Hello there I hope your all feeling fine out there!! I know this is a 1972 scat cat sc 415. And I don’t have the recoil cover so Iam not sure what model this tecumseh is maybe a Hs 50 but I know not all hs50 have the same cover from what I see on eBay. So Iam hopeing some one out there has one that I can hook up with to ask them questions about this. i do have the original ad it came with a 5hp on it. it has a mag with small electric startor so i dont know if a regurlar fly wheel works on it or not. and did it have a voltage regulator on it or does it just run off the stator? Did find the original head light for it this week with key which I can’t believe it was out there. wish i had a manuel on it but cant find any thing on it yet. any one with info would be appreciated. thanks and stay healthy!!!! joe
What engine model is on this?
- Thread starter Joesperfectstorm
- Start date
It is an HS50 the easy "tell" is the intake. The engine is 1973-74 version due to the way the block is configured (which does mesh with the scat cat pretty good). those used the Later 70's thicker/heavier flywheels, HS50 actually had an aluminum version for the first 2 years but it got superseded to the steel flywheel with plastic fins just like the HS40 got when it changed to square shroud in 1974/75. Far as locating a lighted flywheel for that era....Its tough to do. And the spacers that are glued to the magnets on the steel 1974-1980 flywheels commonly come loose so you have to watch that they are all there if buying used, and a good idea make sure they are secured (re glue if necessary) before being put back into service.
Here is an example and why that 1975 Rupp I bought long time back had an engine that was "locked up"....wasn't the engine it was the loose spacers causing a bind.
It is important to note that you cannot use a lighted stator plate/magneto with a non lighted flywheel and vice versa. they are physically different sizes so they cannot be mixed as it will bind or will have way too much airgap and not fire the plug depending on which way you go/try. So in your senario you will need a lighted flywheel or change the stator out to a standard unit and standard flywheel if you can live without lights.
Good luck with it.
Here is an example and why that 1975 Rupp I bought long time back had an engine that was "locked up"....wasn't the engine it was the loose spacers causing a bind.
It is important to note that you cannot use a lighted stator plate/magneto with a non lighted flywheel and vice versa. they are physically different sizes so they cannot be mixed as it will bind or will have way too much airgap and not fire the plug depending on which way you go/try. So in your senario you will need a lighted flywheel or change the stator out to a standard unit and standard flywheel if you can live without lights.
Good luck with it.
It is an HS50 the easy "tell" is the intake. The engine is 1973-74 version due to the way the block is configured (which does mesh with the scat cat pretty good). those used the Later 70's thicker/heavier flywheels, HS50 actually had an aluminum version for the first 2 years but it got superseded to the steel flywheel with plastic fins just like the HS40 got when it changed to square shroud in 1974/75. Far as locating a lighted flywheel for that era....Its tough to do. And the spacers that are glued to the magnets on the steel 1974-1980 flywheels commonly come loose so you have to watch that they are all there if buying used, and a good idea make sure they are secured (re glue if necessary) before being put back into service.
Here is an example and why that 1975 Rupp I bought long time back had an engine that was "locked up"....wasn't the engine it was the loose spacers causing a bind.
It is important to note that you cannot use a lighted stator plate/magneto with a non lighted flywheel and vice versa. they are physically different sizes so they cannot be mixed as it will bind or will have way too much airgap and not fire the plug depending on which way you go/try. So in your senario you will need a lighted flywheel or change the stator out to a standard unit and standard flywheel if you can live without lights.
Good luck with it.
Here is an example and why that 1975 Rupp I bought long time back had an engine that was "locked up"....wasn't the engine it was the loose spacers causing a bind.
It is important to note that you cannot use a lighted stator plate/magneto with a non lighted flywheel and vice versa. they are physically different sizes so they cannot be mixed as it will bind or will have way too much airgap and not fire the plug depending on which way you go/try. So in your senario you will need a lighted flywheel or change the stator out to a standard unit and standard flywheel if you can live without lights.
Good luck with it.
