'67 Taco 44 Swing Arm Repair???

#1
’67 Taco 44. What can/should I do regarding these swing arms?
The questions I have are:
1. The axel bolt slot is not parallel. Should it be? Should I heat it up and try to bend the opening parallel?
2. Has anyone made some sort of bushing or is the bolts without anything sufficient?
3. Should there be a brass washer or something between the frame flange and swing arm?
4. The bolts and nuts are thrashed. Is there a recommendation for replacement?
5. One bolt hole, see pic, is worn into a dish configuration. What can/should I do about that?
6. Any other suggestions/recommendations are appreciated.
Thank You. This is the start. Next is the jack shaft and then forks.
 
#2
’67 Taco 44. What can/should I do regarding these swing arms?
The questions I have are:
1. The axel bolt slot is not parallel. Should it be? YesShould I heat it up and try to bend the opening parallel?Yes
2. Has anyone made some sort of bushing or is the bolts without anything sufficient?Look on ebay for some axle adjusters. I want to say they're for Honda
3. Should there be a brass washer or something between the frame flange and swing arm?Yes, I installed bronze washer between the frame and swing arm.
4. The bolts and nuts are thrashed. Is there a recommendation for replacement?Grade 8 shouldered, with lock nuts from any hardware store
5. One bolt hole, see pic, is worn into a dish configuration. What can/should I do about that?Build up with weld and re-machine. Maybe center a copper pipe and weld around it
6. Any other suggestions/recommendations are appreciated.
Thank You. This is the start. Next is the jack shaft and then forks.
My two cents worth based on dealing with a Taco 99 swing arm. Same animal. Sometimes they show up on ebay, or you could make some. Contact Evil Ed and he's probably got some great tips on this Tom.
 
#4
Here is a option but not for the purest Taco guys. I have a Taco 44 and I made my replacement arms, I left mine close on the back side of the arms so you can't slide the rear wheel in like the original arms, because mine where bent also like yours. I did slot it so I have adjustment for the chain. Mine are longer then stock for the bigger wheels.



 
#5
I left mine close on the back side of the arms so you can't slide the rear wheel in like the original arms, because mine where bent also like yours. I did slot it so I have adjustment for the chain. Mine are longer then stock for the bigger wheels.
:thumbsup: That's the way they should have done it originally. That whole rear swing arm just seems flimsy to me. From what I gather, the plate design was an upgrade from an earlier tube-type that was too weak.

Perhaps Tom could bend his back (without heat probably) then weld in some metal to close it up.
 
#6
:thumbsup: That's the way they should have done it originally. That whole rear swing arm just seems flimsy to me. From what I gather, the plate design was an upgrade from an earlier tube-type that was too weak.

Perhaps Tom could bend his back (without heat probably) then weld in some metal to close it up.
If this is a restoration, I would just bend them back. But just bending them back won't keep it from happening again. As far as the dished hole, weld it shut and redrill/grind smooth. Or send the dimensions to LSC and have him get them cut out of new plate with open or closed ends.

I seem to remember someone else here able to do that too.
 
#7
Yes, closed ends would prevent the spread from happening again. Would the Honda axel adjusters do the same thing. The option of having new ones made and saving the original ones for a possible purest future restoration, might make sense. Any suggestions on a fabricator that could make them for a reasonable price? I have a mig welder, but not a percision machine shop. I guess I could try and make a close, but not exact set. Just thinking out loud?????
 
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