A-cat battery module

J

JimN

#23
#23
Minimichael said:
Tried working with an unreinvented switch like this one, but I don't like how much tension is required to actuate it.
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If I was doing it that way. I would want one that closes the contacts when you release pressure on the plunger. That way you can adjust it to close the contacts at the slightest pressure release and it would not matter how far the arm moves away from the plunger.
 
N

nblakeh

#24
#24
If you are using hand brake levers for the front and rear brakes, there are Honda 7/8" CB CA lever assemblies that have a switch built into both sides. I just ordered a pair on eBay and the item number is: 175333490575. I am not sure of the contact configuration whether they are normally open or normally closed. I will let you know when I receive them. Also they are not adjustable, so I will see if I can tap them for adjusters.
 
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Minimichael

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#25
#25
nblakeh said:
If you are using hand brake levers for the front and rear brakes, there are Honda 7/8" CB CA lever assemblies that have a switch built into both sides. I just ordered a pair on eBay and the item number is: 175333490575. I am not sure of the contact configuration whether they are normally open or normally closed. I will let you know when I receive them. Also they are not adjustable, so I will see if I can tap them for adjusters.
Click to expand...
I thought about doing a switch at the hand lever, but it would require even more wires running to the handlebar. The drum lever is much closer, and just below the light and battery source.
 
Minimichael

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#26
#26
So here's my reinvented brake lever switch – and pics of it coming together. The hidden contact areas are more or less water resistant. Multiple heat shrink tubes and other sleeves give it some strength. The loop that is the business end is about 5 inches long and will zip tie behind the swingarm, with electrical contact made by movement of the brake drum armature. It also operates with very little resistance, and sliding back and forth within the silicone/fiberglass sleeve.
 

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N

nblakeh

#28
#28
Minimichael said:
I thought about doing a switch at the hand lever, but it would require even more wires running to the handlebar. The drum lever is much closer, and just below the light and battery source.
Click to expand...
Minimichael said:
So here's my reinvented brake lever switch – and pics of it coming together. The hidden contact areas are more or less water resistant. Multiple heat shrink tubes and other sleeves give it some strength. The loop that is the business end is about 5 inches long and will zip tie behind the swingarm, with electrical contact made by movement of the brake drum armature. It also operates with very little resistance, and sliding back and forth within the silicone/fiberglass sleeve.
Click to expand...
That makes sense.
 
Minimichael

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#29
#29
Here is a list of the electrical amps and things I hope to use on my mini bike(s), along with the percentage of time I estimate I'll be using them based on my average neighborhood ride.

Taillight (0.04a) 100%
Headlight (3.1 - 4.25a) 50%
Brake (0.19a) 20%
Blinkers (2.0a) 10%
Horn (1.5a) 2%
(The flasher relay and a few led-lighted switches also draw but I haven't measured them yet.)

Anyway, with a somewhat better understanding I'm now doing some amp/watt calculations and finding that my M18 2.0Ah tool battery might last between 4.5 - 6.5 hours!
(...the calc website gives me different results depending on whether I'm calculating with watts versus amps. I dunno ...)

I think 5.5 hrs is just great — but that's without any headlight. Yup. Use of the bike's 3.1A headlight (for just 50% of ride time) shortens total run time to between 1 to 1.5hrs; the range for the 4.25A light gets as low as 45 mins to 1hr10 mins..

These runtimes might be cool for most of my rides, tho 45 mins is getting tight. As it is, I'm limiting headlight use to only 50% ...like for riding home at dusk, since I don't ride around my neighborhood at night :p

So kind of a bummer, but forward-looking options include:

1) Upgrade to cheaper, generic M18 battery packs with 3.0Ah (providing they're not much taller than the Milwaukee brand 2.0ah, cuz space under my seat is limited); and/or

2) Look into lower amp headlight bulbs for at least the 4.25A lamp, or somehow convert these headlights to led to draw down on the current draw I'm currently drawing.
 
Minimichael

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#33
#33
sparkwizard said:
An LED 3157 bulb would give hi/lo and not draw much power. Not a search light, but you aren't going 70 in the dark, anyway.
A separate battery for the headlight would be another solution, and you could remove some wires, maybe.
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Thanks for the tip on the bulb. Yes, these lights are as much for looks than anything else. That, and giving notice to my neighbors. Not for seeing obstacles so much. I'll pull the bulbs and see what bases/prongs I'm working with.
 
Minimichael

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#34
#34
JimN said:
If height is an issue but not length, @Mr. Pink had mentioned temporary paralleling batteries for testing purposes. No reason that couldn't be a permanent solution. Might be more hassle than it's worth, but could be an option.
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Yes, Mr. Pink's suggestion... I've been noodling on that one also. For now, my workaround could be just carry a spare battery in the tool rolls. Maybe even wire that separately to the headlight like Sparkwizard's said.

Also thinking about my old standby 3V coin battery set up as an on-demand emergency backup for just the tail light.
 
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Minimichael

Minimichael

Well-Known Member
#40
#40
sparkwizard said:
View attachment 311757
Note the WATTAGE numbers at lower left corner.
Click to expand...
So just updating here on my electrical doings. I decided to wait on the led conversion plans, and instead just down-watted the hotter bulb (55w) to an inexpensive and less power hungry 35w. This at least brings the two builds to similar benchmarks.

I also realized my math was off on how long a 2 amp hour battery should last - seeing as I calculated for a 12v capacity but didn't consider the batt pack is 18v. Now, my not too quick mental math says I might get 2 or more hours of light-up time so long as I don't burn the headlight for the whole ride. Still thinking I can make it work if I only use the headlamp as needed like around dusk or when overcast. Seems there may be better packs out there than Milwaukee brand, but it's what I have for now. Plus looks like ebay-ers are fitting 4.0 amp hours into the same compact size as my 2.0, so maybe I'll upgrade later to the 4.0Ah Milwaukee clone packs. Also want to get to harbor freight to consider Bauer packs and their size/footprint. They look compact, and sport higher Ah numbers. Could also do 2 packs in parallel like you all pointed out - if necessary...

So now one of two bikes is nearly fully wired and the second bike is currently on the stand. All accessories are operational alone but also while others are in use (eg: taillight, headlight, and horn, simultaneously). I had to upgrade to a 10A regulator, as the other I had in place could only do 3A, which my recent crash education taught me is not enough.

I bought a dpdt toggle switch from Menards to serve as a kill switch for now. I'm going double throw so it can also light up a red indicator when open and ready for starting. Thanks again Mr. Pink. Sometimes common knowledge has to bite me in the ass.
 

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