6" Wheels for Mini Bike - QUALITY where are they!

J

Joemt

New Member
#1
#1
I've been trying for months to get a mini bike put together for my grandsons from out of state. They are now here and I still can't get a rear wheel with a hub and sprocket that doesn't wobble all over the place.

I've tried 2 Azusa Steel wheels with hubs - both POS.....

My experience has been many parts are of poor build from OldMiniBikes. Theirservice has been trying to help.....but everything is slow as hell. I'm tired of returning wheels.

I'm buying a whole mini bike today locally because I can no longer get this up and running on time for my grandsons, started in May. The mini bike in question was ridden by my daughter (their mother) when she was little. I stored it over the years hoping to see my grandkids ride it also.

Where can I buy or what can I buy to get the mini bike up and running down the road. I need a set of wheels for 6" 410 x 350 tires....I want a 72 tooth sprocket.

Any ideas? Thank you for your help and experience.

Joe
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#2
#2
My first question is "what kind of bike is it?" It used to run and ride, so what happened to the wheels that you'd be replacing them with Azusa wheels?

Anyway:

You can try "enginepowered" Cat wheels on Ebay.

I am doing a special project and still working on the rear wheels, but they are NOS, two piece, and require a rear clearance of about 8 inches if you are using the brake and hub. He also has some that use a sprocket only, so you'd have to use a band brake on a clutch, or jack shaft, etc.

On his front wheels, he sells a piece that uses a machined aluminum center section, then two of the Cat wheel halves sandwich it. Very nice piece. Doesn't wobble.

It's been my experience that I have had to "hand machine" most mini bike wheels to get them to run true.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-M...m=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313&LH_TitleDesc=0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MINIBIKE-G...ed-BEARINGS-/372361821998?hash=item56b27e7f2e
 
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Doc1976

Doc1976

Active Member
#3
#3
I have the same issues with these parts, the attention to detail is just not there. I have the same problem with other parts distributors too not just OldMiniBikes warehouse. It seems that azusa is the one dropping the ball with quality. There are countless threads here on the subject. I just used the 6" steel wheel/hub assemblies on a project and once again had to shim the wheels and the sprockets to run true. I stock up on .005, .010, and .020 3/8 ID arbor shims for this reason. I think unfortunately it is just the way it is with this hobby. almost every part needs to be "massaged" to get it to work. That's just how it goes with universal fit parts, although I agree that more effort for quality could be put into manufacturing.
 
J

Joemt

New Member
#4
#4
Wheels and bad mini bike parts

I went to a slightly larger tire. About the time my kids were done with it..I had a sprocket welded on (like the original....) Welder warped it or it's simply not straignt (original was right on.) and it wobbled.

I still have the front tire (whole and functional) and rear tire. maybe I ought to buy a steel sprocket and weld it on straight.


Thank you for the info....
 
Doc1976

Doc1976

Active Member
#7
#7
Joemt said:
Explain how you use those shims? I'm curious as I've never used one. Thank you
Click to expand...
I use these arbor shims

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/7041804?term=arbor+shims

I put the shims between the wheel flange on the hub and the wheel halves, as well as between the sprocket and sprocket mounting flange.
First, I mount the hub with bearings installed onto a piece of all thread with nuts and washers vertically in my vice. Then using a dial indicator, I measure the lateral run out of the wheel mounting flange and sprocket flange. using these measurements, I shim accordingly to eliminate the run out. Then once that has been fixed, I use the same fixture to measure radial run out of the wheel once it is installed on the hub. With the bolts just over finger tight, I can tap on the wheel to slightly move it while rotating it to eliminate the run out there ( may need to enlarge the mounting holes in the hub slightly to get enough movement. But only drill the hub so that the bolts fit the wheel halves snug)

As I side note, I like to mark the hub on the outer edge with a number stamp as to the amount of shim I used at each wheel bolt. This aids future owners or myself as to the location of each shim for reassembly. Also, before taking measurements, I will remove any excess paint and metal that may have rolled up around the mounting holes during manufacturing ( I have had more than .060 powder coat around mounting holes before that was causing a lot of the wobble)

this is the wheel/hub setup I am talking about
 
owend

owend

#8
#8
I agree, the sprockets never runs true. I have had to beat them into shape with a dead plow hammer to make them work. I have also had to press them flat in a press at my job. No luck with their drum brake/sprocket combo, can't seem to get them to keep the chain on either.
 
manchester1

manchester1

#10
#10
Unfortunately that Azusa stuff is all we have. You may want to try buying a old set of mini bike wheels. The old stuff runs nice and true. What kind of mini bike do you have?
 
H

Havasu Dave

Moderator
#11
#11
manchester1 said:
Unfortunately that Azusa stuff is all we have. You may want to try buying a old set of mini bike wheels. The old stuff runs nice and true. What kind of mini bike do you have?
Click to expand...
Same comment and question I had and asked three days ago. There is now a conversation about shims and welded sprockets. :shrug:
 
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