Blue clone buildup

MDDoodleBeast · Nov 28, 2015

So far I have modified my 6.5hp central machine clone with the following parts:
Governor removed
Header with rlv
140 emulsion tube and larger main jet
Uni air filter and adapter
0.020" longer arc connecting rod
Honda t3 flattop (1mm rings)
Arc 6619 billet flywheel
22lb springs
CM pushrods
Exhaust retainer with lash cap on intake
Wms fuel pump
Gx200 carb insulator with pulse
Grade 10.9 bolt kit

After Christmas I plan on installing the following parts :
Dyno mod 2 can
1.3:1 stamped rockers
Aluminum retainers and split keepers
Stock size SS valves
Hardened lash caps
14cc clone head
Head studs
0.045" fiber head gasket
22mm mikuni with long adapter,pulse, velocity stack and large filter

Does this seem like a reasonable next upgrade or am I going to have too much compression? Looking to run 93 octane . Any help is greatly appreciated!

ole4 · Nov 28, 2015

Looks like a good build to me only thing I see is you have a fuel pump is the tank blow the carb? If not it is not needed and may cause flooding.

Newoldstock · Nov 28, 2015

I question the thick head gasket choice.
Use a stock Honda gasket.

I agree skip the fuel pump.

I don't know about the dyno mod 2 cam and rockers.
I mean I literally do not know that cam or understand the logic of it.
Dyno makes the 265 with 236 duration and uses the stock style rockers so you can flip back and forth without much worry ( I would go with the Honda rockers to replace the clone parts.
I like the 18 pound springs too even if the lift is less you still have a good all around cam.
the Mod 2 is a cam designed for a lift rule limit and more duration.
Then you add the Yamaha rockers to get more lift?
Why not just go with a little more lift and duration on a core that has smaller base circles.

Also Mod 2 was designed for a kart track and not a minbike.

Tim Isky grinds cams like the Momba jr and Black momba FOR minibikes one for torque and one for more top end.
he is really the guy the ask in my opinion.

As long as your are reasonable about of lift and spring pressure all Honda parts would probably be ok, but I do like the stainless valves just because they are stronger.

I guess what I am suggesting is you could be over building a bit and use some cheaper parts.
That 14cc head will not really breath well enough without a lot of work to flow much.
MOst guys port them and although its real hard to make them flow worse, they don't get them to flow much better ( just the nature of the 14cc head and the small valves )

MDDoodleBeast · Nov 28, 2015

Newoldstock,
So you are saying instead of using the mod 2 and 1.3 rockers to go ahead and get a cam with the desired lift? The mod 2 and rockers combined are nearly identical to the price of the mamba senior, but if I then buy honda rockers and 26lb springs I will be spending an extra 27.00 for a setup with less lift. The mod 2 has a .2245 lift and with 1.3's will be around .290 lift vs. the mamba's 275. My intent is not to overbuild I just like to cover all of my bases so if you could explain the parts I could downgrade I would be much obliged. The reasoning for the thick gasket is to keep the CR low enough to run pump gas.

Newoldstock · Nov 29, 2015

I would downgrade everything in the head except valves and even then the Honda valves are pretty good too you know.

Odds are you go to a small engine shop in town and you will find a complete 18cc GX160 head, including Honda push rods.
That's good enough...
Stick with the g200 springs so you have less pressure on your valve train.

DBMonster85 · Dec 7, 2015

I will say a mod 2 with 1.3's is a killer combo I use that set up in my cruiser bike and it hits hard at 4000 and pulls hard through out. newoldstock I'm not disagreeing with what you have told him as I know you are very educated on these motors I just run that set up so I know first hand how it is. I also run the mamba sr. with 1.3's great cam too.

6.5hp Shinebox · Dec 7, 2015

MDDoodleBeast said:

I'm assuming you've ran this motor? ,....If I was you I'd buy another engine and Build it new with these parts...That's just me tho...spend all that money on a motor that's been ran just to blow it 3 hours later. Another 100 bucks won't break the bank

Newoldstock · Dec 7, 2015

Last post is not bad advice.
But the layout is sound, nothing there I would consider a bomb.

The forum is all about advice.

SO what kind of riding is probably the best question to ask?
These engines with small valves do not get as much improvement with extra lift as they do with more durration.
The heads don't flow well, so I am little skeptical of more lift than the 275 cams offer ( unless you got a really good well worked head ).
If you add the duration to make power you loss some of the low end performance.

Compression alone with a well tuned engine and some extra timing decent free flow exhaust and air filter makes a world of difference.
That is the cheapest and easiest place to start.

MDDoodleBeast · Dec 7, 2015

I appreciate the replies guys it's nice to have a few opinions. The mod 2 has a good bit of duration and with the 1.3 rockers a decent amount of lift. As far as buying a new motor I don't see it as a major concern because if something breaks I can sill salvage the majority of the parts and if it blows it blows. That's racing and I wouldn't be upset that doubling the horsepower of the engine caused it to blow. Just having a blast working on these little things. Once again I thank you for the friendly, nonaggressive advice :thumbsup:

Newoldstock · Dec 7, 2015

There are so many ways to skin a cat.
Doubling the hp of a clone is not all that hard at all.
Its just takes money lol.

In some cases if you are creative you can find performance parts in the most unlikely places.

This came off a snowblower and in the end has been the best carb I ever made and tuned for a clone

Blue clone buildup

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ole4

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DBMonster85

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6.5hp Shinebox

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