Give the complete description what is the length and was it split? Does it have a lip. Looking for a description that you could make the part from. Do you know the actual thickness, guessing 1/16 correct?
so after fixing the broken starter which you say broke from compression was it still hard to pull? You said you checked the .003 lash and it was OK so you did not adjust anything but now it pulls over ok but no start is that a correct statement?
Although I was going to replace all the fork legs and outer tubes, I still had to get the inner legs out to see where the springs and bushes went. I also used a hydraulic jack but those dam things fought me all the way
On my e model there were little wire retaining rings that were a pain to get apart then the innards pull out. Mine were all rusted in and it was difficult to get it apart. I wound up replacing all of it except the inner springs. Made new inner legs and outer legs and made larger bronze bushes.
I took it apart and soaked the laminations in evaporust and it came out like new. Hard part was getting off the coil retainers. I got a new crankshaft from Jacks years ago that i used.
air is a insulator more compression requires more voltage for the same gap. Closing the gap is just a diagnostic test to try to figure out why your test is failing.
The small valve is on the exhaust side, intake valve is the same. Dont overthink this, if you have spark fuel and compression and its timed right and mixture is correct you get boom. One of the three components is missing.
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