wiring diagram with only half the wires and a screwdriver key

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#1
No keys and no crank no start.. The wiring diagram shows a two wire ignition switch and my ignition switch has four wires. I could not work it out in my head that white was the switch power wire as it ran from ignition switch to the relay but didn’t grab power for the switch anywhere.. Stuck the tumbler in a vice and broke all the pins with a flathead and it worked! I backfed 12v power into the white wire to power the switch turned the screwdriver to on AND finally! 12v power to the brown wire. Turn it off and no power to the brown wire. So the ignition works as the factory intend. Now that I have power and a working switch the brown wire gets 12v power and runs to the neutral light. It also grounds the two brown wires off the lights together to send power to the starter button. It all made sense when I twisted the ignition switch with a screwdriver and then found 12v on the brown wire. FDF85812-B1B6-4FB3-AE04-63CFDF8D87EE.jpeg 1B7E7B0B-DFB0-4307-8624-EFB15AD39271.jpeg 26FCD87E-68DE-4EA0-B5EB-E14B22711861.jpeg F4027299-8C97-4E47-872C-D022A7C0E18F.jpeg
 
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Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#2
I guess I should have pointed out that I also had the wrong diagram... This one shows the relay powering the switch... And pulling power from nowhere else.. This is a 300 4x4 wiring diagram that was telling me the white wire should have 12v but my white wire had no connecter at the relay because that’s not how the 185 works the 185 pulls power directly from the + battery terminal! So that’s what confused me. I back fed power and got the ignition switch working just with common sense before I even found the right wiring diagram. Then I found the diagram that only shows a two wire switch and I already had the switch working. Now I can trace the brown wire. 399C0656-C897-4A6A-BBF5-900F5DD5DF4F.png 399C0656-C897-4A6A-BBF5-900F5DD5DF4F.png
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#3
The cdi has terrible corrosion on it. iso and a toothbrush brought it back to working order. also the valve gap specs were way off.. 5257CFD6-40FD-44A7-9BA9-3A7757E2594F.jpeg 4C802680-9476-40FB-836A-7101637CFAE3.png
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#4
This thing just wants to live. Pumped the back tires up and pulled the side case got the shifter working what a relief! Now it shifts through all gears like it should and I have verified it’s in neutral I can pop a carburetor onto it and really see what happens.
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
#5
I have cut 25 wires off of this quad. Only needed to run wires remain there is nine of them. Set the valves and peeled all the junk off of it. Fuel pump all the clips and handle bar crap. It will start in any gear no reverse/neutral switch but the engines final diagnosis is 150psi of compression means it’s healthy. I have to hook up the throttle cable to the handlebars and hook up the gravity feed tank. Then I can go for a spin around the yard. This quad is two years only 86-88 so the cdi‘s are unicorns and expensive. Well above the $150 range so I’m happy this one works after a cleaning. If the cdi was bad this quad was most definitely headed to a scrap yard.
 
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