What parts to get for governor removal?

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#23
LOL....entertaining.

I've never taken apart one of these motors either, but the question has been asked so many times, I bet I could do it from memory. I'd probably build it, and JB Weld the entire engine to stiffen it up though.
Dear H Dave
Like you, I LOVE JB Weld! It is like a magical elixir, sent from the heavens, that can fix anything that duct tape cannot! (Trinik, please do not confuse duct tape with "duck" tape, Very different uses for both!) I like to pack the fins around the cylinder with JB Weld as the fins seem to be the weakest part of the clone engines. Talk about a rigid cylinder (not to be confused with Triniks fantasy strip club)

...gotta go, lost my hammer and cannot afford to lose 33.33333% of my tools!
 
#24
I like to pack the fins around the cylinder with JB Weld as the fins seem to be the weakest part of the clone engines. Talk about a rigid cylinder (not to be confused with Triniks fantasy strip club)
Don't use it all, because it works well in the exhaust ports if you're building massive power for those sweet drag races.

Trinik could use some as well, as the top of jug to correct any "in the hole" discrepancies. If it holds up to exhaust gases, you know it'll hold up a torqued head. (Hemi is better?)

We use duck tape to hold the turkey legs together. I think we'll try it next for Christmas' Cornish Game Hens, but maybe in narrower strips.
 
#26
Are you sure Trinik? Did you measure this when it was 72* F ? The aluminum rods shrink and expand due to heat. You are telling me with absolute certainty, down to the thousandth of an inch, that this is the correct measurement? If that is in fact the right measurement, what size gasket does it take, per the OP's original question?

here is that question

And what am I suppose to do when I take apart the engine? What does in the hole mean? And if I got a longer rod wouldn't I need a bigger gasket.
I don't know why you have to be rude I just want to build a minibike for Christmas and was confused so I thought I could just ask a person with experience for help.
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#27
My apologies
Not trying to be rude, just realistic! I can tell by the nature if your questions that you have limited experience with any engine. Rather than have you make a mess, I suggested you look ar some videos and get educated on the terms. When you shit ne dow, I figured you had a clue. Your additional questions confirmed my suspicions
Good luck with your build! Post up a pic of what you are working on. Someone else here can help you I'm sure
 
#28
My apologies
Not trying to be rude, just realistic! I can tell by the nature if your questions that you have limited experience with any engine. Rather than have you make a mess, I suggested you look ar some videos and get educated on the terms. When you shit ne dow, I figured you had a clue. Your additional questions confirmed my suspicions
Good luck with your build! Post up a pic of what you are working on. Someone else here can help you I'm sure
You are correct I don't really have experience that is why I am here I am trying to learn and find out what I need before I start my build.
 
#29
I want to get a different cam. On OldMiniBikes would the f-275 Grind, welded lobe be to much for 18 lb springs and stock valve train. Would it be better to stick with the mod 2 grind cam?
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#31
Depends on where you want your power to be at, low down or top end?
X2!

common mistake when ordering a cam is that most people thing that the biggest is the best. What you need to do is match all your parts. A big cam with low compression will be a dog. A big cam and big carb with low compression will be a big disappointment! Unless you are under 90lbs, you need the low end to get you moving. You can also do that through gearing, but then to get up to speed you will have to scream the engine all the time. I bought the Dyno CS1 cam and I am happy with it. It was cheap and gets my 250lbs rolling.
Example. Put 3.73 gears in my '69 Camaro. Could chirp the tires when shifting from 1-2, and 2-3. Outta the hole it was a monster! Unfortunately, to keep up with traffic in SoCal I was turning 3800RPM's to go 75MPH. The 4 speed trans has my now at 2600RPM at 80MPH! Now I can hear the stereo!
Define your goals, let us know what bike this is going on, and set a budget.
 
#34
X2!

common mistake when ordering a cam is that most people thing that the biggest is the best. What you need to do is match all your parts. A big cam with low compression will be a dog. A big cam and big carb with low compression will be a big disappointment! Unless you are under 90lbs, you need the low end to get you moving. You can also do that through gearing, but then to get up to speed you will have to scream the engine all the time. I bought the Dyno CS1 cam and I am happy with it. It was cheap and gets my 250lbs rolling.
Example. Put 3.73 gears in my '69 Camaro. Could chirp the tires when shifting from 1-2, and 2-3. Outta the hole it was a monster! Unfortunately, to keep up with traffic in SoCal I was turning 3800RPM's to go 75MPH. The 4 speed trans has my now at 2600RPM at 80MPH! Now I can hear the stereo!
Define your goals, let us know what bike this is going on, and set a budget.
Thank you for the info I was wanting to spend under 100 on a cam and it is going on my original db30. The gearing already gets me off on a quick start (it will pop wheelies with a stock predator) so would it be better to get a mid range can?
 
#35
Isky mamba Jr is a good all around cam . 26# springs I stay away from the 18# due to coil bind . the gearing is what has you poping wheelies stock gearing is very tall on the stock db a sprocket adapter and splits would allow you to mess with that .but carplaylb is right you should really plan out what you want to accomplish with your motor before ordering anything . money might be better spent on a rod and flywheel . put some 1.3 ratio rockers in and better springs and forget the cam . really depends what you are trying to do
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#36
Thank you for the info I was wanting to spend under 100 on a cam and it is going on my original db30. The gearing already gets me off on a quick start (it will pop wheelies with a stock predator) so would it be better to get a mid range can?
My thoughts are, never go faster than your brakes can stop you! You will have more fun with a low-mid range cam than you will with a high RPM screamer! Everything is a sacrifice. The high RPM cams have limited low end power. Go more conservative and you will be happier! It will be easier on your clutch too!
Going fast is like wiping your ass with a wagon wheel, it never ends! A new cam means, a carb re-jet, which means a header, which means a billet rod and flywheel, which means ya gotta have better brakes, and on...and on!
 
#37
Isky mamba Jr is a good all around cam . 26# springs I stay away from the 18# due to coil bind . the gearing is what has you poping wheelies stock gearing is very tall on the stock db a sprocket adapter and splits would allow you to mess with that .but carplaylb is right you should really plan out what you want to accomplish with your motor before ordering anything . money might be better spent on a rod and flywheel . put some 1.3 ratio rockers in and better springs and forget the cam . really depends what you are trying to do
That's what I said I am already getting the flywheel and rod and am picking out what I want before I buy it. Some one else said it would be better to stick with 18 lb because there would be less wear but if I get better rockers would it be fine two get 26lb
 
#40
Thank you for the info I was wanting to spend under 100 on a cam and it is going on my original db30. The gearing already gets me off on a quick start (it will pop wheelies with a stock predator) so would it be better to get a mid range can?
If you're wanting a cheaper cam and a mild build then I would recommend a 265 cam with 1.2 rockers. 18lb or 22lb springs, not sure if the 18 will hit coil bind. Either way this is a great combo for an engine with a stock carb and stock valves. Pretty decent power all around and won't break the bank.
 
Top