At what point is the tank just done?

[JohnnyTillotson]

This is the inside of an old tank the day I opened it. It's almost mesmerizing in its digusting, dried vomit-like crud.

So I did the ol' shake with bolts and gas a few times and it looks like this now.

Whats left looks kinda deep no? I'm sure the rust will come out if I keep going but is it just shot?

Is there anything to spray on it out there? Do they make spray steel yet? Haha.

No matter what I'd use a good in line filter.

 

[Havasu Dave]

Caswells. It will fix it.

 

[JohnnyTillotson]

Caswells. It will fix it.

BLess you.

Seems like a slam dunk. Even I could do it!:

All traces of oil and gasoline should first be removed by pouring about 1 pint of acetone or lacquer thinner into the tank, and rotating the tank several times to thoroughly sluice the sides with solvent. Dispose of the contaminated solution.

When recoating your gas tank from failed Kreem or POR-15 tank sealers, remove the old, failed coating using a paint stripper containing Methylene Chloride.

Place a hand full of drywall screws into the tank and shake them around vigorously for several minutes. These will dislodge any loose particles of rust. In the case of Fiberglass and plastic tanks, this will rough up the tank interior, improving adhesion.

Rinse out the tank with about 1-pint of acetone or lacquer thinner, then set aside and allow to dry. Use an airline to blow air into the tank to aid drying.

Apply duct tape or masking tape to any weeping seams, holes or porous areas. This will stop any Gas Tank Sealer from oozing out, and will allow it to bridge over the hole. Plug the outlet ports with putty or Play-Doh. Mix up the required amount of Gas Tank Sealer (one unit should treat two small motorcycle tanks or one large one) If you are only treating ONE small tank, then divide parts A & B in half. You could use a dipstick to gauge this.

In a separate plastic container (margarine tub etc.) mix the two parts together thoroughly for at least 2 minutes. Scrape around the sides to ensure all resin is blended together. BAD MIXING AND BAD MEASURING IS THE #1 CAUSE OF FAILURE!!

Pour into the tank, then immediately seal up the filler hole with Gladwrap and an elastic band. Swill the tank around in every direction for several minutes to obtain a good layer of Gas Tank Sealer over all surfaces. Remove the filler cap,Gladwrap seal, and pour out any excess. Allow to drain upside down for a few minutes.
If you have a built in fuel filter, blow air into the fuel line port for about 10 minutes. This will clear the filter of any Gas Tank Sealer.

Scrape off any excess with a sharp knife at this point (usually about 40-60 Min after mixing) Place the tank in a warm 70-90 f place and allow to cure overnight. In the case of alcohol fuels, allow 3-5 days at room temperature, or 24 hours at 120 deg f

 

[Havasu Dave]

BLess you.

Seems like a slam dunk. Even I could do it!:

LOL, you do more than this. I've used several types of sealer over the years, first on Harley tanks, but finally took other's advice and used this. No brainer! It's basically two part epoxy. I've even thinned it down with acetone once, and another time, rubbing alcohol. It goes further like that, but you don't want to over thin it- just a tad. Tank doesn't need to be prepped near the extent required of the other types out there.

 

[Itype2slo]

Red Kote works good. Probably best not to shake the tank with gas and bolts in it. Evaporust and bolts would be safer.:thumbsup:

 

[b52bombardier1]

Use some boiling hot CLR bathroom cleanser on it. Twenty four hours later, that rust will be gone.

I'm a big believer in the POR 15 treatment but most people leave too much of the urethane liner liquid in at the last step. Too thick of a layer delaminates eventually. The stuff works best in thin layers on raw bare metal after every last drop of water is removed with forced hot air.

Then wait four days for the urethane liner to cure.

Rick

 

[KustomKartKid]

Caswells. It will fix it.

Caswells....endorsed my Evil Ed AND Havasu Dave- how can you go wrong :shrug:

I've used it a half dozen times never failed me yet. That stuff hardens like porcelain.

