesn't drain out when motor is mounted on its "side" now. Also you need to add a spoon shaped oil slinger off the rod bolt to sling oil vertically Ala H-shaft motors and of course clock the carb and mod any case vent holes for horizontal operation.
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Welcome to oldminibikes.com.
Do you have 2 profiles?
Do you have 2 profiles?
What do you plan to do with it after you have spent all summer and hundreds of dollars converting it into a used Frankenstein?
Have you ever tried to run a vertical shaft push mower engine without the blade on it? Do some research on that one. Better yet, put it back on there and see if it still starts on the second. pull without the blade installed.
Now, add the hassle of finding a torque converter for that 7/8 WOODRUFF key crank.
Have you ever tried to run a vertical shaft push mower engine without the blade on it? Do some research on that one. Better yet, put it back on there and see if it still starts on the second. pull without the blade installed.
Now, add the hassle of finding a torque converter for that 7/8 WOODRUFF key crank.
If your dead set on using that engine possibly only for academic reasons improving your engineering skills try mount it as close under the seat tube as possible far forward, in its intended designed orientation, and use a bottom shaft pulley twisted v-belt configuration to a rear high mounted jackshaft and then chain down to rear wheel sprocket. It would be higher centered gravity on the kickstand keep in mind. Its do-able just kinda the long way round. I commend you for trying the difficult and tedious however. I know vertical shaft engines are more easily sourced. Good luck.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TD3M7H...p_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM
Here's a 5 speed transmission with reverse for a vertical shaft engine to a chain drive rear wheel or axle.
Either way, you still need a flywheel.
Here's a 5 speed transmission with reverse for a vertical shaft engine to a chain drive rear wheel or axle.
Either way, you still need a flywheel.
FYI. I did all the mods I needed in 30 minutes (governor delete, cutting a new oil path and filling the old ones on 2 journals) and making a flinger bolted to the rod cap. 7/8 WOODRUFF key crank? I don't know where you got that info. This is a 1" threaded bolt shaft that a Comet TAV2 30-75 has a part number for. Flywheel is gonna be an issue as well as possible balance with my little stamped dipper on the rod end but I'm not sure a Predator with its back facing cylinder will clear the swing arm spring on a Challenger frame? I emailed a guy that has 4 H-shaft motors on Craigs but he has not gotten back with me. Ill be happy to get a proper H-shaft if one drops in my lap, otherwise Im going to try and see if this one will work. And why dont I just rebuild the mower? Because I already have a newer one.
Oh, sorry. Trying to be helpful. I see two woodruff key slots cut in the shaft in your picture. That Comet part will have a tooth inside the sleeve that will need a straight slot cut into the crank so it can slide onto it.
Seriously, Sir, have fun with it. That is why we are here. It's a hobby.
EDIT: My apologies about that crankshaft. I did not see the keyway cut on the bottom of the picture.
Seriously, Sir, have fun with it. That is why we are here. It's a hobby.
EDIT: My apologies about that crankshaft. I did not see the keyway cut on the bottom of the picture.
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pishta; I commend you for thinking outside the box. As sparkwizard advised you, the crankshaft has to have a straight slot starting at the end of the shaft. It looks like your crank has one facing downward in your photo. In addition to the torque converter that you mention above, e-bay has them for $59. Search; Torque Converter Kit 1 in. Bore.
Why do you say, "flywheel is going to be an issue"?
Why do you say, "flywheel is going to be an issue"?
I only said the existing flywheel will be an issue because Sparkwizard mentioned that I no longer have a blade that is in effect a flywheel mass for a lawnmower in itself. I understand the flywheel or lack of the mass of one as my 3.5HP edger probably doesnt have a substantial one as it almost dislocate your shoulder when you pull start it, a very jerky procedure and it seems to bog pretty easily in tough grass. F it, its free and I got 30 minutes of mods into it. If it works, great. If it doesnt, It ends up parted out here or elsewhere.
It really isn't worth the effort or time. I can see this as a temporary fix on a farm or isolated place where a new one or parts would take too long to wait for.
I see your in SoCal too. Finding a horizontal for cheap or free is possible if you spend some time searching.
You have any pictures of your Powell you can share?
I see your in SoCal too. Finding a horizontal for cheap or free is possible if you spend some time searching.
You have any pictures of your Powell you can share?
There is no oil dipper in this V shaft motor, it is on its side and the side cover was the sump. I think it just moved oil by the the governor gear as it seemed to have 4 fingers on an otherwise round gear that was partially submerged in the oil sump. When you attach a small curved piece of sheet metal to the rod cap, it dips down into the oil and really flings it up into the valve area as a clear valve spring cover window proved on a conversion video. So this part hangs off the camshaft end and sits in the horizontal oil sump and just flings oil everywhere. The governor lever hits that nubbin on the bottom that runs in and out when the weights seperate. Pretty cool the way these motors do this
That is interesting. In want a V shaft engine for a hovercraft. I may have to start looking at mowers.
I hope you have fun with it. Please do not think I was being negative or suggesting that it can't be done. It could be a fun side project.
With used flathead compressors and leaf shredders abundant and cheap, I just don't see this on a mini bike. You can find a nice Flathead on Ebay for a couple hundred.
I hope you have fun with it. Please do not think I was being negative or suggesting that it can't be done. It could be a fun side project.
With used flathead compressors and leaf shredders abundant and cheap, I just don't see this on a mini bike. You can find a nice Flathead on Ebay for a couple hundred.