 

[Havasu Dave]

Caswells....endorsed my Evil Ed AND Havasu Dave- how can you go wrong :shrug:

I've used it a half dozen times never failed me yet. That stuff hardens like porcelain.

Ha! It was Evil Ed and YOU who got me on it. Too bad I didn't take your advice BEFORE dumping the "latex type" into that tank. Failed sealer meant stripping old sealer out of tank, stripping custom urethane metallic copper paint off of tank, and yet another carb rebuild. Never again.

 

[boristheblade]

I'm fond of muriatic acid for rust removal pre-lining. It's worked miracles on the tanks in which rust has gone beyond surface but before pinholing has occurred.

 

[b52bombardier1]

Muriatic acid is a little harsh. You will lose too much good metal. Phosphoric acid is better and will leave a somewhat durable coating of iron phosphate that resists rust.

Rick

 

[Havasu Dave]

Muriatic acid is a little harsh. You will lose too much good metal. Phosphoric acid is better and will leave a somewhat durable coating of iron phosphate that resists rust.

Rick

It sure is a bit harsh, but I keep a six gallon bucket filled with a 3:1 solution of muratic to water. Dip frames, tanks, parts galore. Then I neutralize with soda ash and water, rinse with fresh, wipe, and oil/treat. Never have I had metal thinned or otherwise destroyed thin metal by using it. Sometimes more rust removal than an etch is required.

I'm not trying to sell anything but your statement is contrary to what I've been experiencing the past few years. Repeat, I NEVER use it full strength.

 

[b52bombardier1]

Yes, it was the full strength stuff that I would not use. I'm now a fan of boiling some CLR bathroom cleanser and using it to remove rust. After a few days, the rust is gone.

Rick

 

[JohnnyTillotson]

Last night I filled it up with gas just make sure there were no pin holes and after about 30 seconds it started to sweat gas. Or gas was coming out sort of like It was osmosis through the side of the tank. Very odd thing to see. Like a stain would slowly form and spread out and then kind of sweat the gas out. I guess that part of the tank is very thin now probably from me shaking the crap out of it with bolts and gas so wil this stuff cure that or should I just throw the damn thing away at this point?

 

[capguncowboy]

Last night I filled it up with gas just make sure there were no pin holes and after about 30 seconds it started to sweat gas. Or gas was coming out sort of like It was osmosis through the side of the tank. Very odd thing to see. Like a stain would slowly form and spread out and then kind of sweat the gas out. I guess that part of the tank is very thin now probably from me shaking the crap out of it with bolts and gas so wil this stuff cure that or should I just throw the damn thing away at this point?

Caswells or Red Kote will seal those holes from leaking any more. A few coats of paint will give it a bit of rigidity. I wouldn't toss it, but I wouldn't suggest the rattle process any more

 

[b52bombardier1]

The POR 15 urethane liner is also tough stuff. Your fuel weeps and seeps can be fixed with a good liner.

Rick

 

[Itype2slo]

Did you give it one thick coat?

 

[JohnnyTillotson]

Did you give it one thick coat?

No this is just the stripped tank. No paint at all. I will do what the guys suggest above.

 

[JohnnyTillotson]

Caswells or Red Kote will seal those holes from leaking any more. A few coats of paint will give it a bit of rigidity. I wouldn't toss it, but I wouldn't suggest the rattle process any more

I though everyone did that. One guy on here brings his tank the paint store snd puts it in a can shacker for God sakes. Learn something new every day here.

 

[capguncowboy]

I though everyone did that. One guy on here brings his tank the paint store snd puts it in a can shacker for God sakes. Learn something new every day here.

Sorry, I meant that maybe you shouldn't rattle THAT tank anymore. It really is an effective method of removing rust from a tank, and helps avoid harsh chemicals if that isn't your thing. Since it only really removes the damaged metal, it won't make the tank worse than it already is... unless it's paper thin.

You more than likely got to that tank just in time

 

[Havasu Dave]

I though everyone did that. One guy on here brings his tank the paint store snd puts it in a can shacker for God sakes. Learn something new every day here.

What tank is this anyway?